Let's Talk "Chanel"

And while we're at it, Let's make fully line a simple jacket, as well!!

In the eyes of my dolls, this post is long overdue. Over the past couple of years, I've fed them their favorite designer in dribs and drabs. A handbag here. A few belts there. But it was in that pair of shoes with the contrasting colored toes that the dollies began tapping their toes as they wait for me to make that ultimate fashion item....the classic Chanel suit. (My Barbies and their 12 inch buddies just love them some Chanel!!!)

The problem has been finding the right fabric. Technically you can use almost any fabric. The house of Chanel is like any other. It puts out a biannual ready to wear collection that bends to current trends and though iconic references like quilting, chain, the camellia flower and boucle fabrics are usually present, there are also prints, leather, satin and any or everything else may be present. The "classic suit" is also defined by a contrasting braid or trim, gold buttons....or none of this. But it is that cream colored boxy jacket worn over a slim skirt made from a nubby fabric and bordered in black trim that my girls demanded. And at long last, I found something that actually works. Admittedly, it is not the easiest fabric. It frays terribly and tends to be unstable with the grain shifting as you cut or work with it. If you are not so lucky to find a fabric like this, consider a raw silk which has tiny micro nubs.

Now, lets get to the real reason for this post. It's a tutorial on how to fully line a jacket, coat or coat dress that opens down the front but doesn't have a lapel that folds out from the neckline. The technique is simple enough, but explaining it is the hard part. I made and lined four garments all in an effort to find an easy and comprehensible way of explaining it to you. And yes, I did make several mistakes because it is easy to lose your way. But once I completely mastered it, I found it to be an incredible (and super professional) way to line simple coats and jackets. However, if you cannot make heads or tails of this post, don't fret. In the next post, I'll be going old school by sewing a lining in by hand.

For the Chanel jacket or coat, the pattern is simple. I used the basic jacket.
If you have not seen that tutorial, I invite you to take a look because, in that post, I also feature a tutorial on how to set in and sew sleeves for doll clothes. It will be important for you to understand what that looks like so that you keep that technique in mind while you work to avoid confusion.

Let's begin. Cut out your pattern pieces in both the fabric and the lining.

1. Attach the front to the back at the shoulders of the fabric. Do the same for the lining.Press the shoulders then set in your sleeves. Be sure to use a running stitch at the top of each sleeve to help you ease into the armholes of your coat.
2.  Right side to right side, lay the lining over the fabric.
3.Pin the hem of the sleeves together,  the hem of the back, and then the hem of the front, up the front edge of the front, around the neck, back down the front edge of the other front panel.
4. Stitch those areas. The side of the front, both sides of both sleeves and both sides of the back will be left open.

5. Add a second row of stitches around the neckline for reinforcement.
6. Then make tiny clips. This will help release tension and aid you when pressing the neckline later.
7. On both front pieces, clip the edges diagonally at each point. This, also helps you to obtain a nice sharp point later.

 8. Take the front panel and slip it through the side openings of the sleeve and back.

9. This front piece will be turned right side out as you slip it through the sides. You will land in between the left side of the jacket back and the far sleeve.

10-11. When you pull this through, immediately identify the sleeve you just pushed through.

12. Find the sleeve and fold in half, right side to right side and pin.

13.Pin all the way down the sleeve lining which will lead you to the fabric sleeve which will lead you to the side of the coat. You may have to maneuver part of the coat as you form this loop. But by starting with the sleeve will help you to stay on track.

 14. Now, take to the sewing machine. You will be stitching in a loop. Sewing down the under arm seam of the sleeve to the underarm seam of the lining and then down the side seam of the lining and up the side seam of the fabric.

15. When you are finished it will look like this.
16. Repeat for the other side of the jacket.

17. While you are stitching the other side, leave a 1-inch (25mm) opening in the lining.
18. When you are finished it will look like this.

19. Now for the magic. Turn your garment right side out by pulling the right side out of the opening you left in the lining.
20. At first your jacket will look like this with the sleeves still inside.
21. Carefully pull out the sleeves.
22. When you see the sleeve lining, your sleeve is completely out. Repeat for the other side.

23. My sleeve board is a pencil wrapped in a piece of cotton sock. I poke this through the sleeve to help straighten it out, then I press down the underarm sleeve with an iron. Then PRESS, PRESS, PRESS.  The one drawback to this technique is that you cannot press the side seams as you put together the jacket. So you will need to really press your seams down as well as the neckline, edges and hem. Use a moistened pressing cloth if you are not using a steam iron.
24. One more thing... slip stich the opening in the lining close.

When you have finished your jacket, the inside will be as lovely as the exterior!

For the "Chanel" coat in the previous post, I made a slight modification to the basic jacket.

I extended the center front by 1/2 inch (22 mm). I then redrew a new V-neck by making a diagonal line from the shoulder down to where I wanted my neckline to fall.

I stitched on tiny buttons to which I added a rhinestone in the middle. The loop fasteners are the same as the thread loops used for hook & eyes featured here.

For the classic "Chanel" inspired suit. Find a fabric that has an irregular or nubby finish. Be aware that these fabrics tend to fray easily and the grain does shift as well. So don't cut anything on the fold and watch your grain lines.

Again, I used the simple jacket pattern. Decide on the length you want. It's line as described above. When finished, I used a 1/8" (3mm) satin ribbon sewing along the edge of the jacket and sleeves.

My patch pocket is simply a 1 inch square (25mm) folded into itself at the edges. A little piece of black ribbon lined the top edge and is glued in the back. Ad a gold stud (or button sticker) just underneath. The skirt is a simple straight, slim skirt featured here. It is fully lined as shown here!

Want the rest of the look? For the handbags, click here. For the belts click here.  To see how we created designer shoes, click here. And of course....the shopping bags are here! Enjoy!

Next up: Easier to comprehend, but more work--hand sewn-in lining for jackets or coats with collars and lapels.


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