Doll's Eye View: Paris F/W17 Trends Part 2

Classics with a twist. Here again, we're talking about Paris fashion at its best with a plethora of classic looks to choose from. For this, part two of Fashion Week, shapes are simple, easy to wear with a few little details to set the style apart from all others. The pictures largely speak for themselves.

Red Alert

The story here is top to toe RED! The girls LOVED these red on red which start with the outfit and is extended down to the toes in matching accessories. Again, silhouettes are simple. It's the monochromatic color scheme that sets this look apart.

I really pushed the red by using my red-headed doll, Brie for this look. This is a classic fitted jacket (I used the sheath dress pattern as the base of Brie's coat). It's worn over a simple, red turtle neck top and a slim pair of stovepipe pants. Over the pant legs, I've attached tubes of red vinyl to finish off the look. However, feel free to choose the coat and pants of your choice. By sticking to a single color...you've got the essence of Riccardo Tisci's final collection for the house of Givenchy.

Autumn Promenade

When it comes to a color palette for Fall/Winter, it's these subtle, slightly greyed tones that give garments a rich urban look. Worth pointing out... shoulders, though not huge, are broader than usual, outer wear is swash-buckling, long, trousers are ample and capes are in! An accessory note: legs are always covered with colored stockings and boots!

Checkered Past

Classic plaids and checks also take center stage for big city wear. There's nothing complicated about  any of these silhouettes. All have been created with basic patterns. In this case, it's the fabric that makes the style. When shopping for fabric, be sure to seek out mini-checks or scaled down plaids. In fact, why not take dolly along with you to the store! Note: more stockings! (You'll want make a few pairs!)

Short Walk to Work

 What's nice about trends this season is that there is something for everybody. My younger dolls (playline Barbies and S.I.S Barbies) aren't so crazy about longer hemlines. They like their fashion short and sweet. Think about short versions of wardrobe classics like rain slickers, bolero jackets over pretty little skirts, mini trenches or coatdresses. Accessory note: over the knee boots! (Don't have the boots--make stocking shoes or spats to slip over regular shoes!)

For Kathy's dolly version of this Longchamp look, I used a faux leather fabric to create the circle skirt because it's thin enough to fall like the human version. (It's a full circle with only one seam.) Her bolero jacket was made from a few small scraps of rabbit (from old mittens). I used the basic coat sloper cut down to waist length for the jacket. The pattern is simple--front, back, and sleeve--with a thin strip of leather folded over and sewn along the edges.



Jackie Oh!!!

With trends resuscitating so many classic looks, it stands to reason that designers would look back at the early 1960's for ideas reminiscent of the Jackie Kennedy era. The shift dress, tent coats and chunky suits with below the knee skirts all fall under the influence!

Clean Break

Winter white remains a strong trend. Hemlines are longer, falling from just below the knee to mid-calf. The girls love these simple looks with "couture" detailing--fringed hemlines, incorporated scarves, tailored jackets and dresses with a bit of draping. And everything takes on a more "high fashion" allure when cut in white!

I'll be honest. I was so fascinated by what I thought was simple dress "with a twist." But simple is rarely easy! This took a good chunk of time, several tries and a bit of fabric just to figure out how the dress might be constructed.  Essentially, this is a wrap dress. One side lays over the other. On (our) right, the pattern is a simple double breasted shift that is tacked to the seam on the opposite side of the body. The left front has extra fabric that swings out from the center front then is draped into soft folds that extend around the body and is caught in the center back seam. I used a bit of hammered wire as a belt to clip around the body. I am very happy with the final result!

Jardin d'Hiver

The girls love the florals showing up for Fall. In this case, we're looking at hand painted floral printed satin and screen printed silk and even Chinese brocades used in simple silhouettes.

Jourdan liked the idea of a cotton shirt worn over brocade pants, an idea with Caribbean roots. I started out with a simple oversized shirt and could have stopped there. But it was not dramatic enough for Jourdan so I stitched another piece of the same cotton around the neck and down the front of the shirt to the waist. It then wraps around and ties in the back. The off the shoulder look is created simply by pushing the skirt off one shoulder and closing the shirt near the bust with a snap. What's nice is that even without styling the doll like this, the shirt still looks when worn normally.

Ruffled!

One of the main characteristics of French fashion, is that is has a distinctly feminine look. Frankly, you can't get more girly than ruffles! This season, we see heavy doses of them over tops, cascading down the front or down from waists on dresses, blouses and jackets.

This dress has so many elements in the same design, if not handled well, it could result in "everything & the kitchen sink" look. But it works because of the choice of color and fabric. When choosing a look like this, the trick is to do it in a monochromatic tone. In the original dress, the ruffles are cut on the bias and cascade down from the waist and around the hem. But on the doll, the same ruffle will not fall into soft flounces especially since I used taffeta. To give the illusion of the skirt falling into graceful curves, I had to cheat. I made a wrap skirt then tacked triangles shaped into cones around the edge. On top is an "apron" with smaller strips of fabric shaped into folds and attached to a cummerbund that closes in the back. Should I make this dress again, I'll trim it with classic ruffles.

New Age Princess

These are pretty little looks for a sweet, precious look. These are easy to make: a 2 pc dress with flared skirt, a fitted sheath made from lace, a velvet fitted dress with pirate sleeves worn with or without pants.

Frankly, I was amazed at how easy it was to make this dress using stretch velvet! Giselle's dress was made using the knit dress foundation. I scooped out the front but not as wide as the original dress because I was afraid of it falling off the doll's shoulders and...Giselle didn't want to be so "naked!" The insert is a bit of tulle, folded over and tacked to the lower part of her decollete. As far as the sleeves are concerned...I found a shortcut which I'll share with you in an upcoming tutorial on fancy sleeves.

There was no category for Samantha's Chanel inspired outfit. However, she insisted that we could not do a report on Paris Fashion Week without something from this fashion house, which this season, sent out a collection with a theme based on commercial space travel! It's a wrap skirt and a raglan sleeve double breasted hip length jacket made with silver metallic leather scraps and the wrong side of...sweat socks!

Last stop on the Fashion Month train.....New York! All Abroad!!!!

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