Fashion Doll Stylist: December 2020

Me and the girls had really looked forward to returning to Paris this autumn. After two years of closing down for expansion and renovation, the City of Paris Fashion Museum (aka Palais Galliera) finally opened its doors to a glorious exhibition, “Chanel: Manifesto de la Mode." Unfortunately Covid hit and the French borders closed. The show still opened in October, but without the usual large throngs of American and Asian tourists. But scarcely a month later, the museum was once again closed due to a new set of lockdowns and curfews. And that’s really unfortunate because the show, which looks at the work of Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel, is a wonderful tribute to the woman behind one of France’s most celebrated fashion icons of the 20th century.

I, personally, was not able to see this show. But a crew of dolls who remain in Paris…upon learning there was an exhibition featuring the work of Chanel— called on some of their contacts and voila! They were able to see the show and then filed this report. I should point out to you, though. They got all dressed up in the Chanel inspired outfits I've made for them over the years. These were not those designs by Mademoiselle herself, but rather, her very successful successor, the late Karl Lagerfeld! Nonetheless, for those of you who love Chanel (and what fashionista doesn't), this exhibition is an enlightening insight to the woman behind the famous brand.

Portrait of Chanel by Horst P. Horst (1937)

“Genius is the ability to foresee the future,” Coco Chanel often said. But even Mademoiselle, as she was often called, could never have imagined that 50 years after her death her name would be the worldwide symbol of chic. One of the best known fashion names of all times, Chanel is unique. It is the only house that has remained faithful to the spirit of its namesake without compromising the original image. Suites, bags, watches marked with golden intertwining double C’s, perfume inscribed with the number five—all have remained on the hit parade of best selling luxury items around the world for nearly a century.

Chanel focused her efforts on the world of high fashion and introduced comfort, ease and practicality in clothes…concepts totally foreign to fashion at that time. She first opened a millinery shop, but set her sights on something bigger within a few short years. With the help of a wealthy boyfriend, she went from hats to dresses in Paris but closed it at the onset of World War I. She reopened after the war and by 1928, launched her couture house at 31, rue Cambon (which still stands and serves as the Parisian flagship). She rose to become a major force in fashion until the onset of World War II. Her success was based on the simple observation that what she liked for herself would appeal to other women. Involved in a scandal with a German soldier during the war, she retreated to Switzerland in exhile and did not reappear on the fashion scene until 1954. Then at the age of 71, she made the bold decision to reopen her fashion house. She was greeted with hecklers who insisted she was out of touch with modern times and would never success. But once again, she regained her throne in fashion after her lady like dresses and boxy suits became best sellers, particularly in the United States. She died in January 1971 and with the arrival of (the late) Karl Lagerfeld, the notoriety of the brand was revived and lives on today.

The exhibition which is scheduled to reopen on January 6 through March 14, 2021, is comprised of 350 garments divided into ten themes, each with a different portrait of Gabrielle Chanel.

It sprawls over an exhibition space measuring 4500 square feet over two floors of the newly renovated Palais Galliera. It is largely chronological, recounting Chanel’s early beginnings with emblematic pieces like her sailor blouse in jersey (1916). From there, it tells the story of her little black dresses and then explodes on a glamorous note with her own renditions of the Roaring Twenties’ flapper girls.

The second part of the exhibition is most familiar to modern fashionistas: Chanel’s braided tweed suits, the two-toned shoes, the quilted handbag, the costume jewelry and pearls which round out her iconic signature. The extreme simplicity of her suit was a manifesto of Chanel’s vision of the modern woman. Every aspect of its construction was designed to respect the female anatomy with a perfect balance of the silhouette and a concept of elegance. The jacket was made so soft and light, it felt more like a cardigan. Instead of nipping the waist, the skirt rested on the top of the hips, angled slightly backwards. It was comfortable, mobile and allowed complete freedom of movement.

Chanel saw accessories as an essential element of a harmonious silhouette. They supported her vision of fashion. Launched in February 1955, the “Chanel handbag” is recognizable by its shape, the flap with its twist lock clasp, but most of all, the quilting. The shoulder strap is a jewelry chain or chain threaded with leather to prevent the metal clinking, allows the bag to be carried in the hand or slung over the shoulder. Joining the Chanel bag as a must-have accessory is the Chanel pump. In 1957, the two-tone sling back shoe added the finishing touch. The original shoe was beige and black and the perfect marriage of function and form. The beige leather gives the illusion of lengthening the leg while the black toe protects against traces of the weather. The asymmetrical strap and the moderate height of the heel were designed for comfort and freedom of movement.

This exhibition is an invitation to discover a universe and a style that are truly timeless. For your fashion pleasure....The following link takes you behind the scenes at the museum for a close and personal look at this exhibition.