Thursday, May 23, 2019

String Theory


In the previous post, we showed you how the addition of bows was a simple and easy way to transform a simple garment into a spectacular evening look. As we approach summer, some of my girls just want a simple little party dress with a sexy edge. For this project, you will need your knit dress slopers, some 2-way stretch fabric and a little bit of string.

I have chosen the jersey/knit sloper and fabric that stretches in two directions so the dolls can get in and out of dress with little problem. This also makes it easy to design the type of neckline you want without the complications of darts. 

1. Here we take the sloper and draw in the neckline. I would recommend you put your pattern up to the doll to get a good idea as to where your neckline will ultimately fall on her body. 
2. You need to do this with both the front and back slopers. After you have drawn in the front neckline, place the back sloper over it and draw in the back neckline. Pay special attention as to how the two slopers will meet at the side.
3. Add the seam allowance.
4. Lay the front against the back to make sure the side seams line up and that there is a smooth transition from front to back.
5. For the one shouldered dress I made for this post, I drew in the neckline.
6. Then I decided the front and back neckline would be the same. From here, you only need to add on the seam allowance. 

Except for the one shouldered dress and the gown, all of my other dresses share the same scooped back as the strapless dress pictured above as #3.

Though very basic in the front, the back of Kym’s dress is pretty fancy.

1. I started out by putting together the dress and turning down the edges.
2. I use embroidery yarn (for the “spaghetti straps) and a needle with a very large eye. Since the embroidery yarn is comprised of several threads, you should wet the edge, press it flat then carefully thread the needle. Knot only one side (do not double the yarn), for this dress.
3. I put the needle through the underside of one shoulder, then wrap it diagonally across the back to the opposite underarm seam. Continue crossing the back, up and down until ou have the number of “straps” you want. To help me with my spacing, I marked the area with pins. You can also use pencil. When you have finished, pull your needle through to the back and knot the thread then cut.
4. On the opposite shoulder, you will start the same way except...as you cross the rows of “straps” weave the needle in and out (lattice style). Again, when you have finished, pull the needle through to the underside of the neckline edge, then knot the thread and clip. 

Super simple in the front. Party in the back!

For daytime, you can do something a little more simple but just as stunning. For the next project, I started with a easy slip dress.

1-2. Turn down the neckline edges. Take your needle, thread it then knot both ends together. Slide the needle upwards through the point from the underside and pull it through.
3. Wrap the “strap” over the doll diagonally to the opposite side at the back.
4. Your needle should go over the edge from front to back.
5. Wrap the thread around the needle and pull the needle through this loop to form a knot. Then cut. Repeat on the other side except, wrap the “strap” around the shoulder and join it to where the other “straps” are attached to the dress. 


To give my one-shouldered dress, a bit of an edge, I worked the yarn from the high point down a ways over the arm cap. 

Of course, I had a little fun with the accessories. Her arm piece is a small, rectangular piece of of leather. I punched holes down each side then weaved through narrow strips of leather. 

Have fun with this project. My girls love black but you might try this with interesting prints as well. 
1. Zoe’s dress is a strapless sheath with cream colored straps radiating over each side of the shoulders. I knotted a single edge and worked from front to back.

2. Wrap the strap around the shoulders and sew onto the edge. Without cutting, return the needle to the front edge. 
3. Keep on until you have the look you are going for. 
4. I started to paint spots onto the “straps” but decided against it since I accessorized the dress with matching gloves and besides, the cream toned straps matches her boots.

You don’t have to think only about wrapping your straps around the doll’s shoulders. You can use the string to fill in areas—or hold elements of the garment together.

Case in point.... Sybille’s dress is a strapless sheath gown. It was cut all in one piece. I simply cut the fabric away in the front to expose her midriff and a smaller area over the top of her thighs. The back of her gown is all in one piece. Though I have added “straps” over each shoulder, the use of the string on this dress is purely decorative! 

Though the focus of this project is to use string to embellish the design, you can swap out the string in favor of ribbon or even chain!

Radiah’s dress is made of stretch lame. It hangs from a silver wire necklace and has streams of silver chain down her back.

1. To start, I used the basic sloper but shaped the front of the dress into a point at the throat. Turn the edges under. 
2. Shape a bit of wire (enough to wrap around her neck plus about 3/4” (150mm). Turn the edges into loops. One side the loop should be closed, the other should be left open. Add a jump ring to the closed loop.
3. Wrap the top edge of the dress around the center front of this neck ring. Pin in place until you get the placement just right, then stitch.
4. Here is what the back looks like right now when the necklace is closed. 
5. Measure out three lengths of chain—enough to reach the base of the doll’s neck to the top of the back neckline. Attach each chain to another jump ring at the top. Add smaller jump rings to the end of each chain.
6. Attach the top jump ring to the jump ring of the necklace. One by one, sew the lower rings of each chain to three points on the dress back.

Have fun with this project. You can add contrasting colors of string, jewelry string threaded with beads or clusters of string over strategically placed holes around the body!

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Thursday, May 9, 2019

Take a Bow

Tis the season for weddings, prom dresses, debutante balls concours d'elegance. Whatever your doll plans on attending, she is going to want new dress for the occasion. One of the oldest staples of high fashion design is the bow. Flirty, coquettish, girly, super-feminine, the bow is a design element that goes back to the 17th century French courts and has survived the test of time. Admittedly, I've always hated bows that wrap women like gift packages or bows tacked onto a dress as an afterthought. But not all bows are created equally. There are bows and there are.....BOWS! 

First, let's start out by making a beautifully tied bow so that you don't have to go out and buy them!

1. No matter the length of ribbon, find the center and form two evenly sized loops.
2. Cross the right loop over the left one.
3. Fold the right loop behind the left then thread it through the hold that is formed in the center.
4. Pull both loops tight into a knot.
5. Adjust the length of each loop.

You can use anything you want.... store bought ribbon or fabric cut into strips. Quite naturally, commercially produced ribbon is sleeker, more finished while fabric strips can be more uneven, rough cut, unpredictable. Be it velvet, silk, satin, taffeta, grosgrain or sheer, it all depends on the look you want to achieve. I suggest you experiment....that's how original designs are born!

Okay, so now that you've decided to participate in this design project, how do you go about designing something? Making drawings is one way but you can "sketch" in a 3-D sort of way.
I made bunch of these little bows, then laid down the doll and arranged the bows around her body. This is a instant way to get ideas. Take photos to document each "look." You can even take an existing dress or fabric and arrange the bows around it to make a brand new look!
Bows come in all sizes. Large ones can be used to create the style of the dress. If you want lots of volume for a train, for example, cut a length of fabric necessary for the length you want times three, then trim one third of the center down to the width of about 1-1/2" (4 cm). It will resemble a giant bow tie before it's knotted.

1. Fold into loops. They should be uneven.
2. Pinch in the middle and stitch to the dress.
3. You can add it off-center to the front of the gown.
4. Or, you can create a bow and add to the back of the gown. In this case, the bow can be the train.

Let's begin with something quick and easy. 
You don't have to make a new dress for this project. Take something you already have on hand and let's do something very simple. Adrianna's 1-shouldered gown gets a new look with the addition of a ribbon tied into a simple bow attached to the shoulder. A bow added at this point gives the illusion that the drapes radiate from the knot of the box. While you could actually tie the dress with the ribbon at the shoulder, it is easier to control the movement of the bow by creating the bow first then stitching onto the dress.

In this case, the dress and bow were created as a unit. I started with an evening length version of the strapless sheath gown. I added a bit of pleated fabric around the top of the dress. Then I created a long tube from the brocade fabric used for Lynn's gown. In this instance, the bow is transformed into a train that trails from the low back of the dress to the floor. In the following case, we are not going to tie a bow because the knot would add too much bulk.
1. I cut a length of fabric equal to the length measured from just above the waist to the floor, times 2 1/2. Fold in half and stitch all around the stitched edges leaving an opening a couple of inches so you can turn everything right side out. (Then stitch that opening closed by hand.) You can iron this flat, but I wanted a puffy effect, so I left it unpressed. 
2. Find the center point and form two loops. 
3. Pinch this in the middle (but do not tie).
4. Take another small length of fabric and wrap it around the midpoint of the bow and stitch down or tie at the back.
5. Once finished, this is attached to the back neckline of your dress.

The result has a 1960's (Jackie Kennedy) elegance!

You can place bows almost anywhere on a dress. Look at Vanessa's one-shouldered sheath. Here we've used a sheer ribbon with wired edges. This type of ribbon allows you to control the movement and perceived volume of the bow. This is ideal for creating a "fluffy" note to your dress.
1. Take a length of ribbon and form two sets of loops. Pinch this in the middle.
2. Tack this onto the dress. Create a belt by wrapping another length of ribbon around the center. 
3. You can tack this onto the dress as well, leaving it loose at both center back points of the dress so that it can still be tied at the back. You can leave this as is.
4. I wanted to pick up the lavender of the embroidered design of the dress, so I added a silk flower bloom at the center of the bow.

The possibilities are really limitless. Case in point....let's do a modern version of Marie Antoinette's bustle dress by added giant bows at the sides of simple sheath.

As you can see, this is a very basic dress. I wanted to add contrasting ribbon. I imagined adding giant bows to either side. And to balance the bows, I also decided to add a small strip of the same color around the neckline of the dress. The fabric I used for my bows here is a sturdy silk faille.

1. As I have done in the last two styles, I begin by creating an uneven bow. This one is really two separate strips formed into bows held together with a small ribbon. You will notice that the edges of my fabric has frayed. I decided not to hem it, but instead, to let the frayed edges add to the design.
2. Tack onto each side of the dress. Fold and tack the loops down so they are flopping down. You can adjust how the bows position themselves on the dress simply by tacking down the loops down at various points if necessary.
And here is the result. I decided it had the look I was going for. However, you can put more volume in the back with a third set of bows!


But let's go back to my photo "sketches" at the top of this post. Giselle's dress is a strapless taffeta gown. I made lots of sheer small bows which I stitched all around in various directions over the top neckline of her dress.

 I added a few more small bows at the back and one larger bow to the left side.

Same concept, different fabric, color and texture for a very different look.
This started with a dress my dolls didn't like. This is from an early period where I used the wrong fabric for the wrong look. Instead of tossing it away cutting it up into something else, I tapered the silhouette of the dress and added black satin bows (made from inexpensive, commercially bought ribbon) all around the neckline. Bows are such a great way to spruce of an old dress!


Have a good time with this project. Play around with different types of ribbon; make different sizes of bows. Pile it on or make a statement! Here's how we made the dress on the cover.
Again, I started off with a flared strapless dress cut from ivory taffeta. I made  two large bows by creating loops and tying in the center with a long stretch of 1/2" (1cm) ribbon. This bow was turned sideways and tacked onto the back of the dress.
I made a bunch of tiny bows. Then, one by one, added them to one side of the dress until I felt it was enough.
Here's what the result looks like from all four angles.
With or without the black evening gloves, what could be more elegant! 

Before we wrap up this post, let's have one last bit of fun. This is for when you have a doll or two that needs a fun party dress and you don't have much time.

If you're like me, you've been saving all of those fancy bows that come with well dressed gift packages. 

Take a ready-made bow....like one of those fancy satiny bows from a beautifully gift wrapped package, along with a simple, mini-dress foundation. I've used a sheer foundation. But I think a satin foundation matching the ribbon would allow for the bow to be better incorporated into the total look.
Position the bow so that the center of the bow falls at the waist of the doll. Move the loops around the doll and tack in place. I've pinned this to the foundation first. Before you tack it down with needle and thread, move the loops around until you achieve just the right effect. 

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Monday, April 29, 2019

Dolls Eye View: Paris F/W '19 Trends: Part II

Strap on those seat belts, me and the girls have gone a little bit off the beaten path!!! Paris is not only about about beauty and the woman, it's also about creative experimentation.

Gender Bender
In the 1960's it was called "Unisex," a single look worn by men and women alike. By the 1980's when Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakuba arrived on scene, the same man/woman concept was translated into a more exotic, "cerebral" look and tagged "androgynous." Fast forward to today...we're in a "fluid" wave where men and women swap styles depending on the moment and the mood. Look for silhouettes that have the structure of a man's suit jacket mixed with the fluid lines of a dress. What's interesting here is that you can make a few changes that can adapt to both the girls and the dude dolls!
For example, take a look at this Alexander McQueen suit. We see both the masculine and feminine elements in the same garment. On the left is Zoe in her version of this suit. On the left is Kim. We kept most of the main features but took a few liberties with the collar the taffeta drape on the front. Kim's suit can be worn with or without a shirt.

Aliens Amongst Us
This is not the wildest of the catwalk circus. Just a few things that actually work when you remove most of the hi-jinks!!! The proportions are a little bit off, layering is quirky and the mix of fabrics and patterns, a wee bit....bohemian. Think of it as "Fun with Fashion that break all rules. But before you close the door on this....here's a hint: change the proportions and the accessories for some really nice (and wearable) clothes!
Essentially Natasha is wearing a traditional evening dress with an asymmetrical hemline showing off a flash of thigh. (I made this quickly by crushing a bit of taffeta and tacking in place.) What sets this look into the new millennium is her metallic tights and, in Natasha's case, her aluminum foil head gear! Take away all the tinsel....you got a classic red carpet gown!

Panting for More

In the last report, I said that you will need to make at least a new jacket for your doll to keep her in style for next Fall. Add a pair of trousers to that list as well! Pants come in all sizes and shapes. The skinnies are still around, but you should set your sights to wider trousers and even perhaps...a pair of bell bottoms. One thing to note: from top to bottom, it's a total (polished) look.

Royal Flush

This is a color story. Peaking out from all of the greys, blacks and assorted neutrals is a pop of color, from time to time. In Paris we noticed quite a few looks drenched in royal blue! You have a wide range of fabrics--from knits to velvet and silk!

Carmelia couldn't resist this pantsuit. We made it out of jersey. A flutter of bias cut ruffles flutters around and down her one shouldered top which is belted over a pair of straight cut pants. Though you could make this as a jumpsuit, I decided it would be easier and faster to make it in two pieces (top plus pants with belt). The flounces on Camelia's version, by the way, were created by cutting circles which are slashed, stretched then applied to the shoulder line.

Autumn Leaves
There's another color palette in store for next fall. Its inspiration comes from nature itself. Think autumn leaves after the first frost when the trees are ablaze in rich colors of the season. These warm and inviting tones are absorbed all day long straight into evening wear. 

Animal Instincts
Animal prints are the new neutrals so each season we are likely so see clothes with fabric inspired by our feline friends. And there are many ways to wear these ferocious patterns and prints. When fabric shopping, look for metallics embossed with scales, abstract versions of spotted cats. Whether slightly over sized or right on the mark, there is no wrong way to wear them!
For Jourdan we made a micro-mini wrap dress worn and tossed a tuxedo blazer over her shoulders. Her thigh high boots give her a touch of bad girl glam.
Don't be limited to using only one print per garment. Feel free to mix and match and put together unexpected combinations of patterns. Here, Chrystele has fun with a lace trimmed leopard printed poncho tossed over the shoulders of a glitzy sheath dress.
Because we don't see the actual dress underneath the poncho, I took the liberty to make my own design. Since I liked the idea of something bling-bling that would contrast the spotted poncho, I chose a width of 4-inch (10cm) trim which I use on the wrong side! Here's a closeup of the bronze/blue dress Chrystele is wearing underneath. The necklace and the embroidered Barbie boots give it a luxurious tropical vibe.

She's on Her "A-Game"
Fit and flare...a throwback to the 1950's and early 60's silhouettes, is welcomed back this year. This time around you'll find this classic look cut from all sorts of materials from leather and wool to silk.
Here's another Dior. This time it's a dress that takes its que from an old fashioned school girl. Margot's dress is really in three parts. The "sweater" is a funnel neck top cut from a thin 2-way stretch knit. The dress itself is really in two parts--a corset top and a full, gathered skirt belted over everything. Most wools are too thick for this silhouette. So here, I used silk which has the look of herringbone but falls more fluid over Margot's body!  


Goddess
Tall, statuesque, this is the simplest way to go for the glam in a season where everything is pared down to the essentials.
.
Ruffled!
Of course, there are exceptions. Take these girly-girl ruffled dresses, for example. Like a whipped creamed filled creme puff it floats over dolly's body like a cloud. We do, however, like the idea of pairing ruffles with more sober silhouettes that allow a whisper of delicious curves drift beyond its borders. 

The girls went in search for Toni Maticevski who normally shows during Paris Fashion Week. We didn't see him on Vogue's roundup, so we headed to his website to see what he had been up to. I don't know if he has dropped out of the "fashion week rat race" to do his own thing. But we did find lots of new things to love including this dress. For Sybille's dress we used a fine grade of wedding tulle, cut into irregular squares which are attached to a strapless sheath foundation. As you can see...Sybille's dress is more "perky." We thought of dipping the dress in hot water to calm things down, but then decided to leave the dress in its fairy-tale like dimensions.

In Memory of Mr. Karl Lagerfeld

The Fall/Winter 2019 Chanel collection is the last creative endeavor of this industry icon. We don't know what the future brings for Chanel without Karl Lagerfeld's watchful eye, but we are thankful for the 35 wonderful years of incredible fashion he brought to the catwalk. Dorian, my FR model who normally gets first pick of our Dolly Chanel creations, insisted I make one more garment from this season which is pictured above.



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