Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Applied Arts: Beading Basics 101


I take suggestions for projects seriously, so when Kamelia left a comment saying "maybe you'll make a beaded dress some day," I decided to delve into the subject matter especially in light of all the beaded dresses we saw during Haute Couture week. Disclaimer: I am NOT an expert in this field. Years ago I did a weekend workshop held by Elisabeth Roulleau, who studied at the world famous school of Lesage. She is a professional, skilled in Luneville embroidery (otherwise known as Tambour embroidery). I should have taken a basic course in English embroidery first. Beading was very challenging and I was a slow learner. Luneville or Tambour embroidery entails using a minuscule crochet hook and a frame over which fabric is held taunt. The "hook" is pushed up through the underside of the fabric catching a line of stranded beads you hold with your other hand on top. Essentially it is a form of crocheting the beads or sequins to the fabric--a method used by the world famous embroiderer, "Lesage." When completed, the back of the fabric is as beautiful as the exterior. That is NOT what I'm doing here today. Instead, I am taking on a somewhat easier method--needle embroidery. Though it is easier, it is still challenging and time intensive. But like anything else---it takes practice.

A while ago, I did a post on "faux embroidery" and another on clever ways to use beaded fabric where I carefully cut out lace medallions and stitched them onto an existing dress as a way of creating the illusion of luxury embellishment. I still hold fast to that idea because it is a quick and easy way of getting the look--especially for beginners just getting used to needle and thread. Beaded embroidery of any variety is an art. And like other forms of art, mastering it requires.....TIME and PATIENCE!!! Two things I'm usually short of! This project took me FOREVER! It takes a lot of thought and planning! And should you miscalculate--let's say the beading on a sleeve is too thick, for example.....well, you've just lost another day! I made many mistakes. It took me awhile to control the stitches. There are many imperfections here. But the good news.....beads are beautiful The mistakes are also beautiful! 


SUPPLIES
It's not about needle and thread and handful of plastic beads. What you put into this project is what you reap! Everything must be to scale which makes this all the more challenging.

1. There are different types and sizes of beads. Pictured here are "tubes," the long narrow beads usually sold on strands. 
2. Seed beads are sold in packets, small tubes or containers. They come in different sizes. The larger the number the smaller the bead. These silver beads are size 11 which I have found to be the largest bead you will want for doll clothes. And even then--you will want to go lighthanded because this is large for a 1/6 scale dress.
3. Beads also come in strands like these (size 11/0) red beads. You will want to buy decent looking glass beads for the best results. 
4. These black beads are size 13/0 which, I feel is a perfect scale for the doll. My craft store had beads as tiny as 15/0. I did not buy those because you will need to also find needles and thread fine enough to thread them! 
5. Thread is another important factor. As you will notice next to it, beading needles are not only fine, they have very tiny eyes. Most thread is way to thick. Experts recommend nylon or silk thread. Pictured here is a spool of silk thread which threads into my needle without any problem. But silk thread comes at a cost! Though it's not on the recommended list, I discovered that "invisible" or "transparent" thread is also a good choice. It's hard to see and even harder to knot, but it threads like a dream and solves the other issue which is---the thread should perfectly match the bead!
6. You'll need to go to a crafts store to find beading needles. The needle to the left is a #9 embroidery needle which is a little easier to find. Though it looks quite thin, you will soon discover those tiny 13/0 beads won't pass over the eye! Still, for the larger beads (#11/0) it works. What doesn't work--sharps!!
7. The embroidery needles are super thin and bend easily. Forget about using a needle threader. You need magnifying glasses, also recommended while beading. The beading needle here is size #12 (the thinnest my craft store carries) which I used for the 13/0 beads used to create the black beaded flon the black lace top below.
8. Again. Thread is important. Pictured here is "transparent" thread. I used both the silk and this one. Silk thread has more tooth, but transparent thread is way less expensive. This is where I felt I could honestly cut back a little.
Do you really need an embroidery hoop? It depends. They are ideal in that they keep the fabric taunt which makes it easy to control the execution and tension of your stitches. When I used a heavy lace as the base, I was able to add the beads without problem. On the other hand, if the fabric or lace is fine, you really need a hoop to keep the stitches from "shrinking the fabric" as you embroider. 

Let's Get Started
This is how you always begin.
1. Use a double thread for strength, knotted at the end. 
2. On the underside push the needle through to the right side.
3. Very close that point, push the needle back down to the under side.
4. Bring back up to the front and knot.

A Stitch in Time
So that you can see these techniques best, I'm using much larger beads, needle and thread than are normally employed. 

The Beaded Backstitch
What is interesting about this stitch is that I learned you don't have to sew beads on one by one. You sew them down in clusters, only tacking down a few at a time. With this stitch, you decide where the end point is going to be and then you go back and tack the last two or three beads. Don't sew from side to side, but rather, up and down though the fabric (like a sewing machine), trying to keep the needle as straight as possible.
1. Start out by knotting and securing the thread as we just showed you. Then bring the needle up to the right side of the fabric. Load on your beads (3-6 at a time is ideal). Lay the line of beads down and insert the point of the needle at the end of the line and push through to the back.
2. When you pull the thread through, it looks like this.
3. Bring the needle straight back up with the point coming in between the last two beads of the line.
4. Slide the needle through those two beads.
5. Reload by adding more beads and repeat the process until you have arrived at the length and look you are going for. Push the needle straight down after the last bead and knot on the underside.

This is a great basic stitch for almost everything!

The Loop
This starts out the same as the previous technique but the endpoint is the same as the start point of the beads.
1. Start out the same as you did before with the thread knotted and secured. Load enough beads on to form a circle.
2. Insert the point of the needle at your original start point (at the base of the first bead). 
3. And push the needle straight down. A loop is formed.
4. Bring your needle back up with the point positioned in between the third and forth bead. Tack the thread down with a tiny stitch. Repeat. Position the needle point between the sixth and seventh bead, etc.

This is a great stitch for making simple designs with a bead in the middle like the lace tent dress below.
1. I sewed on a pearl in the middle of the lace flower.
2. After securing the thread with a knot, I loaded my needle with enough small beads to encircle the pear.
3. You can secure the loop by either tacking down the thread in between every two beads using the backstitch method.
4. Or you can tack down the thread in between every two stitches with tiny whip
stitches. 
The end result is subtle, quite pretty and achievable for even the least experienced seamstress!

Fringe
Nowt his is really a lot of fun. Each strand you create can be as long as you want. But a note here: the longer the strand, the more adjusting you will do to work out the lag in the thread.
1. Start off the way you did when you were doing the backstitch. Bring your knotted thread to the right side and load up your needle. You can add whatever number of beads you want for the dimension of fringe you wish to create.
2. This time you will not be stitching the end down. Instead, leave the last bead free and push your needle through the remaining beads and back out of the first one. 
3. Pull the thread up so there is no slack and the base of the beads are lined up next to the origin of the stitch.
4. Push the needle through to the back and secure. You now have a free swinging fringe.


Crouching
When you stitched down the thread in between beads--that's called "crouching." Using this method, you are basically sewing strands of beads in place. Another interesting (and basic) method of applying beads to a pattern or design. Seed beads often come in strands which most likely won't be the exact length as needed. So you will need to get the beads off the strands without scattering them everywhere. 

1. Carefully remove a strand from the shank of beads. Find both ends and simply pull them away from the rest. Hold on tightly.
2. Tie a knot around one end of a single bead. This will stop the others from sliding away. Keep the other end open.
3. Take your threaded (and knotted) needle and slide it in the middle of the threaded beads. Push the beads onto the needle with your finger and then down onto your thread until you have your desired length.
4. Slide the thread of the strand away. Knot your new strand when you have arrived at the desired length.

1. Position your beads on top of your pattern. I used a regular sized pin to hold in place. But this may get adjusted as I work to conform to my pattern.
2. Separate the beads every 3 or so beads and make a tiny whip stitch around the thread to hold in place.
3. This is my result. 
4. Here are the four techniques I used today.
I had a little fun with Christmas ribbon to create my "Oscar" dress. The lines on the dress are made using the back stitch method with beads that match the gold edges of the ribbon.  There is a touch of fringe on one side of the dress. Going down the center of the sleeve are both the back stitch and the loops. The collar came about as the result of a fail. I had originally beaded  piece to be used on a sleeve. This took me the better part of a day to embroidery the lines of beads you see here. But the beading was so heavy and thick, the doll appeared as though she were wearing a beaded plaster cast! Not wanting to lose a day's work. I turned this piece on its side, wrapped it around the doll's neck and fasten it together with hook and eyes!

Take a Tip

1. Start small. The tiny embroidery in the middle of the lace medallions on that white tent dress is a perfect start. It's a way of getting a small taste of this art at minimal expense and time.

2. Designing patterns for embroidery is extremely difficult. Often, what it looks like on paper can be very different when spelled out in beads. I recommend using lace as your base then tracing around existing patterns with beads. 
It's called "re-embroidered lace." For this project, I decided to make my own beaded appliques. I cut up an old blouse and took out needle and crystal beads.
1. Knotted needled is pushed up through the lace and loaded with beads.
2-3. Using the loop method, I was about to trace the contours of the flower.  
4-5. I stitched down the beads using the crouching method.
6. After completing each motif, I knot the thread on the wrong side.

I repeated the technique, using silver beads for the middle of the flower. Here's the floral medallion before and after! I made several of these which could be used to transform existing dresses into little works of couture.
Or think about using touches of embroidery on sleeves pant legs
But them you know me.....I had to have a full dress. A lot of thought went into what I thought it should look like!
 I began with a strapless sheath made from beige lace. I was quite generous with the beads so when I put each medallion on the doll, I discovered how chunky each one was. The dress did not have a good balance with the medallions were place on top. So I chose to scatter them below the waist towards the hem. I added beads to the dress itself, tracing around the hem and around a few of the smaller motifs near the bust. I added beaded strap and a little bit of fringe to give the dress a 1920's swag.

I learned an important lesson here. The bigger the bead, the fewer you should use. Otherwise things have a way of getting very heavy which is not flattering at all. You can use heavier doses of the tiny beads 13/0-,14/0 or 15/0. But be prepared to spend more time with smaller, thinner needles!

I will probably revisit this subject again in the future, but in the meantime, if this is where your passion lie, there are many fine tutorials by folks more skilled in this art than I on YouTube,


All text and photos property of Fashion Doll Stylist. Copyright 2018. Please ask permission before reposting. And please credit us. Thank you!

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Saturday, July 14, 2018

Dolls' Eye View: Paris Haute Couture Fall '18

Haute Couture is Back!!! I had nearly given up on this form of fashion because to my style weary eyes--it had lost its direction, lost its charm and possibly, lost the precious few hundred women that make up its worldwide clientele as well. In contrast to the couture weeks that boasted 22 members and about two or three invited foreign houses from 30 years ago, today there are only a handful of real French couture houses that participate. To help fill up the week, there are "invited guests." Sadly, most of them, as well as the public, the press (and perhaps even many of the customers) have not a clue as to what all the fuss is about. French Haute Couture is governed and protected by strict laws over everything from the number of workers employed right down to the number of required private shows that must take place seasonally. But more than a set of rules, couture was always about the preservation of an art synonymous with rarefied elegance and luxury. Couture was also the vehicle designers used to work on ideas and concepts later to be adapted and developed into the ready to wear markets. Like a Lamborghini, yellow diamond, or a Stradivarius violin...Haute Couture should make you dream!

Just as I had decided to stop taking the girls to couture shows....Paris delivered up some good old fashion glamour, over-the-top, luxury, drop dead gorgeous, fab, fab fab couture gowns...just like the olden days of a decade ago!!!! As a result, I was inspired. This report is a little longer than usual. I made more dresses than usual. If you are looking to make a really special dress for dolly...NOW is the time. Here, let me give you a few ideas!!!

Salute to the Suits
Once upon a time, daywear existed in Couture. After all, we are talking about a lifestyle where madame is part of the ladies who lunch and needs something to wear on the way to her fundraisers. Currently there is very little. Still, we can always count on Karl Lagerfeld and his made to order tweed suits for Chanel! These are pretty simple. The sleeves have slits that show off elbow length gloves. While I was tempted to make one of these suits, my dolls were nudging me to concentrate my efforts on......the evening gowns!

Swing Time
There are not a lot of short dresses either this couture season. But what we saw had a lot of swing and sass to them! Think fit and flare where the bodice snugly fits the body in contrast to a gathered A-line skirt with lots of fabric.

Family Jewels
In this case, color is the main story here. Think deep, rich jewel tones when choosing fabric. Ruby, amethyst, tourmaline, sapphire, citrine...it's like squeezing the colors out of a jewelry box and onto some pretty luxurious fabrics. 
Here, Nathalie is all dressed up and on her way from the Givenchy show to the opera! She loved the contrast between the sapphire blue sequinned skirt and a simple, black velvet top....and the contrast between the super simple 2-piece ensemble and the cape with power shoulders and a train!

Fancy Pants
Here is the fanciest way to wear pants to the ball! Cut them out of velvet and wear an embroidered bolera....or cut them out of silk and team them up with a waist length velvet jacket. But our favorite is the swashbuckling silhouette of a full over skirt swirling around the legs or....a long train falling from the shoulders of an embroidered top!
Oh, there were many discussions in the house as to which one of those looks I'd make! If I listened to my girls....you'd still be waiting on this post!!  For Lynn, I settled on this pants ensemble, cut from midnight blue taffeta. It's a simple bodice with a ruffled treatment I recently featured. It's worn over stovepipe pants and a circle skirt opened in the front. Since the fabric is dark, it is pretty easy not to see the beaded embroidery on the top and the sides of the pants. 

Flights of Fancy
These are lots of classic party ballgowns in a variety of fabrics and treatments. Short and long lengths coexist in the same garment; tulle is worked in a few festive ways including ruffled tiers with sparkling edges. But what I really love is when you take a traditional couture garment and translate it into another culture.
Grace shows what happens when you mix French couture with an African print. For her dress, I used a stylized tiger stripe made of velvet. 

My Fair Lady
It could have been lifted from the black and white day at the races of the movie "My Fair Lady." Except, here, the styles have been modernized for 2018! Black and white...what could be more dramatic or elegant! Note: If the Givenchy gown looks familiar...this dress was inspired by Audrey Hepburn's (red) gown from the movie "Funny Face" filmed at the Louvre!

One-armed Bandits
One very strong trend we noticed throughout the week....one shoulder dresses executed in a number of ways. Of course there is the class silhouette sometimes with an embellishment on the sumit of the shoulder. But there we also love those dresses with a single sleeve as well.
For Margot, our newest model making her debut appearance here... nothing beats the allure, the class of Armani Couture. For her, we kept it simple..in black stretch velvet with a supersized black orchid on her shoulder!

Curls & Swirls
Not only are things swinging, silhouettes are also curling and swirling about the body. Look out for flounces, peplums and even giant swirls that form flowers or simply curve around the body.

Seeing Red
In a sea of black and grey gowns....nothing stands out from the crowd than a flash of....RED! Lace, satin, silk....embroidered or plain.....anything red is regal!
And quite naturally, my flame haired doll, Sybille begged me for this dress. Making it was easy. This is a one shouldered sheath dress cut from red lace with a circle of silk that falls asymmetrically over the hips in the back.

The Black Lace Brigade
This is the season for black lace! Stretched over the torso, lined, beaded or "re-embroidered," all forms of lace are big this season. Some looks leave the body to peak out from underneath, while others are totally lined with the lace serving to add texture.

Sheen On!
If it's not lace, it's time to shine. Here the fabric tells the whole story. Silhouettes are relatively simple with lots of flare, lots of drama. What really makes the look is fabric with a high degree of sheen. Note how many of these looks have A-line silhouettes. It's about choosing a simple pattern so that the fabric can speak for itself!
I saw this fabric in a Paris store and fell in love with its bronze sheen. You don't need anything extravagant to create such a super dress. Just a simple cut which helps deflect the light in subtle ways around the edges.
A slightly more glamorous translation of the same theme.... I used a silver ribbon for Arianna's strapless sheath dress and silver lam for the stole. But this is the perfect pattern for really fancy (and expensive) fabrics. 

Very Versailles
In the real world, a couture gown can go from $50,000 to as much as madame feels like spending depending on the embellishments. This is a million dollar theme featuring beaded fabrics and abundantly embroidered laces. You know that section of your fabric store where you wish you could make a dress? Now is the time to splurge... And here is what you do with those super precious beaded remnants!!! Hint--Keep it simple!!!!
There were two ways I handled this theme. For Jourdan's dress, I cut the bodice out of trim which I later added beads (either singular or applied motifs cut from beaded fabric). The skirt is the "typical" draped couture skirt opened over one thigh. I also used a bit of beaded trim to the opening of the skirt. Here's a hint: look for embroidered remnants, beaded trims found in vintage stores and antique fairs!
And then there was that very special sale at my favorite fabric store where I was finally able to buy a bit of beaded lace! The beaded lace in Laeticia's dress is grey. It slides over a black foundation worn underneath. To simplify execution of the dress, I used a separate grey lace trim for the sleeves. 

Yes She CANNES!
Continuing on with a glamour theme.... gowns in powdered tones swirl, float, drip down from the hips. Dolly is a movie star and her dress should be the first thing that gives that away. Think about using lots of sheer fabric--the more the better. Add spritzes of sparkles sequins, beads or feathers to give it that super-star quality. Just dream and let your doll take center stage with any of these looks!
Ingrid is wearing a bustier made of pale blue tulle molded to her torso in silver sparkle. It's worn over a matching blue skirt cut from five layers of tulle.

This dress did not fall into any category, but Nichelle fell in love with it and insisted I include it. The dress starts with a silver metallic bustier. Admittedly, I made about for of these as I tried to imitate the look of metal. I did make a  molded silver tone (oven baked clay bustier however....too thin it broke....thick enough--it added too much bulk. So I ended up using aluminum foil! The dress is made in three pieces...the top is a bodice of draped silk over a slim skirt. The front drape is added to the waistline.

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Saturday, June 30, 2018

Ken's Eye View: Fall/Winter 2018 Menswear Trends

Times are a-changing! If the recent menswear fashion weeks are of any indication...I can tell you, equivocally, a new world order is upon us. As a person who has covered fashion for decades..a person who has worn almost every trend, reported on it, taught courses and even presents under the guise of Barbie doll high style--I must admit.... for a few seasons now, I have had a difficult time finding menswear trends I could understand and recreate for my dude dolls. In my humble opinion, the men's trends tend to fall into three categories....1) totally banal, pedestrian and not worth reporting on. (When the catwalk looks just like the racks of the local stores.... why bother). 2) The circus --when designers get so caught up with the spectacle of a show while forgetting the real purpose of clothing to be worn.) And then there's that ever disappearing, tiny portion of catwalk shows offering up interesting and sometimes elegant fashions. Call me old fashioned, but I need to see interesting clothes with  few new ideas--especially in menswear. I do understand the whole gender identity thing but frankly, even my gay friends are complaining about the direction of today's men's fashion movement. After reviewing menswear collections in New York, London, Paris, Milan and Florence combined, for the Fall/Winter 2018, below you will find what I consider to be the more interesting trends of the season.

Note....three new male dolls came into the house this year. All three (Kim, Alessandro and Marc) are millenials. They're the ones with the "interesting" hairstyles!

Capetown

What could be more elegant than a man wearing a cape. We liked the simple, pure lines of this simple outer garment worn over trousers. Making the pattern for this is a snap. (It's the same as for the girls.) Click HERE to see how.
For Atsushi, I had considered making a lightweight cape using a lightweight pinstriped wool fabric. That would have resulted in a more "swashbuckling" look designed by the Italian company, Valentino. Instead I chose to use a wool coating which has more structure, appropriate for a late autumn, early winter garment. If you look closely, you can see there are vertical slits covered by plackets on each side to allow his arms to poke through.

Coat check

More regal outer wear! Coats for him are pretty classic: the standard trench, a straight overcoat. What differentiates them this Fall is length! Supple fabric and even velvet fall past the mid-calf and below lengths for a truly elegant look!

Man About Town
The young entrepreneur and the look of casual elegance. A super big, fluffy sweater over a narrow pair of trousers; the monochrome look of "Men In Black," and separates that mix velvet with tie-dye.....These are all simple silhouettes made from a basic pattern. Note the bags!
Here, Alessandro shows off the millennial take on American born John Varvatos' velvet suit. It's velvet, worn with a tie dye shirt and big scarf over super skinny, stretch jeans and walking shoes!

The Spice Trail
This is a color story. After all of the navy, black and grey, there is color for the guys. Lots of color. At times, too much color, in fact. But here is the color palette to our liking. We like to see clothes for guys taking their cue from the spicy tones of autumn. Yes, it's pretty classic.But these are styles and colors that are...easy on the eyes!
Here Marc shows off how a cool way to wear shorts (over a trendy pair of leggings). His top is cut like a varsity sweater. Personally I don't like the "girly" fabric of the original wide cut shorts. It looked too much like a skirt. So I made a pair of "cut offs" and painted them to resemble "distress" jean shorts. Worn together with the black leggings and the suede boots, it looks more "masculine" and works for my millennial guy.

Livin' Large
XXXL is back. A new generation has discovered the supersized silhouettes resuscitated from 1990's gangsta looks. This time around there is a contrast in silhouettes. Super large worn over super skinny.

The Young and The Restless
These are the dare devils of the fashion revolution. They push the boundaries of existing rules just to see what's possible. In some cases, it's a revival of past rebels (like Moschino's leather biker outfit). But by experimenting with fabric treatments (Louis Vuitton) or silhouette (Chalayan), a new generation fashions it's own signature style.
Again, I could not sink my teeth into men's shorts that resemble a woman's skirt worn over tights, so, for Lamar, I took the direction of distressed, ripped jeans. I did like the high tech aspect of the coat, but quite naturally, did not have access to the fabric. So....I took old jeans and treated it with both metallic paint stroked with pure white. After cutting out the pattern, I layered it with a polyester organza to give it a "tech" sheen.
Back in the mid-1980's with the arrival of the Japanese on the fashion scene, we were introduced to the look of androgyny. Now in 2018, androgyny is back but in a different way. It's more elaborate. It's more feminine. Still I feel, we can do this look in a way that is not totally void of masculinity. Here is Kim wearing a version of the Chalayan shirt. The original has a more rounded effect due to dropped shoulders and blouse-like sleeves. I, on the other hand, started out with a classic, straight shirt. One side is much more elongated than the other. This extension allowed me to drape that side into folds which I hand-stitched down and pressed flat to the body. The sleeves are straight , without cuffs. This shirt (which I imagine for eveningwear) is worn over narrow (but not strangled) velvet pants and boots.

Velvet Touch
Another revival of an old favorite style....the velvet suit is back. Yes there is the classic suit (as revived by Armani) but there are other, more laid back ways for men to wear velvet including what looks like a jog suit with a sport jacket and sweater (John Varvatos).
Loic reminded me that it wouldn't be a bad thing to make another velvet suit! I think he's thinking ahead to the holidays!

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