Monday, September 17, 2018

Zip It!!!

While the girls are compiling their fashion month reports, I thought I'd do a quick tutorial on zippers. In the world of doll fashion where most designers use snaps, hooks and velcro, a dress with a zipper is a luxury item. It's not that they are difficult to put them in. The problem--and expense--lies in finding doll sized zippers. Not an easy task. And when you do find them---well....even though they are 1/6 the size of a normal zipper--they certainly are not 1/6 the price! Yes, they are small, but they are ever as complex as the real thing.

I have been to fabric and notions stores everywhere looking for 1/6 zippers.  I will tell you now, you will have to order them online. For this post, I bought metal separating and metal regular zippers at I Sew For Dolls. (Located in the US, they ship fast. My order was perfect.) There are three other online sources that sell them as well. (Their websites are listed under Tutorials-Fab Favorite Resources.) Prior to buying 1/6 scale, I have to admit I've used 4"(10 cm) pant or jean zippers. They are the same length as doll size however, the teeth and zipper pulls are a bit large on the doll. The image above on the left shows the difference between human and doll zippers. On the right, the nylon zipper teeth are closer in scale, however the zipper pull is out-sized and I have yet to figure out how remove it! Nonetheless, the pant zipper is perfect for a 16" doll dress and will make do for the 12" doll inasmuch as it is sewn in the back which is out of view.

The Dress Zipper
Let's start with something simple. Whether you use a 1/6th zipper or a 4" (10cm) pant zipper, putting it in is the same.
1. Using a long, running stitch, baste the center back seam of your dress closed. No matter what happens, this ensures the zipper will line up perfectly with the center back seam of your dress.
2. Make sure the zipper is zipped shut and lay it face down against the seam of the dress. Leave a small space at the top of the dress (about 1/4" or 5mm) near the neckline.
3. Baste each side of the zipper to the corresponding side of the center back seam.
4. Working your way down one side of the back (about 1/8" (3mm) clear of the center back, stitch the zipper to the dress, using a tiny back-stitch. This is, in effect, a top stitch. (Note: You can also top-stitch using a sewing machine. Just be sure to use a zipper foot.)
5. When you get to where the zipper pull is, move it down a little then continue to stitch the zipper to the dress until you have finished. Repeat on the opposite side being care to create a line of stitches equally spaced from the center back seam.

6. You can finish the dress as you would normally. However, if you have gone through the trouble of buying zippers for your clothes, maybe you should consider putting in a lining! I've sewn my lining in as usual, leaving the space down the center back seam. I fold the lining's center back seams inward and pin so the bottom of the zipper is exposed and clear from the fabric. You want to get close to the zipper but far enough away so that the lining doesn't get caught.
7. I've hand stitched everything down. And at the top of the zipper---a hook and eye keeps it all closed and neat!

The Separating Zipper
Whereas you can probably get away with using a human sized 4" zipper to close the back of the dress, a separating zipper--that which is used for jackets--is another story! (If you attempt to use a regular zipper, the doll won't be able to get out of the jacket!) When you find a 1/6 separating zipper, it is a truly remarkable item worth the price. Fully functional and perfectly scaled, the doll jacket because a true miniature marvel. Putting this in is easy provided you remember to keep the zipper closed in the first few steps!
1. The material or fabric you use will determine the option you should chose. If you are working with a woven fabric that ravels at the edges, I would opt for the same instructions we used for the back zipper. But for this jacket, I am using python printed and stamped vinyl. Whether vinyl, plastic or leather, you don't have to worry about frayed edges but you do have to be concerned about bulk. So for this exercise, I am simply aligning the cut edge of the jacket against each side of the zipper. I pin the inside of the seams to the jacket.
2. Repeat on the other side, being careful that the two sides of the jacket line up perfectly.
3. Baste the jacket to the zipper. Check to make sure the zipper can move up and down smoothly without getting jammed.
4. If you are going to use a machine to top stitch this down, be sure to use a zipper foot. My machine is old, but your zipper foot will look similar to this. The zipper foot is more narrow than the regular one.
5. It is designed to hold the fabric/zipper down while leaving the needle free to stitch without obstructions. You can also elect to hand stitch this as we did with the dress zipper.
Waris can wear this jacket open and over a matching skirt. Or she can lend it to her girlfriend, Katoucha who wears it zipped up over pair of a silk abstract printed pair of trousers.

There are times, however, when putting in a zipper is more complicated. As an inspiration for my next project, I found a photo of a biker's jacket I wanted to make for my guys.
This was a bit of a challenge. The zipper is at a slight angle. The left lapel folds inward and the jacket zips up to the tip of the shoulder. Note how the zipper runs along one edge of the lapel but not the other. And to boot---it's all in leather!!!
This is a version of the pattern I used. Inasmuch as this is a tutorial on zippers, I decided to use a simplified version so as not to confuse you with umpteen pattern pieces. The principle for putting in the zipper, however, remains the same. The zipper is sewn into a seam on one side and is part of the lapel on the other. I cut (my) left side in two (blue line) and added seam allowance to both pieces. The zipper will lie against where you see the fuzzy green line. (The lapel folds over where you see the fold line.)
1. Using chalk, I drew in the seam allowance on the side front pattern. This provides a guide for the placement of the zipper.
2. I lightly press that line to further help me with my placement of the zipper.
3. In this instance, I open the separating zipper and place one side of it onto the side front panel. The teeth are facing inward--the seam allowance of the zipper placed along the seam of the side front jacket panel. I pin then baste the zipper onto the jacket (place pins on the seam allowance away from the stitch line). Even with lightweight leather, you will need to use a thimble.
4. My center front panel (which also has the lapel extension) goes on top and the zipper is sandwiched in the middle. I baste all three layers together using a long running titch. Basting keeps everything together as you sew the jacket together.
5. Now sew.
6. When you are finished and you turn the jacket to the right side up, the zipper teeth to the right.
6. Hammer the seams flat, being careful to avoid the zipper teeth.
7.  Turn the left front and left side front right side out.
8. Zip the two sides of the zipper shut.
9. Place the right jacket front over the zipper and pin to the seam allowance. Carefully unzip the zipper and baste in place. Again, the zipper teeth should be facing inwards, away from the front edge.
10. Place the facing over the right jacket front with the zipper sandwiched in between and sew.
11. Clip the seam allowance around the tip of the lapel. Turn right side out. Use a pin to completely turn out the lapel tip. The zipper teeth should be now pointing outward towards the center front. Hammer the lapel flat.
12. Complete the jacket.

When All Else Falls, Fake It!
I could have stopped there, but you know me. There's always one more thing I want to try. What are somewhere and those lovely doll zippers are not available. What if, your doll could care less about functionality and he (or she) simply wants the look of hardware.....
 1. I started out by removing a metal zipper from an old, very decrepit pair of my dad's jeans. You can just go out and buy one if nothing is readily available. n any case, you should use a zipper that is color coordinated to the outfit you want to sew it in. Zip up the zipper so that the teeth are closed. Measure out the length you need and make a series of stitches around that point so the zipper won't unravel after you cut it. You need to do this at both ends.
2. Pin one side to the center front edge of the jacket.
3. Sew in place. On the other side of the zipper teeth, sew or glue a strip of velcro directly onto the zipper tape.
4. Add the other half of the velcro to the inside edge of the jacket.

The jacket can't be zipped up or down. The velcro holds it closed and simply gives the LOOK of a zippered jacket while allowing the doll to get in and out of it. And why not fake the look of zippered pockets!?!

1. This time, I took a bit of the zipper but left it open.
2. I placed each piece on the jacket for placement. When I have the placement I want, I used pins to indicate the line of the pocket.
3. On the inside, I mark those pin points with pencil. And connect the dots with a cutting line.
4. Using a blade or very sharp small scissors, slice open this line.
5. Now slide in the zipper sample.
6. This is how it looks right side up.
7. Stitch along the bottom of the opening.

If you try this out for your design, keep in mind you will need to allow for the extra space the zipper will take up in the front!

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Sunday, September 2, 2018

Taking Stock (Again!)

I have been very busy NOT making clothes!!! If you have more than a couple dozen dolls, you know the problem. As your doll collection grows, so do the number of garments, shoes and accessories. At first you can control it. And maybe, like me, you build a cute little closet from one of those wonderful tutorials on Pinterest. But then the day comes where you need more storage.
A modest beginning in 2013!
In 2013 for my first tutorial, "Taking Stock," I built a lovely little closet out of balsam wood and dowels, fashioned adorable little clothes hangers out of wire. And everything out of season, I put in a box and placed on a shelf in the basement. And then chain migration began.....

More dolls meant more clothes, more shoes, handbags, lingerie, bathing suits, stockings, hats, jewelry and.... boyfriends!!! I found an old drawer which I converted into a closet for the guys by standing it on end and adding dowels. I bought plastic cases to store their shoes. I

Meanwhile in the basement... I couldn't find anything because there was no system And when I did locate the right dress, it was wrinkled! So two years ago, I proposed  "Closet Boxes," an organized way to store dolly's out of season gear upright in a cardboard box and out of the way. And while I am still faithfully storing doll clothes in this fashion, I found that some (many) items needed to be in full view. I was blaming the dolls for stealing borrowing items and losing them. Since that post, I have been reorganizing, building and rebooting....
A hidden camera revealed much activity in the vicinity of the closet while I am out of the room or asleep!

I needed something more practical than "pretty." This time around, I made racks and shelving inexpensively using...3/8" (4mm) foam core board, 3/8" dowels, a straight edge, hot glue gun and toothpicks. It's not difficult, it's not costly and best of is fast!!

My needs now are multiple. I have gowns of varying lengths...from ankle length to trains, pants and shirts. I have lots of black and lots of white. I have spoiled my girls--both the Barbies and the Fashion Royalty clan--with more shoes than I possess for myself! My dolls' needs are very specific. I am showing you 2 shelving units, which is all you need because you can configure the dimensions any way you please according to you own needs. Foam core is super light, but then again, so are dolly's clothes and accessories. You can use wood, but I chose this material because no hammer or drill is necessary. But if you really need to make it "pretty, feel free to paint, cover with auto-adhesive paper, or add trim.

Shelving Unit
I'm using this unit to store my dolls' wardrobe of boots. The unit was made from a single panel of 30x20" foam core board. The back and sides (cut in one piece where it's marked "cut") measure 18-3/4" from the right edge. The bottom panel is 3-3/4" from the bottom edge and the top is 3-3/4" up from the bottom panel. The resulting board is cut into 4 equal panels. You will need to trim a scant 1/8" off the side edge (so they will fit inside of the unit).

1. Measure and draw your lines directly on the board. Use a single edge blade, box cutter and a steel ruler. Cut through at the vertical line to separate the shelves, top and bottom panels from that of the side/back panel.

2. For the back panel, you will need to draw a vertical line 3-3/4" from the left edge and the same from the right edge. Using a straight edge razor or box cutter, score along those two vertical lines. That is, you will cut half way through the board without completely severing. Fold each side inward, in the direction away opposite the cut.

3. Shows what this should resemble.

4. You can use hot glue or some other glue along the top edge of the unit. Lay the top panel on.
Turn upside down and repeat, gluing the bottom panel to the unit.

Lay the shelving unit on its back.
Now let's plan what kind of spacing you will need depending on the accessory. In my case, I have boots of varying lengths. And boots and spats I made out of fabric.

1. Place the objects inside of the box and place your shelves around them.
2. Mark the placement with a pencil. Use a ruler to make sure, from side to side, everything is level. Add glue to the edges of each shelf and slide them in place. You can use 1/2 toothpicks on both sides to keep the panels in place while the glue is drying and as added support.
3. Here, I had fabric boots I chose to suspend so I poked a 3/8" dowel near the top.
4. I made separate hangers using dolly sized clothes pins and wire poked through the wire joint, bent into a S curve.

Note: I cut the dowel so that it would extend away from the shelf which allows me to hand boxes of shoes on each side. These are small translucent boxes I found at the Dollar store. They are normally used to store hardware items like nails, nuts and bolts! I organize the boxes of shoes by color.
In addition to these shoe boxes, I also rummaged through my dad's stuff and found an old storage box, normally used to store nails, nuts & bolts and the like. They are sold at hardware stores.

If you look closely at the photo, you'll also notice I also used different sizes of plastic drawers. One set holds lingerie, tops and scarves. Another for handbags. And the larger holds jewelry, hair stuff, and more shoes for the guys. (My craft drawers are on the other side of the desk.)
Ken's shoes fit into one of those drawers, but my FR guys' shoes are  larger. I found this box (designed to hold beads, thread, etc) at a crafts store. It's kept on the bottom of the guys' closet.

More (Planned) Closet Space
This is really, the same closet I built back in 2013, except I've used foam core instead of wood. Again, this was created using a single panel of 30x20" foam core. It does not have a closed back. But you can always cut another piece of board or poster board if you want it contained.

Here's a variation of the above shelving. In addition to re-positioning the shelves, I added "pegs" to suspend the shoulder bags.

Lengthwise, I divided the board into 4. The top two panels are sides and are cut separately. The bottom two panels are divided in half. This creates the top/back and the bottom/back of the unit.
Cut along the lines marked "cut." and score (or slice lightly and bend) where indicated.
1. When cut apart, it will look like this.
2. The top/back and the bottom/back are scored and folded.
3. Glue along the top edge of the side panels and place the top/back panel (folded 90 degrees) as shown. Turn around and repeat for the bottom. You can insert toothpicks cut in half and pressed into at the corners as extra support.
4. Hold the garments to the unit to determine where the dowels should go. You can use 3/8" or 1/4" dowels.
5. Again, if you want to close off the back, cut a piece of poster board and glue to the back edges.
For this size of closet, I can usually get 3 rows of racks comfortably within. You could add a fourth rack if you have lots of tops and shirts.
Me, I really needed a closet for those black tie dresses and ballgowns. (My girls go to so many glamorous events!) Here, there are only two rows. Perfect!

Hang On!
More closets mean you'll need LOTS more hangers! I made more of the variety I posted in, "Closet Boxes." Only this time, instead of recuperated cardboard, I used sheets of white foam: 3mm is nice but 2mm will do as well. What's nice here is that you create them to fit your doll.
 What's nice is that you can alter them to fit the garment. And you can pin the matching accessories directly onto the foam.
1. Place your doll on a sheet of paper. Trace around her body from her neck to the widest part of her hips. Don't draw the arms.
2. Remove the doll.
3. Smooth out the lines and transfer onto cardboard so that you use as a template.

You don't have to make them all the way to the hips. You could stop just below the waist if you need something to hang a top. You can also cut out the top of the legs so that you can hang matching pants, for example. You can make the hooks yourself...but even better...use Christmas ornament hooks sold in bulk! Cheap and easy!

Closet in My Pocket
MyStuff2 App can be configured to document all of your collections of dolls, clothes & accessories.
While the closet and storage boxes provide a tangible view of  what I have, I also have an inventory system on me at all times. There are a number of very helpful apps on the market for your smart phone or tablet. I use an iPhone app, "MyStuff2." It is a database which can be customized according to your need. I use it to keep track of all my dolls (names, dimensions, "date of birth" and price as well as a detailed account of all their clothing and accessories.  You create the categories and subcategories of your choice, then add pictures and comments. You can view everything at once, or separately. This way I know exactly what I have. Unfortunately this is only for iPhone users. You can download MyStuff2 Lite for free. It allows you to make 15 entries. If you like it, you can buy the full version for $4.99 which allows unlimited entries. For those of you with Android phones, look for an app that allows you to create your own categories and enter photos.

Oh my goodness. Is it September already??!!! Where on earth did summer go. Red carpet events start with the Emmy's (US Television Awards) and Fashion Month begins in New York!!! It's going to be a busy month ahead!

All text and photos property of Fashion Doll Stylist. Copyright 2018. Please ask permission before reposting. And please credit us. Thank you!

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Friday, August 17, 2018

Leather Weather 2.0

Over the past five and a half years, I’ve had the pleasure of sharing my ventures into doll fashion creation with all of you. When I start this blog there was very little Information on 1/6th scale clothing construction so I found myself often making things up as I went along with nothing but basic dressmaking to back me up. As I quickly discovered, many of the rules for making full sized clothes must be modified for the doll…particularly when it comes to specialty items like….leather wear for example.

In 2013, I did two posts on the subject: “Warm Leatherette,” working with vinyl, then two months later, “Leather Weather." I explored working with real leather and literally glued each garment together. This exercise gave me a clue as to why doll companies do not sell leather clothing. And while those two posts satisfied my dolls’ appetite for full-sized women’s leather goods, it was far from perfect. Over the last few years, however, my leather work has improved! One fine day, while admiring the work of another artisan on Instagram, I learned her secret to making consistently good leather wear.

Thin is in!
“I use glove weight, kidskin leather,” a friend told me. “It sews just like fabric.” Yep, the success of leather goods for dolls depends on the quality of leather! Of course it would!!! Skins that are between 1/64-1/32” is perfectly scaled to the doll! But where to find it? Me, I’m lucky. Each time I’m in Paris I head for my favorite store: “Au Gentlemen des Cuirs (4 bis, rue d’Orsel), situated in the fabric district where I can buy small scraps. BHV-Le Marais department store in Paris, also has a bin of leather scraps in the basement! And..the last time I was in New York City, Mood Fabrics (225 W. 37th St. 3rd floor)  had a small box of scraps where a found a few interesting skins. Otherwise, search online for “thin leather.” I found a vendor, Rio Rondo who, besides its very “cowboy-general-store” catalog,  also caters to miniature leather crafters. They sell a product known as “Skiver” (thinly shaved leather) sold in squares. There is a limited number of colors, but they say all of their products can be dyed. I also took a peak at an old, American brand, Tandy Leathers which sells something called “Lining Leather.” These are paper thin skins used to line the interiors of wallets! Like everything else, there are vendors on Etsy and EBay. Do a search for “thin leather” then look for 1oz weight, though 1-1/2 to 2 oz (a little easier to find) is okay as well. If you don’t see any indication of the leather’s weight….don’t buy it because it is probably too thick!

Lay It Out
Leather as thin as fabric means you can make just about anything. Glove weight leather will drape around the body with ease and can be fashioned into high fashion looks. Slightly thicker skins mean you should stick to a super simple pattern with few pieces. Princess seaming is not only okay, it’s a great way to get a good fit. Unless it’s a pattern you’ve used it before, make your garment in muslin first to ensure everything fits.

Leather has no real “grain,” but it does have stretch. You don’t have to worry about each piece laying exactly straight, but you will want to ensure each piece has stretch where you want it.

No placing a pattern on the fold. Use single piece patterns (the back all in one piece, for example) instead. You cannot pin your pattern to the leather. So place your pattern on the backside and to trace off the pattern with chalk.

If there many pieces, number each one so you know what goes where and what side is up when ready to assemble.

Use very sharp shears to cut. Use tape or clips to hold the ends together as you assemble.

For thicker leathers (1.5-2 oz), choose patterns with as few pieces as possible. My simplified one piece skirt pattern is still a favorite!

Sew It Up

The wonderful thing about super thin leather is that it sews as easily as fabric on a regular domestic machine. Use “leather” needles (12/80) which are wedge shaped and super sharp to keep from ripping the material. You’ll also want to use a slightly longer stitch than usual.
1 & 3. If you have a Teflon or roller foot for your machine, all the better, otherwise you can improvise by putting a bit of scotch tape on the bottom of your regular pressure foot. This helps to keep the leather sliding without getting stuck.
2. Tape your pieces together and just before the stitching arrives near the tape, remove it and continue sewing.
5. Or place the tape on the sides, out of the way of the stitching line.
6. Personally, I have not had those issues. Instead I usually have problems with the leather getting stuck on the bottom feed plate. put tissue paper on the seam lines and sew. Rip away when you are finished. I should point out, there are no “do-overs.” Once the needle pierces the leather, it’s leaves a hole. So be really careful. Tip: Angle the end of the seams near intersections so that when you sew, there is less bulk to sew through.
 6b. You cannot iron the seams flat (and even if you can, they'll still pop up), so apply rubber cement to the seam and the area it will fold onto. Let the rubber cement on both surfaces dry a bit.
7. Press the seam open with your fingers and press down.
8. This is what it looks like on the right side.
9. Angle the seams near points of intersection. This helps reduce bulk at points when you have two sets of seams coming together.

Of course straight seams are easy. But what happens when you add sleeves??!!!

 1. This is why thin leather is way better. It is easier to control! First, be sure to turn up the hem of the sleeve and use rubber cement to hold in place. Then use a threaded needle (double thread, knotted at the end) and a thimble. Using the same color thread as your garment, make a running stitch on the cap of the sleeve. Gather slightly.

2. Place tape to hold the sleeve onto the garment armhole.

3. Again, using a threaded needle and thimble (to protect your finger as you push the needle through the leather), baste the sleeve to the garment using a running stitch. Stitch the sleeve cap into the jacket as usual.
4. Fold the garment down, matching the underarm seams and tape. Then sew as usual.

5. Put a pencil through the sleeves. Apply the rubber cement along the seams.

6. Press the seams open.
7. Attach a safety pin to the seam allowance of the sleeve hem. Close and push the pin through the sleeve until you can take hold of it on the other end.

8. Pull the pin through.

9. Keep working it until the sleeve is right side up. Remove the pin.

Finish it off

Most of the leather clothes I make for my dolls are unlined. I feel the leather is bulky enough without adding another layer.
1. Leather doesn't fray. I've simply turned down the edges starting with the hem. On the front edge of the jacket, I trimmed away that little bit of the hem that overlaps front edge.
2. Fold (and glue) the front edge.
3. Trim away the part of the front edge that extends beyond the hem for a clean finish.
4. For curved edges, clip before folding over.

As I stated earlier, you are not obliged to finish off the edges or the hem. It all depends on the look you are going for.
Princess seaming adds shape and fit to the jacket. The leather is thin enough to drape a sarong skirt. Even though I have not turned up the hems of either, the suit still looks complete.
For the sake of this project, I decided to line one of the dolls' existing jackets.

Remember, linings add structure and bulk. So you might want to reserve them for more loosely fitted or more tailored garments. If you are using a super fine leather, you can do a edge to edge lining the same way you would do for a fabric garment.  For Vanessa's jacket, however, my leather was a tad bit thick (2oz) so I decided to use a method I noted in one of my own leather jackets. The idea behind this--when you dry clean the jacket--different chemicals are used for the leather and others for the lining. Also, the lining will become soiled before the outer part of the garment. I am using this method because it makes stitching the lining in by hand easier on the fingers.
1. Use bias tape or cut a 1/2" (1cm) bias strip of cotton fabric. Hold in place with tape. Or here...I've used those doll-sized clothes pins.
2. Baste the tape along the neckline.
3. Put rubber cement along the seam line of the neckline, leaving the fabric loose. You are gluing down the seam but not bias strip. Make two more strips and baste to the front edges of the jacket. Fold and glue the edges down.
4. When you are finished, the inside of the garment will resemble this.
5. Make your lining. Finish the hem. Then fold and iron or baste the edges down.
6. Pin the lining to the fabric strips around the jacket, adjusting it until it fits the inside of the jacket. Sew the lining onto the fabric strip with the exception of the hem. Leave the lining to swing free from the hem of the jacket. Tack the seam of the lining sleeve to that of the jacket sleeve. (If you are making a jacket with set in sleeves, you can omit the lining sleeves, turn the armholes down and lining to the armhole seams of the jacket.

Of course, you could forget about the lining and simply leave the edges as is!
You'll still end up with a pretty good looking garment!

You can still use velcro to close dolly's leather wear if you so choose. But you have other options as well.

 1. For front closing garments, you can always use buttons and buttonholes! Here, I use brads (found in craft stores). Bend the stems to leave a little space between the surface of the jacket and the head...which, by the way, you can paint to match the garment.
2. Cut tiny slits (with a razor or seam ripper) on the opposite side of the front opening, just wide enough to bring the button through! Instead of buttons, you can always thread small bits of leather through a hole then knot on both sides to create your own buttons as well!
3. This jacket was made using a vinyl square I found at the craft store. The same rules for making leather garments apply to faux leather, plether or vinyl! I used a brad for the button.
4. For this jacket where the jacket meets together at the center front, I didn't have a separating zipper, so I hand sewed in a tiny hook and eye.

Collars present another challenge. Unless you are working with very thin leather and can add a facing to the collar, there is a shortcut.
1. The shawl collar is an ideal solution for when you want to add a collar.
2. This is a modified version of the shawl collar used to give the illusion of a notched collar (found in many tailored jackets). It is the same as the shawl with a notch cut out. What I have done is to start out with a V-neck collarless jacket.
3. I draped this collar around the doll's neck to get the shape and with width I wanted to come up with this pattern. I have put a center back seam so I can adjust it if necessary. But if you know the collar is a perfect fit, you can easily make a pattern where it is in one piece without that seam.
4-5. The collar is then added to the jacket along the neckline. I lay the collar wrong side up against the underside of the jacket and topstitch in place. I turned down (and glued in place) the outer edge of the collar. When you are finished, the collar is rolled back over the neckline and looks perfect!
6. Again, this leather was a tad bit thick, so I had to hammer the edges (and seams) flat. Place tissue paper over the inside seams then use a mallet or hammer to bang everything flat.

Buttonhole pockets in leather garments are very easy to create and they look great!
1. Start out by first deciding on the width of your pocket. Then, using a blade, carefully slash the placement of the pocket. Cut out a small square, the same width as your pocket with. For the final length of the flap, you need to multiply 3 times. Fold two-thirds and glue, leaving one-third free.
2. Slide the flap through the slit upwards. Diagram #2 shows what this looks like on the inside of the garment. The flap is facing upwards. The red lines indicate the part of the flap exposed on the other side.
3. Right side up this is what it looks like. Glue the top part of the flap to the inside of the jacket. Note: if you include a vest pocket, the flap goes in the opposite direction. That is, the flap points upwards on the outside (downwards inside). 

Hammer Time

With super thin leather you can iron the seams on a low setting (cover the leather with tissue paper first), but for anything thicker (2 oz) it’s best to glue down the seams and hems with rubber cement then hammer it flat. Again, protect the leather by putting a cloth over it before hammering.

Finish it Off
The jean jacket in metallic leather! The level of detail makes this jacket something special!

Assuming you have a steady hand…topstitching adds a nice finish to structured styles (jackets, coats). Tip: If you’re adding patch pockets, it’s better to topstitch them first then glue or hand tack them in place on the finished garment afterwards.

Patch pockets are tricky! Here's a tip. Cut the pockets out and top stitch them before you put them onto the garment. Then simply tack them in place. This way, if you make a mistake, you don't ruin the entire garment!

Finally....everything we discussed today....can be applied to faux leather! But just remember to choose those which are lightweight and scaled to the doll!

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