Friday, November 22, 2019

Dolls Eye View: Paris S/S 2020 Part II

Ah...Paris in the springtime! As I stated in Part I of this report, the good thing about Paris fashion week is there is always something for everyone. Not too interested in experimenting in edgy looks? No problem. Paris is awash in feminine looks for the next spring summer season!

Rive Droite
We start our journey in early spring when the chill is still in the air and color has not yet bloomed. On the right bank of Paris is where the proper « nice girl » looks reside. Here we see everything from lightweight linens cut in easy to wear tunics over pants to jackets etched with lace, flirty little coat dresses....all drenched in the go-anywhere tone of Parisian black!

Rive Gauche
Across the river...left bank chic, an easy going look with the tough edge of leather was literally invented by St. Laurent in the 1960’s. The good thing is, it is still alive and well and defined by a new generation of designer, 50 years later! This group is essential a collection of leather (and vinyl) jackets over straight legged trousers and mini skirts. Once considered on the edgier side of style, these are now fashion classics.

Joan fell for the shiny vinyl jacket. She has a feeling we’ll be seeing much more shine in the seasons to come. Here she’s put together a hip grazing navy vinyl jacket belted over pencil thin pants and ankle boots.


Plaid is big for spring. The girls really like the big « chalk » strings...white on on white. No matter which plaid you choose for your diva, the silhouettes are young and flirty. 

Veronica was quite intrigued with the combination of oversized plaid and her favorite...fringe! We made this 3 piece outfit for her consisting of a bare midriff wrap top with leather straps that wind around the waist over a double breasted skirt trailing in fringe. Over her shoulders is a tiny « shrug » (a small bolero in the shape of a open ended tube.

Summer Breeze

Oh but summer is final here and what could be more befitting on a warm day than a pretty white ensemble. All super feminine, the girls flipped for a body skimming dress with ruffles dropped off the shoulders, a multi layered dress with plenty intrigue or the simplicity of a pure white pantsuit.

For Kym, however, summer is all about the coolness and easy chic of a shift dress cut in sheer white cotton with a simple over coat. The dress is the basic sheath without the seams stitched down. I added in an separate layer that stops at the top of the thighs. It’s basted together with the dress which is then sewn together at the side seams.

Jardin des Plantes

Bring on the color! After all, it is summertime! We loved the big splashy floral and tropical prints as well as the tender roses painted against a white backdrop. More importantly, we loved all of the things that make overall look irresistible...fabric that wraps around the bustling, waists that are marked, and especially drop shoulder sleeves with plenty of volume.

I love the colors of this print, especially when splashed against a white background. I took liberties with the silhouette. My fabric was a tad too thick to blouse over the waist with any success, so after gathering the neckline I simply used a small belt to tie under the bustling. The sleeves (poufs attached to small tubes hidden underneath) were added afterwards and attached to the underarm of the dress. I did not like the shorter length nor the boots, so me and Sophia agreed the dress should be ankle length.

Caribbean Beat

Continuing on with our color fest.... we loved the movement, the ease and the brilliant tones of this group. The prints are more abstract but the silhouettes are whatever makes you happy....skinny pants and wrap tops to a giant scarf dress that flows around the body with the greatest of ease.

And that is exactly what caught Grace’s eye. A nice big splash of color in the form of a triangular cut of silk suspended from a small gold wire necklace. 

Basking in the Basque

We thought France was being invaded by the Spaniards but realized there is a whole culture of this lacy, swashbuckling style down Arles, in southern France. That stark white coatdress with its lacy petticoats is quite nice, but the girls went crazy for the over abundance of lace, especially when presented in such graphic contrasts. 

Noor fell for this sort of contrasting vibe...the toughness of leather softened with the gentle touch of lace. The dress is made in two parts: a leather corset belted over a gathered handkerchief pointed skirt, with lots of lace appliques. And though the dress is quite lovely as is, we felt it could use one more element...a tiny bolero jacket made from a tiny bit of sheer lace.

Not to be outdone...Stefani stepped up and grabbed this glamorous gown made from black taffeta and feathers. The dress is a classic draped dress in a short length with a train that trails out from the side. Marabou feathers are then added to the front. 

Orient Express

When I saw these dresses I was most anxious to make something from Chinese brocade. I love the exoticism, the richness of color and print. In the end, the garments themselves are like jewelry!

Right in time for Christmas.... I found some red and gold brocade. The best part is, both sides are useable! I decided, however, not to adhere to the original coat because I’ve made a kimono coat out of brocade for the girls already. So I decided to have some fun and let myself be inspired by a coat designed by Martin Margiela (we featured in a previous post). Tiah’s coat is cut in one piece and the sleeves are added afterwards. Instead of letting the collar drape over the shoulders that reveal the reserve side of the fabric, I draped it then stitched down the tucks on both ends. The cuffs are separate—worn like bracelets. As you can see I didn’t line this. The fabric is polyester (and unravels mercilessly). So it is essential to melt the edges with a flame. The pants underneath are just regular stovepipe trousers I cut using the reverse side of the fabric.  

If I took an extra day to post this, it is because well Sofia begged me to make her something out of brocade and even chose the color! Again, I strayed from the original design. I didn’t have my beads and needles with me, so instead, I cut out extra butterflies, melted the edges and added them back on to a basic bodice as appliques. I also had a pressed tin ornament to which I added a bit of gold wire to transform it into this necklace. The original skirt is a chiffon with gathering just above the knee. Instead, I opted to make a sarong skirt our of a single square of the same fabric. Hint: should you be tempted to work with Chinese brocade,  beware that, unlike the pure silk version, this fabric is a bit stiff and frays terribly! For that reason, I melt the edges of all pattern pieces. If, on the other hand, you are fortunate enough to find pure silk, it is a dream to work with. You will not be able to melt the edges, instead you will have to hem or line the garment.

On that note, I’ve given the girls a little time off to explore and enjoy Paris. It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas. So they’ll be sending back lots of photos to share for an up coming post!

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
Like us on Facebook: @FashDollStylist
We're also on Pinterest: @FashDollStylist
And of course, we are on Instagram: @fashiondollstylist

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2019. Please do not reproduce without prior permission and please always credit us.

Thursday, November 14, 2019

Dolls Eye View: Paris S/S 2020 Fashion Trends

As expected, Paris had something for everybody. It wasn’t as « pretty » as the Milan collections, but there were plenty of ideas, no matter where your esthetic sensitivities lay. This is a very large report, so much so, we decided to present it in two parts. For this, part one, we look at the somewhat edgier side of Paris style. Much of this does not look like spring as there is lots of « Parisian » black!!! The girls were more intrigued by the designers’ ideas presented. But don’t worry. If this is not your cup of tea, stick around for part 2 when the classics return!

For this group, the design isn’t really all that extraordinary. It’s more about the material involved. A leather dress, a bustier and pencil skirt that puts skin to skin... we liked the simplicity of silhouette and the richness of the leather.
Again, we all loved the simplicity of the garments spelled out in soft, supple leather. For the doll versions, no need for all of the seams. (It's there in the full scale dresses due to size of the pelts in relation to the pattern pieces.)

Power Play
This is about the power of a jacket and trousers drenched in the color black. It’s the pantsuit in its purist form presented in everything from leather to sequins. 

For Margot, we chose a classic leather power suit: blazer and straight-legged trousers.
Graphic Language
We take black and cut it with white—whether expressed in color blocking or etched in stripes—for an eye popping contrast. 

Boyz Club
Men’s into women’s wear, androgynous dressing, or transgender mode—it’s all about mixing it up by looking in monsieur’s closet and putting your own spin on things. The man’s jacket can be cut away to expose its girly side. And who knows, sometimes HE might invade HER closet for a most unusual look.

Noor was quite intrigued by what first appears to be a jacket over slim Jim pants with cut-aways over the hips. In actuality, this really appears to be a jumpsuit. In order to bring this to life for Noor, I created this in two pieces: the top (which closes in the back) which is attached to waistband, also holding up the trousers at the center point. I added in another « faux waistband » to give the illusion of the cut-outs over the hip bone! Originally I did not add this waistband in. The overall look was VERY sexy—a little too much for Noor’s taste! So we decided to adhere more closely to the original look!

Edge of Night
This is really a walk on the wild side where punk, Goth and an assortment of looks with a hard edge reside. Most are wearable except for the one look Anna chose!

We were both quite intrigued by the way this « bondage » look wrapped around the torso. I cannot image the human version (unless the straps are attached to a flesh tone foundation) because the slightest gesture would result in milady completely falling out of the top! Anna has a very tiny body with almost no bust.  I made this in two parts: top and pants. The fabric is stretch and the straps over the front are attached to a solid back bodice. This was fun for the pix, but I’m not so sure she’ll get much wear out of this outfit1 

Soft Serve
Another edgy theme, largely based on the exotic esthetics of Japanese avant garde. More art than fashion, all of the ribbons, the handkerchief points, the cut-outs make for a very interesting conversation. 

With a Twist!
Here are basic styles with at least one element that is slightly askew. It can be a top where one side falls off the shoulder in a twist, or perhaps a simple black sheath given a jolt with a twist of color!

Upon close inspection, the original dress looks as if it might be part bra, part asymmetrical gown. For Noor’s version, I cut the dress in one piece and changed the colors of the insets to something more interesting: fusha and mandarine orange. I used ribbon for those insets and decided (in contrast to the original), to let the ribbon stream down the back of the gown.

We are not finished yet with Paris. I have few more outfits to finish. Paris Part 2 should be up in a few days!  Afterwards, the girls have decided to stay in Paris for a little rest & relaxation. They’ll be reporting on the sights and events around the City of Lights!

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
Like us on Facebook: @FashDollStylist
We're also on Pinterest: @FashDollStylist
And of course, we are on Instagram: @fashiondollstylist

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2019. Please do not reproduce without prior permission and please always credit us.