Friday, July 28, 2017

Behind the Design: That Maurizio Galante Jacket

There was one more couture look I just HAD to do. But I needed time to figure it out how to make a dolly version.

There were two shows--Maurizio Galante and Iris van Herpen-- presented during the Paris Haute Couture that me and the girls loved, but could not include in our last report for good reason. Both of these designers create what we could classify This is when the principles, the exploration and experimentation employed in the world of fine art is translated into high fashion. Some things are wearable, others not. But for me, artists like these are necessary for the evolution of style and design.

Originally trained as an architect, Maurizio Galante is an Italian fashion designer who launched his label in 1986 before joining Paris Haute Couture scene in1991. The transversal approach to his craft sees him combining fashion, architecture, art and interior design. He sees his work as what he calls "objects of desire" or "conversation pieces" destined to evoke emotions.

Galante's work caught my eye many years ago with his unusual use of form, elements and movement, all elegantly executed. He's been around longer than Ms. van Herpen so there is more of an old school approach to his work. For the Fall/Winter Haute Couture '17 collection, Galante opted for a static show so that viewers could appreciate the details of each piece.

Fashion Doll Stylist

I was so intrigued by the white jacket. I love the rows and rows of tiny squares, the texture and movement they create as they fall over the body and down the arms. The jacket itself is quite simple. It's the squares that pose the problem. I made little samples using materials at hand but, as usual, the challenge is always the tiny proportions of the doll. You don't have the luxury of hemming anything, so the material must not fray when cut. I tried jersey but the edges curled. It's ok for another look, just not the one I was going for. Actually, it's okay if the fabric edges fray, if that's what you want (there are no rules), it's just not what I was going for. So at the end of the day I decided to use....industrial strength paper toweling for my squares.

This project starts by measuring and cutting my paper towel in strips of 1/2" (13mm).  I gathered about 4 strips at a time, then cut them into 1/2" (13mm) cubes. I used (kitchen) string (threaded through a wide-eye quilting needle) to string the tiny squares.
You can use a basic jacket or kimono. But hold off lining it. Then, make several strings of squares.
1. Drape a row of squares along the front edge and around the neck of the jacket and pin in place. 2. Using regular needle and thread, begin by taking down the first square to the jacket, but for the rest of the string, tack around the string.
3. As I work, I separate the squares and loop the stitch around the string.
4. For my next row, I place it next to the first row but then pin at the shoulder and down the back, close to the side seam. There will be a space under the arm. Leave that empty. Continue to add the rows until the back is covered. When you are working with the rows of squares, always tack the first and last squares to the jacket to keep them from unraveling. But you want to tack the string down for the rest so that you can adjust the squares afterwards.
5. I cut slightly smaller squares for the sleeves. I cut the toweling into 3/8" (10mm) strips and then 3/8" (10mm) cubes for stringing. Use a dowel, fat pencil or pen  to slip into the sleeve of the jacket while you tack on the row of squares.
6. You can make a spiral around the sleeve with the row of squares (as shown in the diagram). Here you see my completed jacket. Again, notice I've left a space under the arms. This is to keep the jacket from becoming too bulky on the doll. It won't look strange because we will be closing this jacket with a belt.
 7. Once you have finished adding on all the squares, now is the time to hand sew in your lining.
The belt is simple. I took another length of string, knotted it at the end and began adding on 3/8" (10mm) squares. Once I have enough to make me happy, I adjust them so that they are evenly placed on two ends. Then I knot the opposite end.
My jacket is not exactly like the one created by Maurizio Galante. My squares don't bend. Nonetheless, I've captured the spirit of the original jacket. What's amazing is that the exterior of my jacket is completely made of paper!
Okay, so I know this type of expression is not everyone's cup of tea. You can use this idea of squares to make a lovely trim for a garment. This time I, I cut up a dryer sheet into 1/2" squares then added to the top of Ingrid's slip dress.
It's a nice alternative to feathers and fur and adds a very pretty soft touch to a summer gown.

Future Couture
Dutch designer Iris van Herpen is purely a 21st century couturier who employs 3D design and technology in her works of fashion art. Nothing I can do can come remotely close to her work, so instead, I invite you to view a the behind the scenes clip at how this amazing designer works:

All text and photos (except for the Iris van Herpen video) property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2017 (and should be credited as such). Please don't reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.

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Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Doll's Eye View: Paris Haute Couture Fall 2017

Literally translated, the word "couture" means dressmaking. Any made-to-order dress or gown is couture, but not all couture is "Haute Couture" exceptionally high level of dressmaking. It isn't just about fancy gowns or hefty price tags, this is a completely different type of garment from that which is produced for mass distribution.  And as with other forms of fashion, lifestyles impact what  couturiers produce for their clientele. As women have become more active, Haute Couture has become more simple.

Since its inception in 1865, Haute Couture is the product the super wealthy turns to for wardrobe choices. Couture fabrics are like fine works of art produced in small quantities by private, family owned mills. Master crafters are also employed hand embroider, apply beads or feathers onto the final garment while others produce coordinated shoes, hats and jewelry. But often, the women who could afford clothes costing upwards of $15,000 for a daywear dress to over $250,000 for a hand embroidered evening gown, had plenty of time for tending to their wardrobe and  attending  fittings. But times are a-changing.

Most women in affluent socio-economic communities now hold down full time jobs, or run their own companies. Such fast paced lifestyles means less time for the frivolity of "ladies who lunch." The stigma of wearing off the rack designer wear has dissipated. Most young women have no idea of the work and artistry that goes into a couture gown, nor do they care. Today, it's all about....the look and labels! As a result, there are very few "ambassadors" of the real Haute Couture. So there is no real reason for these clothes to exist. But Paris being Paris...the industry won't let HCdie. Instead, twice yearly,  it invites new designers to present their wares at an event once reserved for a handful of iconic couturiers. Today, designers come from all corners of the globe to celebrate Paris Couture Week. Some, like Italian born, Armani and Giambattista Valli, British duo Ralph & Russo, Lebanese Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, and Elie Saab are now doing Haute Couture better than the French! But many of younger designers invited as guests during couture week, seem not to completely grasp the concept of couture. Much of what we saw was, well...ready to wear. And sadly, this season, many of our favorite labels showed either dreary grey frocks or predictable, almost stereotypical ball gowns. As a result, this season, my girls settled on only a few looks from the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 17 collections.

Star That You Are..
These are simple silhouettes zapped with the twinkle of delicate beadwork. They are dresses that may very well end up on red carpet events this fall! But even with all of the sparkle, my girls found ways to jazz up the looks a bit!

This is a dress made from a tube of stretch, semi-matte black sequins. I removed a bit of embroidery from a piece of vintage, beaded, black lace and tacked it onto the top for the "bra" top. I also added a bit more of this embroidery to the hemline, then added a few iridescent black beads  to the bra and to the hem. The rest of that trim is used as a shawl that Grace chose to toss over her shoulders.

I really don't really understand the Haute Couture connection with this wrap dress. And I doubt the woman who buys this will wear it without underwear. But it was simple to make and, after all, my girls love to shine! Instead of rhinestone studded sheer fabric, I chose a glitter tulle for both Nichelle's dress and shawl. Where the dress crisscrosses over the body, I added rhinestone stickers.

Christian Values
This summer, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs pays tribute to the legacy of Christian Dior with a tremendous exhibition. (We will dedicate a post on that exhibition in the near future.) A few couturiers also paid homage, with silhouettes reminiscent of the namesake's signature look: the "trapeze." This classic dress has a fitted bodice with full, flared skirt. This is a very pretty silhouette that lends itself to princess Barbie wear!
There were lots of ou's and ahs over this Grecian dress. Though it looks more summer than winter, my girls loved the softness of this look. The dress starts with a strapless fitted bodice with a drape of sheer fabric attached to a full, gathered skirt.

One Off
 Again, emphasis is on the shoulders, with one-shouldered dresses taking center stage.

We loved Ralph & Russo, finding it to be one of the few collections that had the mark of authentic Haute couture. That baby blue dress caught everybody's eye and is just the kind of challenge I was looking for. But it did make me cry. Making this dress meant getting out the muslin and draping it directly on the doll. And though I made another toile from the original drape, the bad surprise came when I transferred everything to fabric. The top came out better than I expected, but there is a major flaw in the skirt. I cut it on the bias thinking the skirt would fit better. Instead, the edges stretched as I ironed it which is why it is curling around the legs. When I have a bit of time, I'd like to try this again, cutting the skirt on the straight grain!!!

Glamour Girls
Me and the girls love old fashioned, 1930's silver screen fashion. We love the feathers, the fur touches, the glitz and the drama. But if you look closely, beyond the flash and dash of the glamour, you'll see that not everything here is HC.. Still, this was something my girls felt they could work work with.
For an Haute Couture catwalk show, we believe you should go big or go home, especially when it comes to accessories. After all, these are clothes for a queen! While Meagan loves white satin and white fur, she felt the original dress was a bit too.....ready to wear. It could at least have a little beading. In this case, we simply made a bodice using some pearl medallions (found in the wedding department of our favorite fabric store). Her coat is simply a cheap rabbit fur scarf we found last winter..

The original dress has the look Nadja was going for, but she felt Haute Couture, even in a modern context, is more than a leather corset and pleated trousers. We kept the (faux) fur neck muff, the leather corset and matching opera length gloves, but gave her a taffeta wrap skirt instead and added ropes of rhinestones.

Shine On
Silk satin sculpted into a fishtail gown, velvet with shiny edges generously poured over the body in a tent-like silhouette or a super simple evening length shift with gilded is the time to shimmer and shine!

But why look good when you can look great! It is, after all Haute Couture. You can start out with something simple, but when you finish, the look should be....grandiose! Stephani looks sensational in her Ralph & Russo but she didn't stop there. She borrowed the crystal polyester coat we did in an early post..."Flaky Pastry."

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Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Ken's Eye View: Summer 17 Menswear Trends

The guys are back, this time with the best of Summer 2017 fashions! Traditionally, summer collections are not news making styles. It's a time for chilling out and enjoying the beautiful weather in style. After eyeing the catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris, the dude dolls in my house have all agreed the way to go is with super cool fashions cut in easy to wear silhouettes cut from soft cottons in white, neutrals and sometimes fruity tones.

Easy Does It!
Summer time when the livin' is easy....shapes are loose and large. Think drawstring pants, oversized tunic shirts and Tshirts that float loosely over the abs. Many of the looks on this page can be made using the basic pattern tutorials for the Ken dolls. You only need to lengthen the patterns for the oversized shirts or widen the pattern (and ignore any darts) for the wide pants.
Sport coat, slacks with a tie dye oversized tunic peaking out....this is an exotic look with a Middle Eastern flair that our guys simply love. The tie dye aspect of these shirts adds a bold graphic statement to Renauld's ensemble.
New Boys on the Block
Bold and big, this is the 2017 version of color blocking. Shirts and jackets are super wide with stark, contrasting accents. This is done by changing up the color of the sleeves or pants, or with the addition of a supersized pockets or blocks of photo images.
Country Gentleman
The same idea of loose, easy clothes is carried over to more formal daywear. Sport jackets are cut from textured cottons and linens in styles ranging from the classic blazer through safari jackets. Colors are faithful to sun bleached tones of chalk, clay, white washed pastels, light grey.
Mr. Clean
Once again, this is a story of easy fashions cut from the same neutral palette. In this theme, note the appearance of the jumpsuit, the oversized shirt with cargo pockets and the trench coat tossed over the shoulders of a white Tshirt and trousers.
Short Stop
As to be expected with summer fashions, shorts... particularly those worn with jackets, are big! Here, the guys show off the best way to wear shorts from daytime safari looks to regal nighttime styles.
Our guy, Marcus wears the total (Moncler Gamme Bleu) package: safari jacket, white shirt and shorts with lots of pockets, worn with knee socks and beige shoes.
Suits Me!
There are classic suits, by the way. But look at how they break tradition in terms of choice of color. Whether single breasted or double breasted, think of using soft colors for your Ken doll's summer wardrobe. You could also be rock star daring and use a brocade fabric for the whole( a la Editions MR)  suit OR...add a black ruffled shirt to a charcoal black suit for a glammed up guy look a la Versace.
Desert Storm
Military is on everybody's mind! Look for styles inspired by army/navy gear. Rugged fabrics in khaki, camouflage, battleship green and slate grey are key colors for clothes with a lot of structure and detail: patch or cargo pockets, snaps and straps.
From the battlefields to the mean streets of urban jungles, overcoats, shirts, and sometimes denim jeans are spattered with "stencil graffiti" motifs. Again, this is a story about great big silhouettes and even bigger, bolder patterns literally painted onto the face of the garment.
Fresh Prints of BelAir...
Speaking of prints... They're not just reserved for Barbie fashion, you know. Our guys have picked up on the trend in all of its aspects. You can use kitschy florals or vintage prints for shirts and even shorts, subtle patterns in soft cotton for elegant suits or go all out with graffiti scrawled over jackets, shorts and shorts. The patterns are kept simple. The overall effect is large!
Dudes in Denim
Not your grandfather's jeans.....these show how far designers have taken the iconic garment. In the version by Christopher Shannon, the classic jeans jacket and pants are fringed using belt loops! The message here is...get creative with your blues! We probably couldn't duplicate Shannon's styles for the doll, but we could substitute rough cut slices denim for the belt loops! guys denim with subtle patterns like those used in jackets and loose trousers OR the other extreme....super long jeans crushed around the ankles with lots of straps!
Tribal Vibes

With far away cultures the center of world events, it's no wonder we are seeing ethnic patterns and prints used in menswear. My dude dolls really loved the look of ikat prints worn with basic navy blazers, animal prints for hipster jackets or exotic geometrics etched over classy daywear gear.
For awhile now, prints, normally reserved for women's wear, has been adopted into menswear. But as styles have relaxed, the use of these prints has grown into a popular way to jazz up the look.

In the meantime, rock star mania continues its influence on men's fashions. Zak liked the idea of a waist length zebra printed jacket over slim pants. But instead of adhering to the original Louis Vuitton garment, we chose a simpler pattern and polished cotton instead of the leather version. Zak's "Nike" (which I found on eBay) perfectly compliments this look.
Summer in the City
White and neutrals aren't the only choices you have when choosing fabric for your favorite vinyl guy. There is also a tangy palette of fruit kissed tones to choose from. Keep the individual elements simple. But go as creative as your doll will let you when it comes to fabric and color!
Here, Richard wears a basic blazer (the tutorial for this is HERE) and trousers cut from apricot raw silk. The jacket and pants were made using the tutorials we did early on. To that classic pant suit, we added a shirt (that we lengthened by one inch (2.5 cm) then cut from batik dyed silk. This is the coolest way to look this summer.
If you only have the time to make one garment for Ken....let it be an oversized shirt!!!!
Richard (left) wears a classic shirt that was lengthened, whereas his friend Renauld (right), wears a tie dye shirt with no collar that is buttoned down the back. I used the same shirt pattern (which you can find by clicking HERE) but laid it out so that the front center line was on the fold. And I added seam allowance to the center back seam.
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Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Going Fourth!

To all of our friends in the United States....
Happy Fourth of July.
Enjoy. Stay Safe.

We'll be back shortly with a trend report for your Ken dolls.

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