Hip-length sloper front & back
Sleeve
Skirt-front & back (Video included)
1-pc Corset
1-pc Pants (Video included)
1-pc Skirt
Knitwear foundation (dress, pants)
Basic Bodice Sloper for Ken (Video included)
Basic Pants Sloper for Ken (Video included)
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Have you ever thought of putting out a "book"? I work in the fashion industry and? I have to say....would buy your book. Especially for tried and true pattern slopers.....Which I have now tried to make myself ( doll clothing is a little trickier than Human sized clothing and sewed "completely differently ) Consider a Book.
ReplyDeleteYes. Putting a book together is my New Year's resolution for this year!!! And you're right. Doll clothing is MUCH trickier than those for humans due to their size, proportions and the fact their bodies don't move like human flesh! But it's been fun to figure ways around making clothes for dolls! Thank you for your visit.
ReplyDeleteHope to see this book! :)
DeleteI was asked to make a retro outfit I made for a barbie to fit an action figure doll so I had to make a pattern from scratch. Previously I have used patterns and altered them to fit and changed design lines. This doll has silicon skin and the tape was difficult to stick on the doll. I used your technique and made Slopers which I will use to create the outfit. I also have been completely lining the outfits which has been very challenging. Thank you very much for your help.
ReplyDeleteThank you Margaret, for your very touching comment. I literally pour my heart into this blog and it is always nice to know that I'm actually helping someone out there in cyberspace. Thank you for your visit. Come back anytime!!!
DeleteHi! I've been trying to follow your video tutorial instructions on making slopers. Still trying. It gets difficult to use those tiny pins, I mean I have small fingers, but still hard to pin things using the tiny applique pins lol. I've pricked myself several times. On all pins actually. Love the videos you done, hope to see more soon.
ReplyDeleteAlso it would be awesome if u sold copies of your slopers for all of the types of dolls, for the rest of us, since some may have difficulty making these slopers. Have u considered this? Thanks.
DeleteThank you for all of your kind words. The system of creating slopers directly on the figure is a technique called "draping" or 3-D Design which is taught in 1st year fashion programs all over the world. Pattern drafting, which is also taught in 1st year studies, requires taking measurements then using math to calculate the dimensions of the sloper. For a 12" figurine, this is a very difficult procedure which also results in errors because you're splitting fractions. This is why I have chosen draping slopers for the doll. I use the tiny pins in my tutorials largely for esthetic reasons. Feel free to use regular size pins if you're more comfortable using them.
DeleteSo glad somebody came up with this idea, because I get so frustrated with commercial doll patterns, I find the finished garment never fits properly! The patterns I've used I think we're done not by draping on doll, but rather drafting. I feel what you do gives them a much better fit & customize for each doll body type! 👍
ReplyDeleteNo, I have not considered making and selling slopers for all the different dolls on the market because I'd have to spend a fortune buying every single version of every single doll. Even within the Barbie family there are many variations of bodies depending on when the doll was made, the series she came out of and the brand. In addition to Barbie, there is Cindy and Frankie not to mention Bratz, MH, JamieShow Demi Couture, Phicen and many others not counting their 16" cousins! But thank you for thinking of us all the same.
ReplyDeleteIt's me again with another question lol. For making a slopers for stretch knits, using that fabric, can a sloper like this be made for a t-shirt or sweater aswell? Thanks.
DeleteHave you ever designed and made any fashions for people, since you went to fashion design school?
ReplyDeleteYes I have (for private clientele) very early on. But most of my experience in the fashion industry has been more along the lines of illustration, promotion, writing and education.
DeleteHi! I wanted to ask, how many inches from the selvage on the muslin, do I mark the horizontal and vertical lines? For both 16" Tonner dolls aswell as 11-1/2" Barbie dolls?
ReplyDeleteThanks. -DollsnFashion
Hi there. You may or may not be working with a piece of muslin that still has the selvage. But it's a good idea to leave about 1/2" margin to the side (left or right depending on whether it's the front or back sloper) of your vertical line. For the bodice: As far as the horizontal line goes...no matter the size of doll, lay her down on the muslin where you've already drawn the vertical line then plan for your horizontal line to fall directly at the tip of her bust. Cut your muslin roughly 2" above this line for the 11 1/2" to 12 1/2" and roughly 2 1/2" above that line for the 16" doll. You want to make sure there is enough fabric to fall on the shoulder, sides and waist line. For the pants or skirt slopers: Again, leave about 1/2" to the left or right of the vertical line. Lay the doll down on the muslin on this line and note where the widest part of her hips fall. For the Barbie/FR doll, cut the muslin roughly 1-1/2" about that line. For the 16", cut it roughly 2" above that line. Hope that helps.
DeleteI forgot to ask what sizes of muslin triangles do I cut? For both 12" & 16" dolls. Thanks - DnF
DeleteLol just realized I said triangles, I meant rectangles. I was wondering what sizes of muslin rectangles I cut to drape for making slopers, for both sized dolls, 12" & 16"? I tried and I think the pieces were too big. Thanks in advance. -DnF
DeleteSorry for the delay in responding. Just before I put up a new post, I get crazy busy. (I assumed you meant rectangle when I first read your question.) In general, for the basic slopers, you should allow for roughly 1/2" above, below and on each side of the doll. For the 12" doll, that equates to about 4x2" for both the bodice and skirt slopers, front and back. For the 16" doll, it's about 4-1/2x2-1/2". If your rectangles are too big, simply cut away the excess. The problem is only when you don't have enough fabric to cover the section of the doll.
DeleteNo your fine! Thanks so much. I just realized that I'll probably need to make longer pieces for the skirt, pants and one piece foundation slopers!
DeleteJust a note to say thank you for this amazing blog and for these wonderful instructions. You are greatly appreciated.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your thoughtful note. And welcome to my blog. I think you'll have a lot of fun here!!!
DeleteLaura Mac wrote: Your clothing designs are stunning and your tutorials are such a gift. I appreciate you sharing your techniques with us. In trying to make a sloper for Man Bun Ken, I found his legs to be quite difficult. He has this wide space between the top of his thighs and his torso that is so odd shaped, I don't know how to design the sloper so that it lays smooth and doesn't pucker.
ReplyDeleteLaura Mac, I hope you receive this message. Your original message was deleted by accident and since it was removed from the server, this was the only way I could get it posted.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your very kind words. To answer your question. I did two posts on creating bodice and pants slopers for the Ken dolls. If you do a search for: "Good Foundations: Slim Bodice for Ken doll" (07/09/11)and "Good Foundations: Pants sloper for Ken dolls" (07/11/14). Not only will you find instructions as to how to make those basic patterns, but there are also videos to help you along.
The gap between the doll's legs don't really make a difference. When you are drawing that curve, it should slope gradually between the bottom of the crotch and the beginning of the pant leg. Even if the doll has an exceptionally long waist or a super broad shoulder line, the approach to making the sloper is the same. It's just that the finished pattern will look a bit different from the standard sloper. One word of caution....after you create the pattern, cut it back out in a cheap cotton, sew it together and try on the doll. Spend the extra time and make further adjustments if necessary and then make the definitive sloper and patterns. Once you get the sloper fitting perfectly, everything you draft with them will also come out perfectly!
Hi! I was wondering, why is it that most doll fashion patterns ( bought aswell as those who make their own to sell online) never fit the doll as the photos on cover show? I use a 1/4 foot and use muslin first but the garments are always too loose and fit poorly! I see why you make your own using the draping on doll, they probably fit much better. I guess they draft them. Its so frustrating to buy a ready made pattern and it doesn't fit! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI think the problem with doll patterns stems largely from the fact that within every family of dolls, there are numerous differences in dimensions. My Barbies have many different body types and my FR ladies do so as well. If you are buying patterns I think you must make adjustments. Yes, it does help that I often drape my dolls’ fashions. The advantage is that you see the design immediately coming to life. But here again, my girls love to wear each other’s clothing so I do have problems with fit.
DeleteAnd then there is one other issue...whether the garment will be lined or not! If the pattern maker assumes you will be lining the garment—something many people do—the pattern will be big on the doll. The thickness of fabric also makes a difference as well! Here’s a tip: when you are making your muslin, use a cotton that comes close to the weight of your actual fabric. Use fabric from an old T-shirt if the garment is stretchy.
If you are making a sloper to fit your doll—take your time and really make sure it fits. All the patterns you make will be a perfect fit as well. But if you have several types of dolls—even of the same famiy—be prepared to make slopers for each body type!
Some of the patterns i have, the finished garments are too large in areas on the doll, and the patterns do not mention lining. I can make adjustments, its just kind of annoying. Thank you for your reply!
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