Though a wide selection of dresses, hats, lithographs, photos and film clips chosen by Albert Elbaz, Lanvin's current designer, the visitor quickly discovers a woman, one of the first fashion entrepreneurs with a vision and a business plan. Like many female designers of the day, Lanvin began as a milliner then rapidly built a fashion empire (well before Chanel or Dior). Soon after setting up her hat shop in 1885, she married, purchased the building (which exists today) then in 1908, launched a line of childrenswear, apparel for young ladies and women, then added bridal wear, lingerie and finally menswear in 1926!
Jeanne Lanvin and daughter served as the basis for the company logo. |
Known for her use of artistic materials, embroidery, topstitching, spirals, cut-outs as well as the classic Art Deco codes of the day, her creations were quite modern and innovative.
"My Fair Lady" gown. White circular ribbon pattern on tulle. 1939 |
Black taffeta with Swarovski crystal beads. 1925 |
The fashions on display had quite a number of great ideas especially when it comes to embellishments. For this exhibition, I selected a dress entitled "Neptune" to recreate on Estelle, my model. The trick to transforming period costume into modern fashion is to borrow details from the original but translate the overall silhouette into modern aesthetics. The original is a loosely fitted, bias cut silk cocktail dress with fringe made from a skillful arrangement of long folded ribbons forming a spiral. I have not been always happy with the way these loose dresses look on my dolls, so I chose to cut a sheath dress, instead.
"Neptune" dress (and its interpretation) from Lanvin Fall 1926 collection. |
Black silk chiffon dress (l) with wavy embellishment & braided gold lamé. Brick coat (r) 1936. |
White satin wedding dress. 1929 |
Coming up right away..."Yves Saint Laurent 1971: Scandalous!"
Images of the Lanvin clothing by Katerina Jebb courtesy of the Palais Galliera.
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Location:Palais Galliera (Paris)
Hi April, these posts are extremely interesting, I admit I didn't know Jeanne Levine and I'm impressed by the design of these fashions. I believe that the 20's and 30's are the most interesting decades as far as contemporary fashions are concerned. In fact I have a soft spot for "all things 20's and 30's" from art, movies, jewellery and fashions!
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the YSL post!
Sorry for the delay in responding. Much to see & do while in Paris! Thank you, Billa. I totally agree with you about the 20's & 30's. These were really gracious years for all things fashion, Art & design. And there is so much we can use for inspiration especially when it comes to embellishments which I'd like to explore later. In the meantime, we'll be looking at some 40's inspiration with the next post!
DeleteAs always great doll designs and great fashion information!
ReplyDeleteThank you KQM. I always enjoy taking my friends with me to visit fashion shows & exhibitions!!
DeleteThe construction on the two doll dresses is fascinating. Making the first one a sheath does seem to work better than any likely fabric would work in the "sack" version. And so many ribbon loops!
ReplyDeleteThank you. I started to make the ribbon dress loose but was afraid it would devour her especially with all of the ribbon loops. Because the beads weigh the outer layer of the dress down on the other doll, this wasn't a problem.
DeleteHello April,
ReplyDeleteI found your blog through Pinterest. Thank you for the great fashion information and doll sewing tutorials. I love your blog!
Wandy
Welcome Wandy. We have a great time here when it comes to dolls & fashion. Come back as often as you like. There is never a shortage of ideas!!
DeleteI'd never heard of Lanvin before, and I'm glad I know about her now! Although, to be fair, I first learned about Dior because of Mrs. 'Arris Goes To Paris, which is one of my favorite Angela Lansbury movies.
ReplyDeleteI absolutely love the beading on your doll dresses! It goes so well with the lace. I feel dozens of tiny dolly eyes on me right now, and I know what my girls are thinking... that I have to give it a try, sooner rather than later. <3
Thank you, Sarah. To be honest, on the opening photo of this post, the dress on the left was made using beaded fabric. On the other hand, the dress on the right was made using a portion of an old camisole to which I added beads. It was my first attempt. I'd probably try to locate slightly smaller beads the next time. And you know, Sarah...dolls will be dolls. At some point we have to give them what they want!!! LOL!
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