Friday, November 25, 2016

Tipster3


Me and a small contingent of girls have been here in Paris for a few weeks. Unfortunately I fell ill to a bad cold and the girls--who have been scouring the stores and streets of this fashion capital-- have not found much they like, style wise. On the street, it's all about basics and in the designer store windows--pure fantasy and not the good variety. So, we figured we was long overdue to stop and offer another edition of Tipster! Here, we dissected the last catwalk trends to show you how to create the details that make those clothes special.


On the Fringe
One of the favorite looks was this dress and shorts with fringing on the edge. In making this outfit, I used two different techniques.

It's really very simple. For a straight edges (like the hem of the shorts), decide how deep you want the fringe. Make a machine stitch at that point, then remove the horizontal threads of the fabric. The machine stitch will keep it from unraveling beyond your chosen edge.

However, when it comes to a curved edge, we have to cheat a bit. Fabric will unravel on a grid, as depicted in the top photo.
So take a spare piece of fabric, make a stitch for the length of fringe you want, then remove the horizontal threads.
Cut your fringe away from the fabric, leaving a small 1/4" (3mm) allowance, then pin to the curved edge of your garment.
Stitch close to the edge. If the curve is steep, you may have to clip the curve so that it lays flat.


Grommets and Studs
This was another popular look that attracted a lot of attention because of the metal eyelets (also called grommets) and the tiny studs. "How do you put them in," I was asked. It took some doing, but I found a solution.

1. I used a grade school compass to help me with this. Slide the eyelet onto the needle.
2. With the eyelet on the needle, pierce the fabric.
3. Slide the eyelet in place and push through the fabric.
4. Using jewelry pliers, make a quick firm crimp.
5. On the right side this looks like this.
6. On the wrong side, the edge is folded in place if it's down properly.


Tiny studs are difficult to handle. 1. So I use jewelry pliers to place on the fabric.
2. Push through so you see the "teeth" on the wrong side.
3. Again, use the pliers to make a quick sharp crimp.

On Angelina's bolero, I used a combination of metal studs and pearl stickers. You could use metallic colored stickers instead of studs, just be aware that the stickers tend to fall away fairly easily.


Circles and Squares
The next trend we've been spotting for awhile are skirts and dresses with handkerchief points. Before I can show you how to make a handkerchief pointed hem, we must begin with the draft of a circle skirt.

While there are several ways to draft this skirt, I've chosen an old fashion technique I learned in school which begins with something called a "dartless sloper."

Here, we begin with the basic skirt sloper. Draw a vertical line down to the hem from the apex of the d'art. Then draw lines down from each dart leg to the hem to join the point of the vertical line. Finally, draw a line from the furthest point on the waist at the side down to the corner side point at the hem. Fold out the darts completely and cut away hip curve. Repeat for the back. We will use what's left as a guide.

1. Here is what our dartless skirt sloper looks like.
2. Divide this into 3 or 4.
3. Cut along those vertical lines almost (but not quite) to the waist edge.
4. Draw or create a 90 degree angle. Spread the skirt out so that the outer slats line up against the horizontal and vertical edges. Spread the other two slats evenly. Note the length from the waist to the hem and make dashes of equal lengths from the waist at the hem. When finished you can draw the curved line at the hem.
Repeat for the back.

5. My pattern thus far only represents 1/4 of the circle.
6. Place this quarter to the other side of the center front.
7. Repeat for the back. Add seam allowance to the horizontal edges as well as the waist edge.
For your waistband, you can use a small ribbon, however if you cut your own waistband, be sure to cut it on the bias (diagonally). It should be slightly longer than width of the waist (for overlap). Use hook and eye to close.

Here is my circle skirt in evening length. In making this pattern. I joined the pattern along one side seam to create a skirt with only one seam.

The only difference between a circle skirt and one with handkerchief points is that one is a circle while the other is a square.


Here, I've placed my circle skirt flat on the table, but squared off the edges.

The result is a skirt that is long in spots, short in others.You can exaggerate the points to create a more dramatic style. Your pattern doesn't have to be symmetric. This is a pattern you can really have fun with.


All images and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2016.

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28 comments:

  1. Fantastic! I wish I knew a little more about sewing so I could make some of these! I didnt quite understand the dartless slopper. Darn it!

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    1. The dartless sloper is essentially a skirt sloper with the darts folded completely away and the curve of the hip eliminated. Its purpose is solely for measuring purposes when you are making circle or even pleated skirts where maintaining the equal length between the waist & hem is important. You can also make a circle skirt by measuring the dolls waist, drawing a circle of the same circumference then marking the hem at equal lengths from that circle. I've had problems with accuracy with that method which is why I chose this one.

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  2. I am going to have to make some circle/square skirts. I like the way they look. Thank you for sharing all your creativity.

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    1. Thank you, Jaye. I also love circle skirts and those with handkerchief points as well. Have fun with your project!

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  3. Awesome!!! May I ask what size are those eyelets/grommets?

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    1. Thank you. The metal eyelets are 3mm. These are the smallest I've ever seen.

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  4. Ah, this post brings together some of my favourite looks! Love those silver dresses! I have to try your method for setting eyelets. I did the ol' hammer+screwdiver a couple of times before shelling out for an eyelet setter which I haven't tried yet T_T For studs, though, I prefer nail art bits. You can place them where you want, use what glue you want and you don't have to worry about prongs scratching the doll or pulling threads. You can find them in any shape and colour, even tiny spikes!

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    1. BlackKitty, I always enjoy your comments because you keep me on my toes! Thank you for your kind words. The grommets are so tiny and in my part of the woods, I have not found the usual tool used to set that came with a small enough point. Hence, the reason I came up with my own method. I'm not worried about scratching the dolls with the metal studs because I used them for a garment that goes over another garment or my fabric is thick enough so that the prongs bend back into the fabric. You can always opt to line the garment if you're really nervous about this. While I love gluing on studs, I haven't had much luck with them staying in place even when I use my own glue. I love your idea about the nail art but frankly, they don't sell anything of interest near me. I love your idea, for example, of using nail art for doll tattoos that you mentioned on your FB page and wanted to try it. I have searched high and low for something interesting with no luck. I wish I could find nail art with funky little stars and studs but have yet to find anything that comes close. And, while I'm at it, I've been looking for that 1.5mm ribbon here in Paris. Still no luck. Sounds like you've got some really cool stuff near you. Sadly, not the case for some of us. But I do appreciate your comments so keep them coming & I'll keep searching.

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    2. I'm glad you like my comments! I'll confess, that ribbon is the only good thing I found around here. All the cool stuff and my entire stash of nail art comes from Aliexpress and Bornpretty (except the eyelets, they are from Eyeletoutlet). They sell metal studs in any shape - stars, spikes, squares, teardrops... If you can't find that online, I'd love to mail you a little selection or buy something of your choice for you (they are usually really cheap). You can PM me on Facebook if you're interested :)

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    3. Thank you BlackKitty for those online references. As soon as I'm back in the US, I'll explore those websites. I'll also post them on the Resources tab here.

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  5. Hi April, all things are very beautiful <3

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    1. Thank you, Urszula. Happy you enjoyed this post.

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  6. Bardzo lubię niesymetryczne stroje! Są takie oryginalne, niebanalne!
    Twoje kreacje mnie zachwycają! Piękne fasony i materiały!
    Pozdrawiam Cię serdecznie!

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    1. I really like asymmetric dresses! There are original, original!
      Your creations delight me! Beautiful styles and materials!
      Greetings!
      Thank you Olla. For your kind words. I wanted to show that asymmetrical hemlines are fairly easy to do. I love interesting fabric. It transform any pattern into something sensational. Thank you for your visit.

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  7. I love your beautiful dolls (especialy this first one in silver dress!) Again you made so great outfits! I wish you all the best and good health! Pls take care about yourself :-)

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    1. Thank you, Aya, for your kind words and concern. There's a really nasty cold going around in Paris that is difficult to shake. I'm feeling much better now & trying to make up for lost time! I'm behind schedule on keeping up with everyone else's blog. But I'll catch up soon.

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  8. Your know your girls be rockin' the fashions!

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    1. LOL!! Thanks!! My girls be stylin' 24/7!!!!

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  9. Awesome tips. I'm going to use the stud tip and the circle skirt tips. Thanks.

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    1. Thank you, Vanessa. Happy to know the tips are useful.

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  10. Did you receive my comment on your blog ???? (Shasarignis )

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    1. Hi Shasarignis. I'm so sorry we're having these problems. I don't know why this is happening. Try again to leave a message using your name. I'll look out for it. If I don't see it, I'll contact you on FB tomorrow.

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  11. Great tips. Every time I come I want to settle in with fabric, or beads, or...

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    1. Thank you Jano. I try to make everything on this blog as tempting as possible. :D

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  12. Bonjour April, je t'envoie un commentaire à partir d'une tablette car je pense que c'est mon ordinateur qui a un problème.

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  13. Et ca marche!!!! Hooray!!!!! Je suis tres contente!!!!

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  14. Great tips. Every time I come I want to settle in with fabric, or beads, or...

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    1. Thank you and welcome to my blog. Happy to know you're inspired by what we're doing here. Merry Christmas to you!

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