Angel Food

I have been searching for something very special for quite awhile. Then one day, while surfing on Pinterest a photo caught my eye. Those long, draped sleeves trimmed in fur were simply....angelic!  I haven't quite found just the right fabric or trim. But those sleeves...oh those sleeves. And then a few months later, I spotted similar sleeves in a Proenza Schouler show. They were basically the same sleeves but scaled down somewhat. What both dresses have in common is that the sleeves really "make" the look. 

Okay, so what exactly is this sleeve? 

At its base, this is technically, an exaggerated trumpet sleeve. And since you are going to need the basic pattern to create the looks on this page, I am going to send you back to: "Return to Camelot,"  the detailed tutorial we did six years ago on drafting the basic trumpet sleeve. 

From there we can make a new design employing the proportions of choice. The instructions below is only a guide. Feel free to make your diva's angel wings as big as you desire. 

Let's get started. Head over to the link provided above for instructions on the draft of the basic trumpet sleeve. Once you have that pattern, proceed to the steps below.

1. Using the drafted pattern from that tutorial, you will end up with something resembling what I am holding. When you place the front to the back, everything should line up. 

2. Fold both the front and back sleeve down to the elbow line, and put them together. You end up with what looks like a circle. Be sure to draw a center line running from the middle of each sleeve to the hemline. 

3.  Using tracing paper (or trace over a light box), trace the center line and the perpendicular elbow (horizontal) line. Now, draw an oval, as big or long as you desire. This is the circumference of your trumpet sleeve. There is no "rule." This is a design decision you will make depending on the result you are looking for.

4. Take the original "front" pattern piece and lay it over the oval, lining it up with the elbow horizontal line. Then trace off the outer perimeter to create your new front sleeve pattern.

5. Repeat the same process for the back pattern, lining up the original basic pattern with the bottom part of the oval. 

6. The resulting pattern will resemble this. When you are sure everything lines up and is the desired proportions, add seam allowance for the final pattern.

And here... on the left, my oval was somewhat shallow. On the right, the oval quite a bit more spectacular. Note: the fabric you choose is also important. For this project, I used chiffon. A heavier fabric will result in a stiffer sleeve with less drape. How to finish the edges: With the image of the white gown (at the top of this page) in mind, instead of fur, I created a fuzzy finish by fringing the edges. (Click HERE to see how I did that.)  Once I finished the sleeves, I decided to fringe the edges of the rest of the dress as well. (And yes, that took some time!) 

I have a lot of divas who are anything but angelic! (LOL!!!) But used in a bolder application, I decided to get my inspiration from the garden with the addition of flowers. The sleeves are still trumpets, but tucked inside of the sleeves, I've tacked in petals from silk flowers. 

This is exactly the same sleeve as the softer dresses above. For this dress, I used a slightly thicker fabric (a thin crepe) which I flame sealed the edges. To the sleeves, I added petals of a silk flower which are discreetly tacked to the underside (near the elbow).

Here is another version of this dress. I have scalloped the edges of the trumpet sleeves and added a generous amount of petals to the underside of each sleeve. 

We're not entirely finished with the subject. In future posts, we explore other ideas for fancy red carpet sleeves. 

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Fringe Benefits 2.

You cannot think of fringe without thinking of vintage--an ongoing trend that often sends fashionistas to second hand shops and flea markets. You can wear fringed garments as is for a theme party or...you can come make a few modifications to bring the look up to the present norms of high fashion. While putting together this, the second part of my project, I kept that idea in mind especially after Monster Crafts left a comment stating how she normally doesn't care for fringe..except perhaps for accessories! As usual I had so much fun putting this post together!

In the early days of this blog, I did a post in honor of the film "Great Gatsby" which is set in the Roaring Twenties. And of course I made a cute little dress for one of my Barbies. The original dress is a strapless sheath with five rows of evenly spaced 1-3/4" (33mm) silk fringe. I still like this dress, but I have noticed how around the holidays none of my dolls are requesting to wear this dress. So for this post,  I decided to make a somewhat more modern version.

Built on the base of a one shouldered mini dress with the same l-3/4" silk fringe, what makes this dress interesting are the rows of fringe falling at an angle.

 1. Again, the dress is quite simple...a one shouldered sheath dress. Be sure with your choice of fabric and color because as the fringe moves, the fabric will peak out from underneath. I've used a matching midnight blue taffeta for the underdress. Then using chalk, I marked guild lines for where I would be sewing on the rows of fringe. For you to really see a slant, the rows must be place at a 45 degree angle. When you get to the side seam, the row of fringe reverses its course upwards, again at a 45 degree angle. Note: around the top of the dress, the top row of fringe goes from front to back, ending at the back center back (where the closure is.
2. Start from the bottom and work up, being careful not to catch the strands of fringe in your stitches.
3. Unless you want the top of the fringe to show, it is a good idea to cover it.
4. I used a bias cut strip of the same my underdress.
5. You can also embroider or add beads, ribbon or glitter to that edge as well. On Anna's dress, I added beads for a couture touch.
6. The dress closes in the back on a slant. I used a hook and eye.

Another way of modernizing the classic 1920's dress, is by choosing a novelty fringe. Nadja's dress is exactly the same as Anna's, except for the fringe which is a mix of knitted silk yarn and crystals. I've belted the dress to give it more shape.

 You can also use a long rows of fringe to create a more modern dress! I found this lovely 3-3/4" (92mm) silver fringe which was perfect for this Versace Couture inspired dress.

 1. The under dress in this case, is a simple, fitted sheath. It is best to use a woven fabric so that the dress doesn't stretch while you sew on the trim. I have drawn in (red) a new, halter neck neckline.
2. After cutting away the excess, the silhouette looks like this.
3. After you put in the seam allowance the pattern looks like this.
4. Cut a piece of bias fabric the width of the neckline. Add 1/4" to the width and seam allowance.
5. For this dress I made an "over collar" out of leather. The fringe is sewn or glued into the bottom of this collar and the whole thing is sewn to the under collar of the dress.

1. The fringe is added to the dress at the points indicated above (just over the bust, at the bustline and again at the waist.
2. The dress can be worn loose as seen here.
3. It swings freely all over the dress including the back! But it can also be belted for a totally different look.

Of course you don't have to use fringe all over the dress. Think of it as a trim. And, think of layering it at the hem of a gown for example.

This Chanel inspired dress is a simple sheath with spaghetti straps (and a good dose of glitter over the silver lurex fabric). The original dress called for faux fur at the hem, but I wanted to play up the silvery aspect of the look, so I added six rows of 1" (25mm) silver fringe upwards from the hem. Since the top of the fringe is decorative, I left it in full view. But if you are using fringe where the top portion is not so press, you can make the dress shorter. Add trim to a width of fabric, then join it to the hem of the dress so that dress overlaps the top layer of fringe.

Novelty trim--especially when it's fringe--is always fun to play with. It doesn't swing and sway the way silk fringe or cut fringe does, but it lends a playful look to the garment. For this dress, I decided to make an entire party dress.

1. Here's my fringed trim. It has little bits and pieces to it. I decided to make this dress in two parts: camisole top and the skirt. Either item can be paired with another garment.
2. For this look, I started out by making a lace, 1-piece camisole. This is because the trim by itself doesn't cover the doll's bust. So I thought it would be nice to have a bit of lace peeking out from under the frou-frou. A single row of trim is use, facing UPWARDS, from center back seam, around the front and to the opposite center back seam is sewn in place. You can use snaps to close the top.
3. For the skirt, I cut a simple straight (mini) skirt. I use a row of trim instead of a waistband. Another row in the middle and a final row above the hemline to create the skirt. I have purposely left space in between each row so that you can see the gold stripe on the top of each row of fringe peaking through! If you are going to line this, you should make the lining separately and stitch it to the backside of the first row of trimming.

Awhile back we featured a dress inspired by a Ralph & Russo gown.

What we liked about this 2-pc dress is how the fringe was used to accent this asymmetrical look. Since I didn't have access to pink fringe, I had to make it myself by threading the edge along the hem and around the armhole with lightweight cord that I knotted myself. I decided to make a more simple version of this dress to share with you.

The top is a one-shouldered top. (The tutorial is HERE). The bottom is a draped sarong skirt.

1. This skirt begins with the basic straight skirt sloper. You will need to trace it to the other side to have the full front. About 1/8" (5mm) down from the waist on the upper right tip of the front, make a mark. The next four marks should be about 1/4" of each other. Make one single mark on the left side of the skirt sloperabout 2-1/2" (6.5 cm) down from the waist. Join the marks on the right side to the left side mark.
2. Slash all but the bottom right side mark within 1/8" of the mark on the left side. Move the slashes, placing them 1/4" between each other. Tape down.
3. Trace the outer silhouette as well as the dart on the left side. Be sure to mark the slash lines on the right side. They will serve as guide lines to make folds.

4. Draw a style line, scoping out an area of the skirt as shown here. Cut that area away.
5. Now create your front sarong pattern by adding seam allowance.

6. The back of the skirt is simply the back sloper with seam allowance.

7. Cut your skirt out in fabric. Stitch the back together, leaving space near the waist. Create pleats on the right side of the skirt front and stitch them down in the seam allowance. Join the left side of the skirt front to the back.
8. Join the left side of the skirt together with the back, folding the back seam over the front. Pin, then hand stitch in place.
9. Fold the hem up and the edges under and hand stitch in place.
10. Attach the fringe along one edge of the skirt within the area as shown (green dotted line). Make the bodice. For instructions as to how to make a one-shouldered top, click HERE.  Finish the edges, and add fringe around the armhole from front to back as shown above (green line).

All by itself, it is quite a lovely dress!

However, you are not obliged to make a fringed garment to give your dolls this look. Think--fringed shawl!!! 

Helena has a shawl made from the same flocked wool as her dress trimmed in long silk fringe. It's a great way to take your doll from day to night in a snap.

For this particular shawl, I cut a triangle that has two sides the length 7-3/8" (19cm) while the base is 13" (33.5 cm).

I added 3-1/2" (9cm) black silk fringe. In this case, I didn't want the top of the fringe to show, so I overlapped the lower edge of the shawl over the woven top of the fringe trim.

I almost decided not to line the shawl, but then had a bright idea. I lined it with a contrasting fabric in the same tones. It's like having two shawls in one.

Akure immediately borrowed it to wear over her dress. The tie print silk of the reverse side of the shawl matches her skirt!

Whenever I travel, I try to check out antique fairs, flea markets and the like for interesting vintage lace. I didn't find this piece there, but I did find a "remnant" in a high fashion fabric store in Paris' Marche St. Pierre. I almost forgot I had it. From this marvelous remnant, I cut away one of the motifs--wide enough to go over the shoulders of a special doll. I added the silk fringe to edge and voila---a gorgeous embroidered shawl with fringe.

 Even if you are not so lucky as I was to find such a treasure, you can make your own. Start with a bit of lace and add beads, rhinestones or even silk flowers to it.

But be warned....this could be the most popular accessory in the house!!! Right on Morgan's heels was Tiah who HAD to have this shawl for her night out at the opera. The black shawl really shows up when paired with a golden gown!!! But even she wasn't able to hold onto this beauty for a long time. Samantha showed up asking if she could borrow it for an impromptu evening sarong!

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Dolls Eye View: Paris F/W 19 Trends: Part 1

Vive la France! Vive Paris! The girls landed in the fashion capital looking for something special and Paris did not disappoint. In fact, there were so many ideas, we decided to split this  report into two posts. What is so wonderful about Paris is there is something for everybody. In this Part 1, we look at the simple, more sober, mostly daytime styles in neutral tones. We'll also look at edgier, more colorful side of Paris fashion but for now, let's take a look as some dynamic looks you dolls might want next Fall.

Livin' Large

The first thing you will notice about the Paris collections is that silhouettes have fattened up. We see more width in the shoulders, A-line shapes swinging freely from marked waists as well as wide, loose trousers.a la Katherine Hepburn in the 1930's.  Maxi-length coats, swash-buckling capes, great big faux furs and overstuffed parkas are all favorite looks that will be keeping dollies warm in face of blustery, polar vortex assaults.

Keep dolly warm with a hunk of faux fur! Harking back to the 1980's, fur coats over jeans is the best way to get a casual chic look. This look can be as easy as simply taking a big rectangle of supple faux fur and wrapping it around dolly's shoulders. But for Latoya, I took the faux fur coat I made back in Milan layered it with a matching long vest on top. 

Coat of Arms

More so than any other winter season, there was a good array of coats on the Paris catwalks. Most are long, ample and wrap comfortably around the body. In fact, the wrap coat belted at the waist is the best way to go. Also look for A-line coats especially those cut in silk and worn over cocktail length dresses!

Crosswalk

In the path of glen plaids, checks, tweeds and other menswear fabric, we see oversized windowpane plaids making a comeback. Again, this is a revival of late 1970's when patterns were quite popular and worn in all-over effects. Notice this "total look" where everything matches or...positive/negative plaids are worn in the same garment.

Normally, I am not a fan of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the current designer for Christian Dior. But I saw potential in the design and thought it could be fun for doll fashion. I could not find a corresponding plaid in 1/6 scale, so I cut up an old pair of my dad's pajamas and made this oversized "bathrobe" style coat with the frayed hem for Veronica. I thought a lace skirt was prettier than the net used in the original. The added plus is that bulk along the waist created by the lace skirt forced the coat into a distinct A-line silhouette which, in my opinion, is a tad bit more interesting than the one designed by Ms. Chiuri.

Skin Flicks

Once again....leather will be in abundance next Fall. There are, of course, the usual blazers, jackets, skirts and pants, worn in monochromatic ensembles or under a crisp, plaid jacket.

However, the outfit that caught Anna's eye is this "Darth Vadar" ensemble...a flared skirt with a leather cape tossed over the shoulders. I used a faux leather-like fabric to make the skirt. But for the cape, I did use real leather because it's grain adds a richness to the overall look. If you don't have access to leather or faux leather, you can always use a heavy black satin which will provide a similar effect. The hat is not perfect because I used a synthetic felt instead of 100 percent wool. And I didn't have the time to make a proper hat form. So I improvised and was thrilled with the overall look. Looking for her gloves? Look here.

The Long & Short of It

Also recalling the 1970's mini-maxi fashions is this lineup. Today, super short and extra long hemlines co-exist on Parisian catwalks. Look for ankle length silhouettes in both basic and Japanese complex designs as well as short, curvy dresses and jackets!

Katarina has such a serine, almost anti-establishment look, I thought she would be the perfect model to pull off the androgynous look of Japanese icon, Yohji Yamamoto. There is something absolutely fascinating about his clothes. They are like little puzzles which led me to search for a way to create a simplified version suitable for a 1/6 scale doll. Katarina's dress was made from a coat pattern with an extended, triangular front. I made a slit in one side seam and stuffed one side into the hole. This is worn over a slim skirt. The ensemble is made from a lightweight sweater knit.

Oh, I couldn't stop there. Katoucha's dress is really a cardigan sweater with a scarf that was draped and stitched in place over the shoulders. I decided to keep the skirt simple instead of the multi-tiered skirt of the original to cut down on bulk.

Digital Noise

If I had tweed on hand, I would have made more than one from this group. I love the early 1960's loose jackets and dresses cut from this menswear tweed. Nonetheless, since the Barbies have been reminding me to make fashion for them, I decided on the Mugler outfit, a crisp white jacket over a scrambled printed skirt and skinny pants.

For Gloria's outfit, I used a black and white patterned fabric polyester for the slim pants and gathered mini shirt. Over it---a long, princess line jacket in stark white.

Champs Elysees

Sleek, chic with understated elegance...this a theme that is quintessentially Parisian. Black, white or a combination of both, we're talking impeccably cut classics that never go out of style. These are looks you will use over and over to dress dolly.

Simple to make, stunning to wear, this is the easiest way to wear Chanel, Stephani's top is a simple bodice with sleeves (basic sloper with added seam allowance) cut from black sequins. Her trousers are wide and straight, pleated into the waistband with pockets added in the side seams.

Basic Instinct

It all comes back to basics! Simple (not so little) black dresses with interesting neckline treatments.

If you can knit, this is a beautiful, two piece cable knit dress to make. But if you can't (like me), make it from a sock.

The body of Nadja's dress is a tube that I've cut from a single sock. I've added spaghetti straps (made from embroidery yarn). Over it: a micro-sweater or "shrug"--a small strip of knit with sleeves at each end that rides over the bustline. 

Day to Night

Black and white--a theme normally reserved for springtime, has popped up for winter wear. This theme is a culmination of other major looks of the season: the wider trousers, A-line silhouettes, and structured styles--all sketched out in a contrast of graphic black and white.

Hey, we're just getting started. There's more to come and it's in.....living color!!! Stay tuned for Paris F/W'19 Trends: Part 2!!!

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