Dolls Eye View: Milan Fall 22 Trends

 

There wasn't enough collections of interest in London so the girls headed straight for Milan. They didn't find lots of clothes, but what they found were very special pieces. Instead of doing a lot of clothes, we chose to spend the time recreating what we thought would be keepsake fashion. 

Pretty Young Things

These are very simple, very pretty, early Autumn looks. It consists of an elongated jacket (wool or leather) buttoned over a soft, curvy short skirt. We love the simplicity and ease of this look!

This look for me, is about styling. Me and Natasha love the idea of a long daytime jacket buttoned over a flirty little evening wear skirt. I didn't fashion my jacket after the ones in the photo. Instead I took one I had already made. It is a basic grey wool fitted blazer with frayed edges. I did make a skirt for this. It is a series of a series of grey sheer squares turned on the diagonal, each point stitched together onto a grey lace waistband. The possibilities are limitless. Think about blazers teamed with lace or tulle skirts. You can even take this to another level by making the jacket in evening fabrics: silk, satin, brocade or metallic for the jacket and anything sheer for the skirt.

Livin' Large

As the weather gets colder, silhouettes get longer, looser and wider. Note the volume of the trousers and the fullness of the jackets. Even larger...the swash-buckling coats with scarves tossed over the shoulders. 

You can take any full coat and add a scarf to get this look. Here we took a swing coat to toss over the shoulders of Nadja. But instead of using the same fabric for the scarf, we chose a matching patterned silk to recreate the soft folds of the original Fendi coat. 

Animal Rites

Faux fur is always a logical choice for winter fashion. But you can also think of using fur or animal prints in touches. The girls LOVED Fendi's modern rendition of an early 1920's elongated silhouette topped with rows of shaggy fur trim tacked onto a shawl. And if we had access to a similar animal spotted print, we would have made that sensational Roberto Cavalli jacket over tights. But you don't have to use all of that to get into the spirit of this group. Animal print boots with a little black dress looks just as on point as the rest!

Belle really love the retro look of this dress and shawl. She refused to let me make it in any other color but grey and black, even though I didn't find a sock with the cable knit to mimic the look of the original outfit. Her dress is a simple stretch sheath over which I made a simple shawl. I cut 1/8 inch (5mm) front rows from a piece of shaggy black faux fur (found in a craft store). I lined the outer edge with the trim and then made diagonal rows over the surface of the shawl. I love the finished lok even though I am not so thrilled with the knit from the sock I cut up to make this. It didn't occur to me until I was nearly finished that I could have (and should have) used any other fabric to create the same look. The appeal of this dress is that it has a casual elegance by using a knit. However, it could be equally as gorgeous (or even more so), if you recreate it in a fancier fabric!

Straight Up

We've started noticing a trend towards narrow, long silhouettes, be their skirts and tops or pantsuits. Jackets are cut close to the body. Hemlines are heading south. And pants, though somewhat loose, are  everywhere. 

It is, however, difficult for my girls to leave Italy without something from Giorgio Armani and this trip was not exception. He is still doing his refined tailor jackets, but for next fall, Armani has loosened up and presents a more easy to wear elegant lines. Priya couldn't resist the look of a simple silk sarong top work over sequinned trousers. 

The Dark Side

With all of the serious things happening around us, it is no surprise to see a "heavy" sense of fashion trends that border on Goth. What makes this look work, however, is the layering of textures and treatments--matte corset over a matching tunic topping shiny vinyl; a bomber jacket with hardware on the sleeves worn over a bandeau top and men's trousers.... 

Samantha loves these edgy styles. She chose this Versace ensemble. We thought the dress could be a little more interesting. So instead of a basic dress with swollen shoulders, we went with a kimono wrap dress with dolman sleeves pushed up with opera length gloves. We cut the corset pattern a little wider than usual. We then created columns of tucks from the center out.  Each tiny column of  fabric is pinched on the exterior and stitched. 

In the original photo, it appears the model is wearing vinyl tights. Our vinyl wasn't as stretchable, so we settled for well fitted stovepipe pants. 

Nite Clubbin'

A twilight extension of the above group, we remain in the black but with lots of dark sparkle. Think black sequins, beads and even black shiny vinyl. This can be as small as a bare midriff top and shiny skinny pants or a full fledged warrior outfit exploding with sequins of different sizes and shapes.

As soon as we spotted this dress, the challenge was on. I loved that there was so much going on here. Almost like a collage of different shapes and sizes. I began with a simple A-line dress made from a sheer fabric dotted sparsely with flat sequins. I then added rows of sequins looped from the center front to either side of the dress. From the waist down, I patched in a few rows of rectangular sequins. One sleeve was cut from a piece of mini-sequinned fabric, while the other sleeve was cut from vinyl. I added some seed beads around the hemline and looped bugle beads over one shoulder. For her footwear...we felt there should be nothing less than thigh high shiny vinyl boots! 

One more stop ahead..... The girls finish out fashion month in Paris!  A bientôt!!!

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Doll's Eye View: Milan Spring/Summer 2021 Trends

The girls were happy to be back in Milan because, and as expected, there were a lot more choices even within the confines of more simplified silhouettes. That said, this report took me longer to create than anticipated.  At first glance, the girls' choices looked great as groups. But once I took on the task at bringing them alive, I discovered there were challenges. With so many basic looks, there was the temptation to fall into my usual mode of "glamming" up the look with a deluge of accessories or bling. I had to remained focused on keeping the garments simple and easy, yet not falling into the black hole of boredom. Each look required a lot of thought. Some I had to try on several girls to ensure the right look was presented on a model who conveyed just the right spirit. 

Easy Does It

The opposite of stretch dresses and skinny jeans, are these free and easy clothes: wide trousers and jumpsuits, full skirts, loose fitting tunics and kimonos tossed over the shoulders. Again, there are no fireworks here, just a retreat to a former time when clothes were designed to make the wearer look and feel good without needless artifice. 

On a hot summer day, this is the way we look chic but keep our cool. Radiah is wearing a day-to nightfall look featuring a white tank top and straight legged trousers wrapped with a sheer printed mid-calf tunic. (I used the fabric from a cheap chiffon scarf for her tunic.)

 Ventilation Nation

Even though there are lots of looks that cover up considerable areas of the body, expect to see flashes of flesh here and there thanks to peek-a-boo detailing and openwork fabrics.  Look for LOTS of bare midriff tops and even bras to be big next summer!

Short Story

Shorts, miniskirts, pretty little dresses, prepare to let your ladies show off lots of leg! Again, there are lots of options: hip-length tops over shorts, bra-shorts-shirts, mini coats and tent dresses!

Vanessa wears a tent dress suspended from spaghetti straps and belted at the waist. This took no time to make (the edges are hand-rolled and stitched). Though pretty...I wondered if it was too "boring" to include in this report. But at the end of the day, the next spring/summer fashion season will be understated, comfortable yet designed to make our ladies feel good and pretty. 

Bare Essentials

There will be no burning of the bra next summer. On the contrary, the bra comes out of hiding and bare midriff tops take center stage! Look for them to be worn with everything from short-shorts and pegged legged pants to full length sarongs! By the way...the girls also love the kaleidoscope of fresh printed fabrics!

It's Chrissie's first modeling job and for her, we chose this shorts set cut from a colorful cotton print. She wanted to add a few finishing touches so we added a big straw hat, a silk shirt (borrowed from the dude dolls, and great big Tiffany blue bag. 

In the Flesh

This is a color story. Look for rosy beiges, sometimes layered in monochromatic palettes of varying fabrics. Again, take a close look....everything is simple, loose, comfortable and very easy to wear (and make for dolly!) 

A bare-midriff look for the most sophisticated doll! But here's the problem.... I love the ease of this look, but when scaled down to 1/6 proportions, the top is not going to fall the way it does on her full scale counterpart. I began by changing the top completely, but lost the initial look and feel that had attracted Yvette's attention. So, instead of suspending the top from spaghetti straps, I took the basic bodice, cut it short, ignored the darts, flared the sides slightly..and added a second layer. I captured the look but felt was a bit "empty" as a look....which is why I added a matching coat....for those cool spring nights! 

New Green Deal

Again, this is another color story that includes a spectrum of tones ranging from kakis to forest green. There are "fashion staples" here: classic shorts and shirts, narrow (but not sausage tight) dresses. We're back in the age of clothing designed to allow the body underneath to breathe! Dresses that are simple but have just enough verve to give them a hint of sass! 

Urban Scrawl

This is a theme you'd expect to see in London. It's raw, it's urban with a rebellious undercurrent. The edges and hems are rough cut. It's hand painted, almost like graffiti on a brick wall. Together with the dresses made from ribbons of fabric, belted at the waist or the tie dye sarong skirt worn with corset....there is a youthful, unconventional vibe here suggesting a DIY (do-it-yourself) movement spurred on by lock-downs in the age of CoVid. 

I wanted to make the ribbon dress, but didn't have any suitable ribbon or non-fray fabric, so instead, I made this ensemble designed by Marni. Nichelle immediately gravitated to this 3-piece ensemble: bare midriff top and narrow skirt etched with "ethnic" stripes (freehand, irregular stripes). Over it all is a canvas coat tagged with images and graffiti in the same color palette. The original outfit has rough cut edges and hems which I "cleaned up. I did this because with the "handmade" stripes and print, the outfit would look too "amateur" for the look I wanted to achieve. 

Tutti Fruiti

Whether your dolls like it short and sweet or long and lean, one thing is for sure...there are plenty of looks drenched in thirst-quenching fruity colors...lemon, graph, tangerine, lime, orange, fruit punch. After so many seasons of neutrals, this is a refreshing and much needed change!

Charlize loved every look in this group. But mostly...she liked the idea of a great big hot pink blouse worn over a simple pair of black shorts. Though I was able to match the color (very important to me), I missed the mark on the volume. Here's what happened... Charlize tried on a silk shirt from one of the guys which I thought had the right silhouette. So that's the pattern I used. What I had not taken into consideration was the thickness of my fabric. The original is in silk taffeta, but my fabric was a polyester faille with a lot of body. By the time I finished the shirt and put it on the doll, the volume withered away. And what was supposed to be a great big shirt, turned into a pretty little evening coat. It's still nice, but not exactly what I wanted. Should I make this again, I will need to make a new pattern with LOTS more volume. This is a prime example of why it is always good to make a toile in a cheap fabric before cutting into the final fabric for the definitive garment!

Jean-Etics

Most of us have been wearing jeans everyday for the better part of this year. So why wouldn't denim be one of the themes for next summer...when we hope to emerge from this pandemic. The many "colors" of denim--from washed light blues to indigo-- are on display in the form of pantsuits, dresses, jackets and coat-dresses.

Lui loved everything she saw, but opted for this monochromatic pantsuit. The jacket is a classic blazer with studded with metal eyelets and worn over a cotton Tshirt and "taffeta" straight cut trousers...all in the same washed blue tone.

Victor, Victoria

Next to bra tops and bare midriffs, pants will be a major fashion force next spring. The range of offerings spans the gamut of girly looks cut from semi-sheers and soft rayon blends and curvy jackets and a pantsuit cut from striped shirt fabric to menswear trousers and tailored jackets adapted for her needs.

So for Emanuela, this was an easy choice. We took a white linen blazer and teamed it with matching wide trousers and a cropped sweater top that shows a sliver of flesh. 

In Stark Contrast

This is a popular black and white theme that remains a spring favorite. It's a go-to look for my girls that while simple, always packs a punch. 

Though the curvy little cha-cha dress sparked lots of interest among my girls, Nadja was drawn to this black pantsuit wrapped with a white cloak. I loved the overall look of this, however, the original "wrap" lacked structure thus resembling more like a bed sheet with armholes. And, by the way, none of us liked the holes in the sleeves. (It looks like the well worn sleeves of a sweater I should toss out, but insist on wearing because it is so comfortable!) So, the wrap I made for Nadja is, in effect a sort off-the-shoulder cape. I added a picture collar and frayed the edges as well as the hem. I also shortened it a bit which I felt look more like spring.

In the Black

Black is always a go-to color in my house and next summer.....the beat goes on. All the many "colors" of black are here. Whether its a long top over a pair of shorts or a two-piece dress with lots of pockets, everything is worn as is, without the need for glitz or glam. So simple. Purely chic

If I were 18 or 20 years old, I would definitely wear this. But I'm not, so I won't, however Shakira offered to wear it for me. It's very simple yet such a stunning look. The top is from the basic bodice sloper, cut short under the bust. (I did, however, scoop out the shoulders.)  On the bottom: hip-rider, boot-cut pants in jersey with a small leather "belt" holding up the dropped hipline. Other than the small gold chain around her waist....nothing else is needed. The look speaks for itself.

Prints Charming

As was the case in New York, there are soft silhouettes in pretty prints here in Italy. Instead of the more flamboyant garden variety, we see more abstract prints and subtle patterns in neutrals or muted colors. One thing is clear.....silhouettes remain loose, feminine and super comfortable.

There are lots of ways to go here, but Bella, one of our new models, went for the Giorgio Armani jumpsuit with full, palazzo pant legs. It's cut from a silky polyester black and white floral print with a chiffon scarf wrapped around the halter neckline then tied into a soft bow in the back.

As much as I do enjoy seeing how close to the original garment I can get with my needle and thread, there are times when  I take liberties. While I love the sheer print over the black sheath dress in the original look, I was beginning to get a tad bit bored. So.... over Grace's little black dress, I made a simple kimono cut from a sheer print zapped with bits of silver foil, here and there. And though I had originally put silver pumps on Grace, she reminded me there was a wonderful pair of metallic fabric boots on the shelf! The moral of the story--- when silhouettes are this simple, have fun. Let the basic look serve as a springboard to your own creative story! 

We have one more fashion capital to explore. Paris Fashion Week comes up next! It might take awhile to pull it all together, but stay tuned. We'll be back soon. Mask up. Stay safe! 

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When Puppets Rock the Catwalk...

While the girls are busy finishing up after a brief stint at New York fashion week, we received news from our overseas crew about a eye popping event in the Italian fashion capital of Milan. Instead of an in-person catwalk show, Moschino, a house known for its edgy and tongue-in-cheek fashions, presented their Spring Summer 2021 collection on puppets instead of humans! Some 40 looks were "walked" by a cabine of 30-inch (75cm) puppets within a setting resembling the hush interiors of an haute couture salon. When Jeremy Scott, the American born, artistic director of the Italian house realized an in-person show would be a challenge during an ever persistent pandemic, he decided to take a more whimsical route by staging a puppet show instead. “The best thing I could do for everyone who is stressed about the election, the pandemic, social unrest, and the future was to give the gift of fantasy and take us away from all of it for a few minutes; let us enjoy this little fashion world of ours,” Scott explained in a recent interview. Inspired by Dior's iconic "Theatre de la Mode," the services of Jim Henson's "Creature Shop" (the artists responsible for the renowned Muppets) were retained. They created "models' fashioned after the designer's favorite girls and an assortment of other figurines representing prominent editors seated in the front row. As for the clothes themselves, each one is an exact replica of a full scale garment designed for humans. Every fabric, every accessory, every detail of the life size garments had to be scaled down to fit the bodies of the marionettes. 

Photo: Moschino.com

To give you an idea of scale. Photo: Moschino.com

In an interview (click on the link to view) with CNN Style, Jeremy Scott provides a glimpse behind the scenes and describes what it was like to bring his puppet show to life. 

The full setting was created right down to the editors seated in the front row. Photo: Moschino.com

Though me and the girls have not yet begun our fashion reports for the Spring/Summer 2021 season, we all agreed to share this show with our friends immediately. Inasmuch as these miniature clothes are already shown on half-scale dolls, I have decided to let you savor them as presented in lieu of replicating any of them myself. So sit back, relax, pour yourself a glass of champagne or a cup of tea and enjoy a puppet show like you've never seen before. Afterwards, you can take your time and peruse each outfit as I have posted all of the still photos below. 

Video and photos: Moschino

There's even a puppet of the designer who takes his bow after the show! Photo: Moschino

All photos and video courtesy of Moschino

We'll be back shortly with a Doll's Eye View of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021.