Shoe Biz 6: Giving Her the Boot

I will tell you right now... My girls don't believe in sticking their little plastic toes anywhere near snow, sleek, ice or rain... So if you've come here looking for Doc Martin's, snow boots or galoshes...you've in the wrong place! This post is all about high fashion boots using non-stretch materials. This can be anything from leather and vinyl to wool or silk.

Just like in the case of the last post, this footwear begins by creating a pattern right on the doll's leg. But instead of using T-shirt stretch fabric, we'll be using muslin or cotton. I am providing two options that you can make in any length--from ankle grazing to thigh-high. Think about the possibilities...any outfit dolly has can be accessorized with matching boots!!!

The first pattern is  a simple boot with a seam down the front and down the back. The advantage with this design is that it is super easy to make and conforms beautifully to the contour of the leg.

If you allow a bit of ease, the doll's foot slips right in without the need for zippers or other closures.

Moreover, you can create a plethora of looks and even work that center front seam into the design of the boot. Take my "jeans" boot for example. I added top stitching, tiny "jeans" pockets and even a chain!

1. We begin by creating the first pattern in cotton muslin. Use two small pieces and pin so that the leg is caught in the middle. That is to say, the two pieces of muslin is joined together by a row of pins placed along the center front of the leg. Then pin along the center back. Check to make sure the doll can remove her foot from the boot. Adjust the pins if necessary.

2. Mark both sides of the muslin from the top right down to around the sides of the foot.
3. Remove the pins and smooth the lines. Cut away the excess fabric, leaving a margin around the lines. Pin back together and put this on the doll's leg again.

4. Check the fit again. If there are discrepancies, use another colored pencil to make the corrections so that you know which line to respect for the pattern.
5. Remove from the doll again. Smooth out the lines.
6. Transfer to paper.

 7. You now have two sides for this pattern but what you want to do is to consolidate them into a single piece. Lay one side over the other and adjust any discrepancies by drawing a new line in the middle. You want each side to be equal without adding or subtracting volume.
8. Once you are satisfied with the results, complete your pattern by adding seam allowance.
9. We want to make sure this fits, because you will be using this pattern quite often. So using your new pattern, cut it out in muslin and baste together.
10. Turn right side out and press.
11. Just to give you an idea of what this could look like, I placed a sole against the bottom. Voila our boot! Note: You may have to make adjustments depending on the thickness of the material. If you use medium weight leather or a heavyweight canvas, for example, be prepared to expand the seams 1/16" (2mm). Add your soles and dolly's off to the races!

I've been so happy with my results, I decided to give a new life to some older footwear I created awhile ago for my previous footwear posts! .

Originally these taffeta boots started out as spats before I turned them into boots using soles I cut away from Barbie shoes. I removed those soles and added on my own.

What happens if you are working with a material that has a motif you don't want to break up with a seam? What happens if you want a sleeker, smoother look in the front? That's where the second option comes to play.

This design is cut in one piece but has a "vamp" (a wedge over the foot). Remember, you are working with a non stretch material and the foot will start to curve at the ankle to the toes. So we will need to slash the pattern at the top of the foot and add on a vamp.

We begin the way we did with the last boot. Only this time, we use a single swatch of muslin to start. Since I wanted to make some thigh high boots, I made my pattern as such. You can always cut it down later when you want to make a shorter boot.

1. Take the single swatch and make a vertical line which you will lay along the center front of the doll's leg. Pin the muslin down the center back of the leg, again, allowing for ease so that the doll can get her feet out of the boots. Where the foot curves away from the leg, cut a V-shape over the foot.
2. Cut a square out of muslin that will fit over the foot.
3. Drape it over the foot and pin together on the bottom.

4. I wanted my toe to come to a point so I planned for that.
5. Now, fold the top part of the boot over this foot piece. Pin in place.
6. Mark both the upper part and where it meets with the toe piece.
7. Transfer everything to paper and create your pattern. Take special care the toe piece blends with the seam allowance on the boot.

You have some options here. If you are really good at sewing and are working with a thin enough material, you can sew the vamp onto the boot. This means, of course, you know how to do 90 degree angle seams. If you do this, be sure to glue the seams up and iron flat (before you sew up the back leg seam). Just note there is the potential for bulk! I have added interfacing over the top of the foot to maintain structure since the boot is made of denim. This might not be necessary when working with thicker materials.

But you can simply lay the wedge on top of the boot and glue or stitch in place.

In this instance I treated the vamp as a sort of applique. This is flocked wool. (Note: I made this first as spats. For this project I decided to make another pair out of the same fabric as over-the-knee boots.) I added a bit of fray check (craft glue also works) to keep the edges from going awry. I laid the vamp over the bottom of the boot front then stitched it in place by hand before eventually adding on the sole.

Remember that fancy shawl we made earlier this summer. Now Helena has a pair of boots to match!

This is the type of footwear you'd find in fancy luxury shops all over the world. So feel free to use anything you'd like for boots! You might have to make a few adjustments, though...

This is "bejeweled" organdy. It is a sheer fabric but is so gorgeous, I couldn't help but make a pair of shoes from it. When working with sheer fabrics, you will need to use a lining. Here, the lining joins the top of the boot (so the top edge is perfectly finished). Turn the boot right side out and press. The top will be finished but the sides and bottom of the boot won't be. Baste along the side and bottom edges to hold everything in place so it stays in place as you work. Lining side up, fold the boots and stitch along the back center seam as usual. Press that seam then turn the boot right side out. Add the interfacing (I chose a tiny piece of black card stock). As for the vamp (that tiny wedge over the foot)....it too needs to be lined. Stitch it together along the two top edges. Turn right side out and baste long the lower two edges. Then place the vamp the bottom of the boot (right side up) and hand stitch in place. Add the soles. For these boots I used my 18 gauge silver wire for the stilettos. 

At some point you will try your hand at materials that require special handling. 

I found this piece of leather which is really too thick for 1/6 proportions. It had been hanging in my closet for awhile before I found a rather interesting sewing technique that was used to repair jeans by hand. It consists of sewing two lines of stitches together and then pulling it closed. The result is a perfectly closed seam. This allows you to finish the back of the boot when stitching and turning the boot right side out is not an option.

1. Make stitches down both sides of the boot pattern.

2. Apply rubber cement to inside edges of the boot then fold under close to the stitches..This is an important step because the seams need to lay flat and once the seam is stitched up, there is no way to do this.

3. Hold both edges close together then with a double threaded needle (knotted at the end), run the needle under and through each pair of stitches. You are literally stitching up the stitches, pulling them gently together as you make your way up.

4. The result is very clean, very professional.

5. Here's a back view of the finished boot. This is an interesting technique to use for "difficult" materials like medium weight leathers, suede and vinyl, plastics, velvet and chunky fabric that are hard to impossible to stitch and turn right side out.

I used the same technique to remake the Chanel boots I saw during the S/S 2018 catwalk shoe. (The original ones I made were disastrous.)  No matter how thin the material is, you cannot turn vinyl right side out when working on such a small scale. This is a material where you will want to close the back seam using this technique.

If you are tempted to work with clear vinyl, I recommend using "invisible" thread. This is really a thin plastic thread. It's not the easiest thing to work with but it does remain out of sight. I used the pattern without the center seam. I layered on the front toe wedge and slip stitched it in place. The toe is wrapped in mirror tape and I even cut little vamps that define the back of the foot. (We'll talk more about those in the next post.) For the stiletto heel, I used 1/2" (1cm) 18 gauge silver wire. 

If you want the boot to fit close to the leg, you will have to think about a closure. The FR footwear usually puts a zipper in the back seam, but they will sometimes create a side seam as well. I decided against this because it means you would have to create yet an extra seam in an already tiny item. Besides, there are other more creative solutions.

Lacing the boots up the back is an easy, not to mention sexy way to finish off a boot. Take a look at my hot pink suede boots I made for Samantha.

I decided against putting in metal eyelets because I felt they would distract from the beauty of the suede and of the design. I folded under the edges of both sides of the back seam then sliced small slashes along both sides. Then, I cut narrow strips of suede and threaded through an upholstery needle which I used to thread through the holes.

Before I show you what else you can do with that back seam, let's take a look at what you can do with the front seam. Here I've used a shorter length and a closure treatment that laces up the front.

 1. As I mentioned before, you can make a standard pattern then cut it down to the length of boot you want. Here I took the knee length (with center front seam) and cut it down to the midcalf. Stitch the back seam then, using rubber cement, glue the seam flat.
2. Apply rubber cement to the front edges of the boot. Turn the edges and hammer flat.
3. Mark where you want the eyelets on the wrong side of the boot then prepare the eyelets. I used the needle side of a compass. Place an eyelet on the needle.
4. Punch a hole in the leather, forcing the eyelet through the leather. You might have to use your fingers to help get it completely through.
5. Then take a pair of pliers and with a quick gesture, press the eyelet flat.
6. The finished eyelet should look like this.

7. Before you can even think of putting on a sole, the upper must be completed. I used kitchen string as shoelaces.

8. Prior to putting on the sole, tape the two edges together on the back side so that the toe remains closed as you glue it to the insole and sole.

Remember that fringed jacket we made earlier this summer.

After creating a row of fringe by slashing a strip of leather into strips, the fringe is basted to one side with the fringe facing inwards towards the center. 

If the leather is supple enough you can fold the piece over to encase the fringe and sew. Then turn right side up. If the leather is too thick, then you can use the technique of sewing the stitches closed we showed earlier in this post.

Okay, so I wanted to end with something that looks remotely like a winter boot! This was originally a leather spat that didn't get much action. I transformed them into real boots (hence, the wedge over the top of the foot) and added a fur trim. 

For the moment I haven't committed to the trim, so it is only taped to the inside of the boot. At any point, I can remove it and still have a really nice pair of brown leather boots.

Well folks, this has been a really fun summer project but all good things eventually come to an end. Up next: our last shoe tutorial of this series.... Shoe Biz 7: Pumped!

We will bring this series to a close on a quiet, conservative note. I left this rather plain shoe for last because for me, it is the most difficult shoe to make well. Personally, I don't plan to make many of this style of shoe. But I felt the series would not be complete without the classic pump. I will follow up with a few final thoughts before returning to our regularly scheduled fashion posts.... See you  back here very soon.

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All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2019. Please do not reproduce without prior permission and please always credit us.

Fancy Feet: Couture Footwear

With the Paris Couture Week having just wrapped up, I thought this would be the perfect time to make some fancy footwear for the girls. Underneath those fancy gowns, made-to-order power suits and luxurious fur coats exists some very fancy footwear in the world of Haute Couture. Not your ordinary off-the rack-stilettos, women fortunate enough to afford such expensive garb, will indulge in this most special footwear every bit as precious as Haute Couture itself.

Since my posts on Spats and Stocking Shoes, friends and followers have encouraged me to take that last step and  make "real" doll shoes. What has stopped me has been the difficulty in making suitable and symmetrical high heeled soles. I have even been all over the internet trying to find a source that sells those delicious FR soles to no avail. Recently, however, I received a tip suggesting I might try building shoes on top of existing soles....those cut from bottom of Barbie shoes! What a great idea! Full disclosure!  My shoes are not bad, but I still have a ways to go before they're as good as those created by the author of Fashion Doll Shoes! Nonetheless, I have approached this project in two stages: customization of the original structure and my own designed shoe with Barbie soles.

Get Inspired!

Forget about making ordinary pumps. If you're going to make your own doll shoes, they should be something special. But you'll need ideas and for that, Pinterest is a great source!

Getting to First Base

I have lots of different dolls with a wide variety of feet sizes. So when I went shopping for inexpensive generic shoes, I chose high heeled sandals that accommodate a variety of different foot shapes as shown in the above photos. (You can find these easily on eBay.) By clipping the ankle strap in the back of this shoe, most of my dolls can slip their feet inside. I was also able to cut away the ankle strap to create mules. Since this is a Barbie product, quite naturally, most Barbies fit this shoe perfectly. But I discovered, many of Integrity Toy's Fashion Royalty dolls also fit this shoe, although their feet are a bit long. This is okay because you can create uppers that disguise this. Still, whether you use this shoe, or something else, be sure to select a shoe with straps, so that you can cleanly clip them away.

Make It Your Own
I love what looks like chiffon covered shoes that tie around the ankles. For this shoe, I cut off the ankle straps to create mules. I took a long strip of sheer fabric about 1/2" (1cm) and folded it in half. With this, strip I simply threaded it through the shoe straps, wrapped it around the doll's ankles twice and tied it into a soft bow.

 You could use ribbon for a more simple look. It's simple, cheap and super easy.

Here, I selected a slightly different shoe. The ribbon is looped around the center strap, then again, wound around the leg, gladiator style.

I also love the shoe covered in flowers.

The concept behind this shoe is to make lots of tiny bows that give the illusion of tiny flowers.

I used the same organza used for my Christmas Centerpiece dress. Cut lots of small strips. Then one by one, tie them onto the straps of the shoe. As you add more ties, push them together to the side of the shoe. You can cut away the excess depending on the look your going for. Then press them down

Ok, it's time to make a real pair of footwear! To be perfectly honest, if you have made a pair of Spats (one of my most popular pins on Pinterest) you're practically there! The construction of shoe or boot uppers is the same, except that we will need to add more allowance under the top of the foot and we will need to make innersoles.

Sole Food

There are lots of doll shoe tutorials on the internet. What makes this one slightly different is that we are starting with a predesigned sole as opposed to designing something totally from scratch. So instead of conforming to the doll's foot, the insole must be traced off the shoe sole. Note: If you use only the dimension of the doll's foot without taking the shoe into consideration, there will be a gap between the finished shoe upper and the top of the sole. I've already made this mistake!)
Trace on a small piece of thin cardboard or thick paper. Fold this form where the foot bends at the toe bed and then at the top of the heel.

Normally, you would need to make a second set of insoles, however....I had problems with the plastic material used in the doll shoe soles which seems to resist rubber cement. Instead, I covered the soles with paper tape which resolved the problem.

The pattern for the footwear--a boot in this case--starts exactly in the same manner as that for the spats. If you are using a material that stretches--like knits, jersey or even leather--you can make your upper in one piece by stretching over the leg and forming a single seam down the back. Drape the fabric over the leg and pin. Mark the back seam and around the foot. Transfer to paper. Adjust so that both sides are symmetrical, then add seam allowance.



But if you are using a non-stretch material and you want a narrow boot that conforms to the curve of the leg, your boot will need seams in both the front and back.

My leopard patterned boots were cut from a vinyl square found at a local crafts store. It has a seam down the front and back. However since there is no zipper in the back, be sure to leave a tiny bit of extra space around the ankles so the doll's foot can get in and out. The pattern uses the latter pattern technique featured just above.

1. Originally I machine stitched the boot upper. However I couldn't turn it inside out. So, I stitched the boot just around the ankles for stability. I turn the boots right side out.
2. Then glued the rest of the back seam together using rubber cement.
3. Put a small piece of tape on the bottom of the foot to hold the inseam in place. Put the boot upper on the doll. Cut notches in the seams around the foot.
Apply rubber cement on the insole and then around the inside seam of the boot around the foot. Keep the two glued pieces separate until each one has dried and it slightly tacky.
4. Then fold the notched edge over the insole. Remove this from the doll. Apply rubber cement on the top of the sole. Apply rubber cement on the bottom of the upper.
5. When both are nearly dry, very carefully match the upper with the sole and press in place firmly. I painted the soles and heels brown.

This is the a very basic boot which can be embellished to create limitless looks.

This is an evening boot made from taffeta. Actually you can make it using a wide piece of taffeta ribbon!

The boot is made exactly as outlined above. I wrapped the top of the boot with a piece of crushed taffeta and stitched it in place. Working in fabric is quite easy! Sewing is a breeze and the boot easily turns right side out.

Here is a pair of boots I once owned, myself. They were inspired by a design created by Japanese designer, Issey Miyake. Essentially, this is a short, ankle boot with a strip of leather that wraps around the leg. I made these from ordinary leather.

1. This boot begins like the ones above.
2. Again, I used a tiny bit of tape to keep the insole in place while I drape the style.
3. With a single piece of material, I wrap it around the foot and ankle. Mark the back seam and around the foot to make the pattern. Transfer to paper and add seam allowance.

 4. The top of my shoe soles are covered with paper tape. I cut a 9" (22cm) long by 3/8 (22cm) wide strip. Clip around the toes of the foot (along the bottom) then cut out notches. Fold the sides over and glue in place. You can hammer the edges to flatten.

5. Find the midpoint of each piece and tape in place about half way down.
6. Machine stitch in place. Place this on the doll. Use a piece of tape or string to hold the upper on the doll while working.
7. Apply rubber cement to the insole and around the notched seam of the upper. Allow to dry. Surfaces will feel tacky to touch.
8, Then fold the notched bottom over and press firmly. Apply rubber cement to the this as well as to the sole. Again, allow to dry. Surfaces will feel tacky to touch. Carefully press the upper to the sole.

The top strip wraps around the doll's leg twice. Note how I have not stitched this boot up in the back. The ties will keep it in place and most of my dolls will be able to wear this boot!

This boot also uses the pattern where there is only a single seam down the back. Here again, it requires no sewing. I used a glove weight suede. Instead of stitching the boot down the back seam, I punched holes in it and threaded a narrow (1/16 inch 2mm) strip of the same suede. Note: I used a darning needle to thread the strip through the holes. I folded and glued in place both sides of the boot along the back seam. (Note: Cut the boot slightly smaller so that a small flash of flesh shows through for this sexy look.)

 

 The fun thing about this, is that you can get as fancy as you want with your footwear.

I had an idea for a delicate bejeweled boot using sparkling organdy.

 

I constructed the boot with the single back seam even though the fabric doesn't stretch. I ended up with a boot that is a little wide in the ankles. Still, I like the leg that peeks through the sheer. I painted the soles silver and added lots of glitter to the heel and the top of the toe. Under a cloud of twilight sparkled tulle.....Stunning!

 

 

 

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2017. Please do not reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.

 

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