It's in the bag!!!

For generations, "fashion" was only about "the dress." Then in the early 1950's, Christian Dior made history by being the first haute couturier to lend his very stylish name to stockings, shoes and an assortment of other chic accessories. Today, when you walk through the high fashion districts of Paris, one has the impression clothes don't count as much as.....handbags.

Admittedly, most of my focus with this blog has been placed on garments. Ok, so we did a few handbags using polymer clay (very successful posts, I might add). Up until the designer luggage post, I had really just skimmed through the handbag part, preferring to make terribly predictable, very boring simple purses. That post on Designer Luggage forced me to look more carefully at things like details and scale. It also forced me to reconcile the fact that designer bags are more than glitzy initials and quilted surfaces!

So for this post, I bit the bullet and did a little research on bags I'd like my divas to have. Inasmuch as I have two wonderful resources in Paris that sell leather scraps for a few Euros a piece, my girls get to have real luxury bags. Nothing beats the sheen or the touch! However, if you are not so lucky, vinyl, faux leather, pleather and the like are good substitutes. Should you opt for leather, choose the thinnest skin you can find for the sake of scale and manipulation. But first, let's go looking for pictures of the latest bags your dolls might want. Perhaps you may even have handbags of your own you'd like to make in miniature.

The idea is to take inspiration from these photos to arrive at an interesting interpretation. Most are based on very basic shapes. Start off by making paper models of them.

Have your doll nearby to check for scale. Figure out what you will or will not include in the detail in terms of details. Even if you are ambitious, realize that the scale will force you to simplify!

Take the paper model apart and use it for your pattern. I use a pastel pencil to trace the pattern directly onto the wrong side of the leather. Use sharp scissors. All but the first handbag (which I hand stitched) are no-sew.

I did this pretty much by trial and error until I was satisfied with the shape.

I drew this first on graph paper, then made it in paper. The straps and bag are all in one. The overall length is 4 inches (10 cm) by 2-1/4 inches wide (6.5cm) wide and 1/2' (13mm) deep. That inside strip measures 5-3/8" (13.5cm) by 1/2" (13mm).

Assembly is easy. The side gusset clipped along the seam allowanced and is stitched to the flat sides of the handbag. Turn the bag to the right side. I used an iron set on the lowest setting to press out the seams a bit.

The top of the straps are butted together and glued. I added a tassel (sold in craft and notions stores) to a 1/8 inch (2mm) of leather. The leather strip slips through an eye ring and is glued onto itself. That strap is glued to the back of the bag.

An even easier bag is my fringed "boho" hippie bag.

This is a simple rectangle of chamois cloth. The dotted lines are fold lines. On the pattern, you notice that there are two 1/4" folds. This is a soft pleat which I have glued together to add a touch of volume at the base of the bag. Though you are not obliged to do this.

I pricked a hold with a big safety pin then made rings to hold the shoulder strap. When you are making fringe, be sure to measure and mark directly on the leather before cutting so that it will be even! I added tassels (I made myself) to the side by taking a small strip of chamois, cutting it into miniscule fringe then knotting it at the end. The ornament is a bead cap, flattened and glued in place.

These next two are "classic"  bucket shaped bags with a bottom cut in the shape of a circle or square. A rectangular piece of leather wrapping around the base.

I turned both horizontal edges under and glued in place. A "cool" iron helps a bit with the glue. OR...take a hammer and pound! The seam allowance around the circular bottom is clipped first. I tried to fold and slightly press it as well to help in the process. Put glue on the seam allowance then press the side of the bag in place. Some of the clipped edges will overlap.

When you have finished, simply overlap and glue in place.

I use metal eyelets. First punch the hole. Put the eyelet in place, then crimp. My bag has 8 holes.

For the bag tie I cut a strip of leather 1/8" (2mm) then fed it through the eyelets. When you finish, make sure both ends come out of the front in separate holes. Pull the drawstring and tie. For my shoulder strap, I used a chain interlaced with another 1/8" sliver of leather, since my aim was to emulate a Chanel style bag. I thread each ends of the leather strips through opposite holes and glue it onto itself.

The next one, inspired by the blue Reed Krakoff handbag on my inspiration board, is a variation of this and begins the same way.

The bottom is a square which I have added 1/8" seam allowance then turned under and glued. The side is turned under on one horizontal side (which is the top of the bag). Manipulating this is much easier. You only need to clip the seam allowance of the bag's side at each corner of the bottom. Again, the rectangle simply wraps around the bottom base.

 

When you are wrapping the bag around the square, it is better that the back seam fall in the middle of the square as opposed to the corner. When you have finished, simply make a soft pleat on either side. My bag is held closed with a tiny square of Velcro discretely place inside. The strap is another 1/8" sliver of leather glued to the back. The loop in the front that holds it is simply a tiny rectangle folded inward. Thread the strap through it first, then glue it onto the bag.

Before I could conclude this project, I insisted on making something I have been searching for but could never find....a handbag with outside pockets.

Again, the pattern is super simple. It is a shorter, wider version of the tote bag we've made before with a side gusset.

The dotted lines are fold lines. This time, however, I wanted a bit more volume, hence the 1/4" section at the top of the bag. After cutting out my pieces,  I first pressed in the folds with a cool iron, then I folded the rest over the seam allowance of the side gussets.

At first I thought I needed to make cargo pockets. But the thickness of the leather is such that a simple rectangle folded into three parts and glued down provides the perfect illusion.

I cut out pieces of cardboard corresponding to the bottom of the bag as well as the top and glued those in place. Again, this adds structure to your bag. For the finishing touches, my bag closes with a button. I punched a hole on the outside of the bag. On the front I used a "brad" (Attaches Parisiennes). I attached a tiny self made fringe to the button and used pearl stickers for the pocket buttons.

One last thing....the shoulder strap. I cut slivers from my leather strap and made a braid. At each end I made a knot. It I attached to the bag at the sides with small metal rings. 

 

Well, believe it or not....fashion week around the planet is in full swing. The girls have been on the ground for more than a week and will be back in a snap with their roundup of New York Spring 2015 trends!!!

 

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Dolly's got a brand new bag...

The dolls have been in my closet...AGAIN!!! Though I've always seen to it that they should have the proper purse for any outfit....they've somehow developed an appetite for classic designer bags...like the Chanel quilted bag, the Hermes Kelly bag.... As a result they ganged up and insisted I find a way to come up with the goods.

This is an exercise involving crafts. Simple envelope bags are pretty easy...fold fabric, glue, add straps. But I accepted the challenge to be inspired by fashion's quintessential "it-bags." As in the case of its knock-off counterparts, what is important in recreating miniature interpretations of these coveted items, is to figure out what which details are important to "providing the illusion." It is not important for the handbag to open and close (unless your doll has special powers that mine do not possess). On the contrary, you must pay special attention to the bag's most popular silhouette, its straps, closures and any other detail like tassels or bag jewelry.

 The easiest way to create these bags is to begin with a base. And for this base I use either polymer clay or air-dried paper clay. The first comes in a plethora of colors and hardens in the oven within 30 minutes, while the paper clay dries in a few hours and has the advantage of being super light weight.

In the case of the Chanel and the Dior inspired bags, I modeled the clay into simple, rectangular loafs. Using a razor or knife, I drew in the "quilted" patterns. I used a large safety pin to bore a hole to later pass through a wire which hooks onto the chain strap. And, as in the case of Chanel bags, I threaded the chain (used for the strap) with 1/8" (3mm) ribbon, gluing the edges down at each end. For the "Dior" bag, I cut up the plastic jewelry delivered with one of my dolls to make the handle. To that I attached two tiny objects to a wire loop. (The identifying details of this type of bag is that something dangles from the handle)

 

The clay base also serves as the perfect base for making leather handbags. I cut out separate panels for the side and glue directly to the sides of my form. Next, I trace the front and back silhouette of the bag directly onto the skin. Cut out and glue onto the form, making sure there are no gaps where it meets the side panels. In the case of the lizard skin which is rigid, I used a razor to lightly score the skin on the outside so that it will break where it needs to bend. (Just be careful you don't cut through the skin.) When you have finished covering the form with the leather, trim away the excess. If you have matching paint, you can paint the cut edges.

For the tassels, I used a few loops of embroidery thread, tied and cut to scale. You can wrap the base of the tassel with lightweight wire to hold in place.



This doll's carrying a REAL Dior. (Surprise. It's a Dior keychain!!)

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All text & photos property of © Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.