Check Mate !!!

Checkers aren't just for old men anymore. Last September, Marc Jacobs sent out a variety of simple silhouettes, many with checkered stories for the Spring/Summer collection he designed for Louis Vuitton. Those same garments are now all over Paris in the store windows and they look just as exciting and fresh as they did on the catwalk. What I like about this look is that it heralds back to the 1960's, a time when art and fashion were fused together thanks to movements in op-art, Andy Warhol, a Beatles' infused Carnaby street, and Camelot a la John and Jackie Kennedy.

I knew when I saw the LV collection on the catwalk last September, it would adapt well to the 12" fashion doll. The shapes are stark, simple and timeless. Moreover, all three looks featured on this page can be realized with easy to make patterns featured in past postings. (Look in the "pages" section under "patterns" for anything you missed.)

The dress is a simple shift pattern that borrows the sheath dress minus the darts. There is a slight curve in the shape, all the same, which gives a hint of shape an otherwise straight silhouette. I painted on the checkerboard which required a graph and a bit of planning so that the squares all line up.

Ditto for the coat. I used the same standard jacket pattern we've used before. (In effect, it is the same coat used for the safari jacket or the trench coat, but without all of the pockets and assorted details. Just remember to stitch the shoulders first and while flat, attached the sleeves before sewing the rest of the coat.

For the bare midriff top of the pants ensemble (a trend for this summer), I started with the basic shell top (the bodice sloper with seam allowance). I took the pattern I had previously created and put this back on the doll to determine where the style line under the bust should fall. Once you have drawn in the line, you will need to line up the back bodice at the side seam and mark the cutting line. You do this to ensure the side seams will be equal.

I also decided to create a square neckline. Take the back sloper and line it up at the shoulder of the front. Now draw the square neckline according to your choosing. This will ensure the pattern matches well at the shoulder line.

Now create your pattern and fill in the seam allowance. I used the standard pants pattern, but lowering the waist by 1/4 inch.

If you can find checkerboard fabric, all the better. But it you can't, you will need to create your on. Here, I have created a checkerboard print directly on my fabric. Draw a graph onto the fabric and match up the pattern pieces at the side. Admittedly, this is time intensive. In another post, we will explore a different method.

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All photos and text property of © Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.

Fit to be Tied!!!

One thing our fathers, brothers, boyfriends or husbands all have in common...at some point they receive a tie they really don't like. OR...they still have an out-of-date tie that's long past its expiration date in terms of fashion. Don't throw those ties out. Make your Barbie a dress!

At DollObservers.com, I joined the "Sew Much Fun" group. A few weeks ago, fellow doll collector, Pabboo Redfeather proposed a "Neck Tie Challenge" whereby each participant choses two different printed ties to create a garment. Granted, the smaller dolls have an advantage in that the fabric included in two average sized ties is more than enough. I had such a great time with this project, I created an eveningwear ensemble (gown+cocoon coat) and then found a third tie to create a tea-length dress. In fact, if I don't stop myself, my father's wardrobe of ties could be in danger of subsequent raids. The prints are perfectly scaled for the doll and though I was, at first, tempted to use a pattern and cut into the ties (I've made a suit from a single skirt waistband!), I chose instead, to create a dress in one single piece.

For the first garment (featured in the top picture) I found a beautiful Lanvin ecru/beige/claret silk tie which I found second hand at an antique fair. For the second one, I went to the cheapest store in Paris (Tati) and purchased a Bordeaux polyester tie in a paisley jacquard. Second hand stores, The Salvation Army are great places to find ties.

I was inspired by the Haute Couturier of the 1950's (Balmain, Dior). I took apart the cheaper tie to create the gown. However, the designer tie was so lovely, I hated to take it apart. So I carefully folded it (padding and all), then shaped it into a "quilted" cocoon coat.

Though this type of design is free style and organic (like sculpture), I decided to photograph the various steps involved with the hopes of inspiring you to unleash your inner Dior.


Begin by creating a fitted foundation garment. I made a strapless foundation by cutting off the top of the sheath dress from the bottom of the armhole to bottom of the armhole. The length was just above the knee, but you can make it longer or shorter depending on how much you want to control the design of the drapes.

Flatten out the tie. Iron. Then begin by "sculpting" the fabric to the foundation. Pin each fold in place. Where you want to fabric to hug the body, pin those areas down; where you want more of a 3-D effect, let the fabric rise.

Keep turning the doll around as you work. Adjust your folds until you are satisfied with the results.

Work so that there are no raw edges visible. The most important thing is to have fun. When you are finished pinning, remove from the doll and use tiny stitches to hold your drapery to the fabric.

Slide longer stitches underneath, picking up just a tiny bit of the outside fabric. Stitch deep down in the valley of the folds to hold them in shape.

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Princess Diaries

When the weather is nice in Paris, the city positively sparkles. The best way to celebrate hazy days of summer is by wearing this year's must have wardrobe item: the dress. Trends now favor looser styles that float and shimmy along with warm summer breezes. With that in mind, we'd like to introduce you to a regal look: the princess-line dress.

A favorite look of the 1960's, this is a graceful silhouette that traces the curves of the body with seams instead of darts. We can also introduce as much or as little fullness down from the hips to create a flirty, bouncy or even slinky effect, depending on the design, the time of day or the fabric.

We begin with the basic bodice. Trace onto graph paper. Make a line from the tip of the dart to the mid-point of the shoulder line (a). In reality, we could make this line to the mid-armhole or the midpoint along the side seam. But today I have chosen to make my princess line extend from the shoulder. Cut along this line just shy of the bust point. Tape the CF along a vertical line on the graph paper. Cut half the waist dart away, then swing the left side of the front bodice to close. This will create an opening at the shoulder where you slashed the pattern (b). Draw arrows indicating the straight of the grain (very important) on both the bodice part which is closest to the CF line (now the "Front Bodice") and draw another arrow that runs along the vertical lines of the graph paper on the piece closest to the side (now the Side Front). Cut away what's left of the waist dart. The front bodice is now in two parts.

Tape down CB of the back bodice along a vertical line of the graph paper. Make a line from the tip of the back waist dart to the mid-point of the shoulder. Be sure you draw a straight of the grain arrow next to the CB. as well as on the other side of the dart near the side seam line. Cut along the slash line. Cut away your dart completely, close and tape shut. You now have two pieces to your back bodice: the Back Bodice and the Side Back Bodice. You can add seam allowance to these pieces if you intend to use this draft as a separate top or as a bodice for a dress that has a skirt detail.

Today, however, we want to create a princess line dress. For that we will need to prepare the basic skirt bodice. Trace off onto graph paper. From the tip of the waist dart, draw a vertical line down to the hem. Cut away your dart. Label each part and be sure to indicate the straight of the grain arrows. Repeat for the back pattern.


I want a flare skirt so, at the points where the dart tip was on each point, I swing the side of the skirt in identical amounts. In the case of the purple dress, this is 1/2 inch at each point. (The blue dress is only 1/4 inch). The front and the back skirt panels only swing out on one side. The side front and the side back swing out on both sides.

We will now take the draft of the bodice and, one by one, tape each piece to the individual skirt draft. Tape bodice front to skirt front, bodice side front to skirt side front, etc. Line up the CF of the front skirt and bodice along the vertical of your graph paper. Same thing for the CB. For the other pieces, try to center the pieces while respecting the straight grain of both the bodice and the skirt. In some cases they might not line up well at the waist. You will draw a smooth curve that blends the top to the bottom. With this draft, you are working with quite a few pieces so you should indicate the side seams on your patterns so as not to be confused later.

You can alter the look of this pattern by introducing as much fullness or as much length as you'd like. Try a strapless version by cutting the top of the pattern away from armhole to armhole.

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It's a Wrap!!!

The weather has finally taken a turn for the better and everyone is out on the town wearing easy, breezy dresses with lots of pizzazz. One of our favorite summertime looks is the classic wrap...worn as a cool top over summer skirts and shorts...or even better....in the form of a printed wrap dress á la Diane Von Furstenberg (who, by the way, has four boutiques in Paris).

The DVF wrap dress was legendary in the 1970's. Her label was revived 30 years later when it was discovered that models were snapping them up from vintage shops in New York and wearing them everywhere.



This is really simple to make. I'll start with the wrap top. Most of my blouses and tops don't have sleeves because my dolls wear them under jackets and they create unnecessary bulk. However, feel free to add sleeves to the top or the dress.



For this pattern, I have shifted the dart from the waist to the armhole. You do this by drawing a line from the apex (the tip) of the dart to midpoint on the armhole. Cut along this line, then fold the dart completely shut. There will now be an opening radiating from the armhole.

Trace your new pattern onto a sheet of paper, then flip the original draft over, attaching it along the center front line and draw in the other side. You now have a complete front bodice in one piece. Draw your style line. Mine extends from the shoulder the the opposite waist. Cut away. Draw in your seam allowance. You will need to cut two of these from fabric. The back is a regular back bodice except you will place the center back on the fold, thus cutting only one (complete) back bodice. Sew along the shoulders and sides. You can either use snaps on both tips of the front bodice and at the sides of each waist or you can attach a length of ribbon to wrap around the waist of the doll and tie in the front.



For the dress, the procedure is the same. I've drawn in a slightly different style line that extends from the shoulder to half way between the center front and the opposite side at the waist. Complete as you did for the top.



Now make the skirt. You can make any style you want. For this one, I chose the flared skirt (where I've simply folded out the darts in the front and back skirt patterns. For the front skirt, you will need to trace then add both sides together to create a full front pattern. Note the exact point you extended the bodice and extend your skirt pattern to match that point. Cut away the excess. Add your seam allowance all the way around. You will need to cut two of these from fabric. The back only requires you to place the CB on the fold, thus cutting one full back pattern.



Attach the top and skirt together along the waist seam, matching them up at the side seams. Roll your edges under. You can close the dress either with snaps at both tips of the bodice on the waist. Or, attach a bit of ribbon at each side of the waist. Leave a small opening on one side so that you can feed the ribbon through the waist to wrap it over the back and tie into a bow in the front.

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Shopping for Chic: Avenue Montaigne

Shopping in Paris is far more than a mere act of self indulgence. It's the best way to discover the glamorous side of the city as well as France's renowned tradition of quality and inimitable sense of luxury. Though there are several distinctively different "fashion neighborhoods" around the city, none compare with Avenue Montaigne's aura of elegance. Lined from end to end with a who's-who list of legendary brand names, this street represents the best of what fashion has to offer on the planet.

For more than a century, Avenue Montaigne has been THE place for high fashion thanks to the presence of renowned labels like Christian Dior (#30), Valentino (#17-19), Chanel (#51) Nina Ricci (#39), Harry Winston Jewelers (#29) as well as the plush Plaza Athenee Hotel (#21), a favorite amongst many barons, billionaires, movie stars and heads of state.

Chez Dior

First named "Allee des Veuves" (Widow's Lane)--because ladies in mourning found solace in its leafy shadows--in 1723, the street was renamed Montaigne. By the mid-19th century, it quickly became one of the most popular places in Paris thanks to the lively Saturday night "Mabille Balls," illuminated fountains and some 30,000 gas jet lames. This along with Chinese billiards, ring toss games and energetic bands playing polkas, waltzes and quadrilles, crowds flocked the to area for more than a quarter century. However, the neighborhood experienced a veritable metamorphosis at the turn of the last century, which saw the area gradually evolve into the chic quarter it is today.


Chez Dior

 Though the area became known as a core of Haute Couture by mid-century, thanks to Christian Dior, Balmain, Balenciaga and the like, many luxury brands from around the globe began to flock to the avenue in mass throughout the 1980's and 90's including: French Luxury group LVMH's Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Dolce & Gabana; Germany's Escada and Jil Sander, Italy's, Giorgio Armani (who replaced Ungaro at #2 and is also at #18), Max Mara (#31), Gucci (#60), Pucci (#36), Prada (#10), America's Ralph Lauren (#52) and more recently Malasian born shoe designer, Jimmy Choo (#36).

Like the typical "grand dame" of fashion that it has become, avenue Montaigne is pretty complete. Parfums Caron (#34), a gem of a perfume shop with pearl gray drapes, stylist mirrors and a grand crystal chandelier, boasts a dozen monumental Baccarat urns filled with re-edited precious scents dating as far back as 1919 and sold nowhere else in the world. Take a break and have lunch at L'Avenue (#41), or at the chic canteen at the Relais Plaza (#21), Take in a concert at the Theatre des Champs Elysees (#15), or indulge in dinner at the Maison Blanche (#15) a sleek and distinctly noteworthy restaurant atop the Salle Drouot-Montaigne, itself a highly esteemed auction house.

Since there's nothing like a little window shopping to get the creative juices flowing, today's the "girls" take you on a walk with them down the most stylish street in France.

 

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Dior windows.....with doll!!!!

Who's that doll!!???!!