Earlier this year, Andre Courreges one of the icons of French high style left us. Courreges, one of the tenors of Sixties Couture was best known in the tenor of what was known as "Space Age" fashion.
I begin with this little pant suit. It features a short, loose, hip length jackets (both in single breasted and double breasted versions) over a simple pair of stovepipe pants.
HERE for the jacket tutorial.) That jacket tutorial is a single breasted jacket. What that means is that the buttons will line up on the center front line and an extra 1/4" (8mm) is added to the right of those buttons+seam allowance. For the double breasted jacket, you extend the jacket front over to the other side of the bodice. The buttons will fall equally on either side of the Center Front line. Then an additional 1/4" (8mm) is added to the right side of the second set of buttons.
I decided I wanted a facing (instead of a lining) for this jacket. (If you want to create a facing, click HERE for instructions).
Sew the jacket, first at the shoulder seams, then add the sleeves, sewing around the cap. However, before you sew the seams under the sleeves and on the side of the bodice, drape the jacket over the shoulders and measure for sleeve length. (The sleeves are short because it is worn with gloves!)
Pin the collar to the jacket along the neckline.
Baste in place, first. (This keeps it from slipping while you sew the rest together.)
Now pin, then baste the facing in place along the front edges and neckline of the jacket.
Stitch in place. Clip around the neckline (for ease).
Now turn right side up and press.
Next is the double breasted version of the same jacket. Since this jacket is always worn closed, I decided to do a edge to edge full lining. I chose a wool crepe for this suit.
2. Stitch the jacket together at the shoulders as usual. Hem and topstitch the sleeves while the garment is still flat. Now sew the jacket along the underside of the sleeves and the side seams of the jacket.
3. Construct the collar then baste it onto the neckline. The collar should be facing down.
4. Separately, sew together the jacket lining.
8. Pull it through the jacket sleeve.
9. Turn the lining hem over. You can baste so that it doesn't shift.
10. Insert a pencil in the jacket sleeve. Adjust the jacket and its lining I use a toothpick to help me get everything down and in place.
11. Stitch the two together.
Hand stitch the lining with the jacket along the opening at the back. Then, topstitch along the outer edges of the jacket.
Add buttons. I used "brads" (found in scrapbooking aisle of your favorite crafts store). I puncture the jacket front with a large safety pin, then slip the brad in and fold the wings out. The jacket is closed with snaps.
A-line Skirt with Yoke.
You can simply draft an A-line skirt or a 4 gore skirt and be done with it. (Click HERE) But I decided to do a more complex skirt for authenticity. This one has a yoke in the front and back. (Full disclosure--I added an additional 1/2" (1cm) to the length of the following pattern.)
2. Fold the dart at the waistline. The skirt opens up at the hem to form a flare.
3. Draw the shape of yoke you desire.
4. Clip along those lines and add seam allowance to both the yoke and the skirt.
5. Repeat for the back skirt sloper. Draw a vertical line from the back dart to the hem.
6. Cut along that line and fold the dart closed. The skirt opens out at the hem.
7. Draw the yoke. Use the placement of the front yoke at the side as a guide so they will meet up when you make the skirt.
8. Add seam allowance.
10. Attach the front yoke to the skirt front and the back yokes to the back skirts right side to right side. (Wrong side is facing you.) The top of the yoke should be facing down.
11. Attach the backs to the front, being careful to match them at the side seam yoke placement. Press well with seams pointing upward.
12. Topstitch above the seam. Stitch the back from the hem to 1/8" below the yoke.
13. I added a waistband (waist width+ seam allowance x 1/2" high). To do this without creating bulk at the waist, I used fray check on all sides of the strip. I basted the waistband to the underside of the waistline. Then I folded it over to cover the front and topstitched it in place.
14. Turn up the hem. Baste then topstitch.
HERE for the tutorial. Important...look for fabrics with texture!
HERE. And Veronica's "helmet" hat is felt and was made using the tutorial HERE.
Tent dresses were the "look" of the 1960's. The tutorial for the basic tent dress is found by clicking HERE. I added more flare, then simply folded and pressed the accordion pleats in by hand.
All text and doll photos by Fashion Doll Stylist. 2016.
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