Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Dolls Eye View: Paris Spring Summer ‘19 Trends


The girls were happy to get back to Paris, where, frankly, there’s a little something for everyone!

Biker Babes

Biker shorts are back with a bang! (Were they ever out of style?) What's new this time around is pairing them with a tailored jacket.
To better conform to the original jacket, I could have used a flat textured wool. But having just found some very chunky (and hard to sew) "Chanel" type fabric, Anna insisted I make her 1/6 scale version out of my latest find. The jacket itself really isn't anything special. It's really all about the look--big Chanel jacket with the stretchy bike shorts.

Basic Instinct
The little black dress. The little white dress.... Getting dolly dressed for summer is as easy as making her a basic sheath. What makes these special are the tiny little details--a hint of lace peeking out from under a hem, peek-a-boo shoulders or a bias trim to an asymmetrical skirt.

Cool Shoulders
A trend that has been quite popular over the last few seasons, rocks on with all types of garments from easy, breezy caftans to an amazing strapless pantsuit frothing with an overabundance of ruffles! But the girls' eyes went directly to the caftans. What other garment do you get jewelry built into the dress!
We could not resist the challenge of making this caftan with the dropped shoulders. Unfortunately I had some time constraints and took many shortcuts to produce this version for Sophiya (aka Modernist Eugenia), the newest model to arrive in the house. I liked the idea of jewelry incorporated into the dress (or is it the other way around). And since I didn't have time to make (and embroider) a separate collar, I decided to bead the collar of the dress then attach pieces of old earrings I found in my own jewelry box. What is lovely about this look is that, depending on the time of day and the occasion, this dress can be cut in cotton for late day or silk for evening wear. In any case, this look deserves to be further explored in a future post!

Elements of the Earth
This is clearly a surface treatments project. A photo print of an earthly landmark---Sahara Dessert, the Grand Canyon, perhaps--is cut up by the princess seams of a top or skirt and teamed with a neutral accessory. Our eyes also zeroed in on the "waterfall" top and dress that appears to have been constructed with layers of cellophane fringe.


Me and the girls were rather intrigued by what appears to be cellophane dresses and tops in this collection. Kimora’s outfit is, technically, a paper dress. I located a roll of lightweight acetate (transparent film florists use to wrap bouquets of flowers). The base shift dress along with the rows of fringe are all cellophane held together with tape! (You cannot hand sew cellophane because it tears easily, as I discovered.) I’m going to work on this a little more to find a way to make this dress more “permanent.” In the meantime, Kimora is having a really good time!

Organic
With all of its twists and turns, this story is once again, all about surface treatments...this time around a nod to strange and exotic foliage. A throwback to the 1980's Issey Miyake "Pleats Please" collection, there is lots of creative draping, permanent pleating and at times....old fashioned bows!
A while back, we did a dolly textile post, "Twist and Shout," a surface treatment imitating permanent pleating ushered in the early 1990's by designer, Issey Miyake. So for me, (even though the namesake designer is no longer designing for his company) it is really nice to see this very organic look back into the spotlight. This is a cotton plaid that I wet and twisted. When dried, I draped it around Nichelle's body in similar fashion to the original garment. Then I pinched it in certain areas, stitched those "bunches" down and ironed those areas as flat as possible. I left out the straps which, for me, added nothing to the design. The result came out even better than I anticipated.

In Contrast
Black and white...this is a favorite reoccurring theme for spring and summer collections. What we loved best about this time around is how bold the graphic look is achieved through color blocking or Chinese calligraphy style prints.
My girls first spotted this dress, by Alexandre Vauthier during the Haute Couture collections. I never had time to make it, so they were delighted to see the designer make a very similar version for his ready to wear line. Again, we were taken in by the big sweep of black and white in this garment. This version features little shorts. But the girls preferred the couture version where the base was a dress. The two-tiered train of the dress goes from center front to center back.

Her "A" Game
Glamour as simple as a 1950's inspired prom dress! The classic A-line dress is part of a gorgeous lineup of evening wear cut in lace, satin or chiffon. The easiest way to get the look...is with our basic dress patterns made in two parts where the fitted bodice is joined with an A-line skirt.

Arsenic & New Lace
Speaking of lace.... a new take on an old fabric....we love the look of heavy "crochet" laces that drip over the body. Also..what could be sexier than dresses where the body peaks through sumptuously artisanal lace. And finally...a simple cotton lace dress made from three different laces gets all glammed up for the hottest of summer days.
I have a thing for these 3-D laces...This one employs the art of ribbon embroidery. Admittedly I did not have much time as I would have liked. But with a little bit of 3mm ribbon, a few silk flowers and a few lace medallions, I was able to create a similar effect over a tulle sheath dress. Very simple. Very sexy.

Glamour Girl
And finally....what would a summer ball be without a statement dress! It can be as big (like Russian born Valentin Yudashkin or the French house Talbot Runhof) or as subtle as the dresses put out by Rochas and Maticevski. What they all have in common...approachable glamour with a hint of  high drama!

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9 comments:

  1. Oh, there is a lot going on! So many intresting creations! I like it! :)
    I love the idea of mixing dress with jewellery (dropped shoulder dress). It looks great. I like the fabric you used.
    Your version of organic dress is wonderful.
    I love the classic black & white of course. Great shape.
    And you did a great job with 3D lace. I have to try it some day. :)

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    1. Hi Kamelia. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. I’m back in Paris, “recharging my batteries.” And yes, there are many very pretty looks coming out of Paris for next spring. The 3D Lace is so pretty on the doll and reminds me of those very expensive laces I saw last summer while looking for wedding lace in Paris. The black & white dress first appeared during couture week and I had wanted to make it. So I was happy it reappeared in this season.
      Again, thank you for your very kind words. Big hugs, April.

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  2. Hello, I would like to ask a question, I hope that doll lovers will not be offended! I came across this blog ( amazing !! ) and wondered of there was a large 'Barbie' doll Community out there ?I know that Blythe has her followers ( I was gifted one ). Just to add that very many years ago I began dressing my sisters Barbie type doll as she wasn't into it and I ended up making many many outfits, day, swimwear, evening, suits, even shoes and purses ! I even unravelled fine black knit and used the curles to fashion afro wigs, it WAS the early 70's! I was even photographed on the front page of our national newspaper holding them! I ended up in Fashion school two years later and since have had a successful 40 years in Parisien Couture. Every time there was a Barbie to dress for a charity event the designers gave it to me to dress as only I had the patience. Presently I am retired and make 1:12 scale miniatures, still working small! My best wishes Stephanie

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    1. Hi, Stephanie!

      There are some blogs related to Barbie, Fashion Royalty and other 1/6 scale dolls and action figures. Some focus on collecting the dolls (through dealers or as inexpensively as possible), others focus on clothing/dressing/photographing their dolls, storylines or making dioramas; repainting, rerooting and/or rebodying dolls, and conventions. Search for the the doll type (i.e., Barbie or Fashion Royalty) and the word blog.

      Unfortunately, many blogs have been discontinued, some moving to IG, others falling victim to real life and lack of time to blog. Some collectors became disenchanted with the 1/6 scale format and switched to 16" dolls when the quality of the smaller dolls and/or accessories began declining and prices increasing.

      Fashion Doll Stylist is the only blog in the genre that I read regularly. Like you, I began sewing and designing for Barbie when young. I love April's take on fashion and her instructions for complex garments and easy (relatively!) methods to update doll wardrobes for holidays or create runway looks with readily available materials.


      Taja

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    2. Hi Stephanie. First, welcome to my blog. Given your very impressive background in fashion, I sincerely hope you enjoy yourself here. Sorry to have taken so long to respond to your message but I am back in Paris, recharging my batteries with lots of inspiration coming from every direction.

      Thank you Taja for responding to Stephanie. Taja really summed things up quite well. There is a pretty significant doll community worldwide who collect everything from Barbies, Fashion Royalty and the 16” titans, Tonner & Superdoll to American Girl, Bratz, Gotz and everything in between. There are lots of different types of collectors from those who simply amass the latest fully dressed “it” doll to those of us who like making our own fashions. Doll collecting is the second most popular hobby after stamp collecting.

      If you are interested in selling what you make, think of setting up an online store on Etsy and post your wares on Instagram where you can also simply show off your dolls like myself and many others. In any case, welcome to our community. Have fun. Come back as often as you like for new ideas or just for your own enjoyment.

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  3. Wooow, absolutely amazing as always :_) Especially I loved this one: https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6OQVLOOEoqI/W9T-jgybZLI/AAAAAAAAYE0/VNcCRoSxxpkrf12q26iuAdkmbdsjhM5BQCEwYBhgL/s1600/PFW-SS19-Andrew-Gn.jpg HUGS dear April!

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    1. Hi Aya. I like that (caftan) Dress as well! I’m going to work on developing a really simple pattern which I will post in the near future.

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  4. Replies
    1. Thank you so much Dlubaniny. Big hugs to you, too!

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