Saturday, October 10, 2020

Doll's Eye View: New York Spring/Summer 2021 Trends


The show must go on! In spite of dire predictions that fashion week might be cancelled for the remainder of this year.... the industry still put on a show....sort of. Long before there were theatrical catwalk shows, there was something called... "Market Week." Design houses and manufacturers would invite buyers into the showroom for a preview of their new collections and take orders. The press was sent press kits with a few photos. With few exceptions, this pretty much sums up what happened in New York, London, Milan and Paris over the past month. This was a totally "different" experience for my girls, nonetheless it did not deter them in their quest for a few new looks to compliment their restricted pandemic lifestyles. In New York, there were those designers who continued "business as usual" with opulent designs and yes, they did look so out of touch. So very...2019! Given the last seven months of lock down, the girls, quite naturally gravitated to clothes that were easy to wear, unassuming and simply..made them feel good. 

Some of you will be bored by our selections. But fashion is not synonymous with flamboyance. Catwalk shows were not initially designed to serve as entertainment for the masses. They were staged for the eyes of the press and retail buyers. Most of all..fashion is a reflection of current lifestyles. It's about a mode of dress reflective of the times in which we live. Most people have other concerns on their minds...Covid19 and all the restrictions it has placed on our lives, loss of employment, social distancing, the US elections.... We are in one of those pivotable moments where trends tend to move from one extreme to another.  We need clothes, however. For the moment.. is about simple, wearable clothes. Again...think of this as a cleansing of the palette at a time when the trends are shifting and making a passage into a new era.

Back to Basics

With my previous post, I did prepare you for this!!! It's about getting back to the simple pieces that can be dressed up or down. A chic little nothing that takes you from dawn to dusk and lets you express your mood or personality with accessories.

Denise is adding this to her wardrobe of little black dresses. It looks very much like one of those Patrick Kelly dresses we made awhile ago...a simple jersey dress with shirring on both sides. But I wanted to add a small new touch, so after shirring both sides of the dress, I added what appears to be drawstrings, each ending with a tassel. (There's are tassels on the ends of the neck straps in the back as well.)

This is Nicki (otherwise known as Keeki Adaeze), the newest model in the house. She chose the one shouldered top and a pair of trousers. It's nothing extraordinary, but with basic pieces, she can style herself with accessories any way she wants! 

But don't worry. All of fashion hasn't been blacked out. There is a lot of color planned for next summer. Again, the look is super easy, bordering on beachwear! These are all easy to create for your diva. Easy to wear. We like the ankle length tent dress in tangy stripes, a wide pair of trousers slipped over a bathing suit. And of course a turquoise caftan dress edged with fringe for effortless chic. It's the kind of look that I could see myself wearing around the house and out in public!

Sonia instantly took a liking to the caftan dress. It really looked more like a poncho to my eyes, so I thought it would be nice over a pair of matching stretch pants. The top is really just a rectangle with the neckline cut out in the middle. I lined the edges with a fringed trim. Note: I didn't have access to this time of trim, so I ended up making the fringe myself using embroidery filament yarn. 


Color Relief
Again, next summer promises to be drenched in bright, cheerful colors. Styles revert back to summer staples...tunics over pants, ruffled sarongs over tank tops, even a tie dyed dress strapless dress with a cascade of ruffles. Keep it simple but consider interesting details that add movement like ruffles or fringe.



Prints Charming
Printed fabrics are another way to spruce up otherwise basic silhouettes. When you go fabric shopping, look for colorful florals, jungle prints or even abstracts. Use them in a total look or  match and clash in a spirit of fun. But take a close look...at the end of the day, we are still talking about easy to wear silhouettes...wrap tops with matching pants, dress length tunics over trousers, easy shirts over baggy shorts. And ladies....don't forget those masks. They can also be designed as a fashion accessory coordinated to match dolly's outfit. 

Adrianna shows off a cool summer look... a cool, asymmetrical tunic worn over a pair of pencil thin pants. Originally, I had styled this with wider trousers, but the outfit seemed to overwhelm the doll. Wide always works well with narrow! As for the print... this is why fashion week is so important to me...I was inspired to emulate the print with the help of some textile markers! (Note: I'll make this the subject of a future post!) The top itself is another rectangle. But instead of folding it over with the neckline cut out, it consists of two rectangles stitched together along the shoulder line on one side and tacked in place on the opposite side, thus allowing for the shoulder to peak through. I also made vertical stitches from the underarm to the hem on either side to contain the width of the garment. The important thing here... it was super simple which left me time to paint on the motifs of the print.


Summer Breeze
An all white cotton theme....these are summer basics...a flared, ankle-length dress with an English embroidered lace ruffle around bare shoulders, a long jacket belted over full pants, a shirt belted over a cotton dress with a flounce  bouncing away from the knees. What better way to get your doll ready for summer!


Garden Party
For when the only party you can throw safely is outside.... More fresh prints and easy going styles when the sun comes out! The flower gardens were the inspiration for many of the fresh prints we'll see for next summer. Roses, orchids, violets.... what could be prettier! Silhouettes remain simple to wear, easy to make.. Think tent dresses, shirt tops with gathered skirts, halter neck tops with evening length circle skirts, all covered in a botanical garden's finest! 

Again...I took my textile markers and a brush and got to work on Olympia's dress. The print doesn't have to be exact, it only has to capture the spirit. The original dress also has some beaded embroidery. But given the times we're in right now, my girls opted for something simpler. So I painted on the motifs and in the middle of each flower, tacked on a rose petal (cut from a sheer polyester with edges melted) folded in two.

I Feel Pretty
These easy dresses that look as though they stepped out from another point in time, dominate the catwalk for next spring. Again, it isn't the time to make big, splashy entrances, or wild, edgy statements. It's about calming down, chilling out, with something that is comfortable, easy to wear, something to feel good in! This means silhouettes that slink over the forms beneath, or fit and flare that flatter the body. When you are making something this simple...invest in beautiful fabric!

Springtime Promenade
There are two things going on here. In early spring, we want something to quickly slip into as we run to the store, answer a quick "non-zoom" meeting with a colleague, or feel the need to get away from it all by taking a stroll through the park. But six weeks later, under the warmth of the summer sun, there is still the desire to slip on something comfortable, but usually the weather inspires us to put on a pretty face. 
In a talk I had with a few other fashion professionals, the general consensus was that having been indoors and clad in pajamas, yoga pants and sweatsuits for so long, fashionistas are likely to emerge in post-Covid times--spoiled by the confort of their pandemic clothes, yet perhaps, yearning for a more luxurious version of them. In the original photo, I saw a jersey knit kimono spilling over the shoulders of a loosely fitted dress. (This might also be a grey cotton fleece used for sweatsuits.) Ingrid already had a white, long sleeve cashmere dress. But instead of making a kimono, I decided to treat this as an enormous shawl--almost like a blanket. She slips on the dress and wraps herself in a matching blanket and heads to...wherever... in style, warmth and comfort!

On the flip side...warmer weather encourages a certain flirtatious way of dressing... The original ensemble consists of a lingerie style top worn with a pair of flared shorts and a soft jacket tossed over the shoulders. The fabric looks to be a soft cotton or even perhaps a rayon. For Christie's outfit I wanted to keep it in the girly tones of pink. But I decided to go with a more "boudoir" version so I opted for silk satin instead. I wanted the jacket to "melt" over Christie's shoulders, so instead of a classic jacket with set in sleeves, I made a kimono jacket instead and belted it over the flared shorts.. 

Sweet Little Nothings
Hail the the charm of the little black dress with such precious detailing... netting re-embroidered with black lace, ribbon and fringe or simply pressed with white embroidered motifs to one side. 
I really wanted to make one of the Sukeina net dresses but unfortunately didn't have access to any of the materials or trims. So Giselle had to settle for the Naeem Khan dress. It's a simple little A-line jersey dress with white floral embroidered decals tacked onto one side. Again, easy to make and stunning on the doll. (I took the motifs from an old camisole.)

Cool Drink of Water
It doesn't get classier than this! The key to these elegant dresses is "simplicity." Even formal wear is paired down to its simplest element... the column dress. Designers have gone back to basic, understated dresses for formal wear with just enough embellishment to keep things interesting. Colors here remain neutral for evenings. It's about dressing up without outlandishly going overboard. 

Dorian shows off a super glam look--a two-piece column dress in heavy silk satin with it's own pearl necklace. What makes this dress a real class act is the fabric. Again, when the look is this simple and this easy to make....splurge on the fabric. The top is a triangle with its apex twisted d stitched into the collar. The bottom is a classic straight skirt. 


Veronique shows how easy it is to glam up a basic black dress. Though the original dress features a draped shoulder detail resembling a shrug, I decided to go the other direction by transforming that detail into a full train. The dress is a strapless sheath. (Easy to make). Over her shoulders... a rectangle of fabric that is stitched in a loop on one end. In the front, I twisted the fabric (and tacked down the folds so they wouldn't move). The top wraps around both shoulders. In the back, the free edge is fed through the loop, thus resulting in a train. Note: The photo in the upper right hand shows you what it looks like in the back.



Okay folks, this was the only the first stop on our exploration of Spring Summer 2021 styles. Mask up and follow the girls as they head for Europe. Don't worry. Unlike the humans coming from the US, dolls are all Covid free and, we are told, will be welcomed at the border!

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Monday, September 28, 2020

When Puppets Rock the Catwalk...

While the girls are busy finishing up after a brief stint at New York fashion week, we received news from our overseas crew about a eye popping event in the Italian fashion capital of Milan. Instead of an in-person catwalk show, Moschino, a house known for its edgy and tongue-in-cheek fashions, presented their Spring Summer 2021 collection on puppets instead of humans! Some 40 looks were "walked" by a cabine of 30-inch (75cm) puppets within a setting resembling the hush interiors of an haute couture salon. When Jeremy Scott, the American born, artistic director of the Italian house realized an in-person show would be a challenge during an ever persistent pandemic, he decided to take a more whimsical route by staging a puppet show instead. “The best thing I could do for everyone who is stressed about the election, the pandemic, social unrest, and the future was to give the gift of fantasy and take us away from all of it for a few minutes; let us enjoy this little fashion world of ours,” Scott explained in a recent interview. Inspired by Dior's iconic "Theatre de la Mode," the services of Jim Henson's "Creature Shop" (the artists responsible for the renowned Muppets) were retained. They created "models' fashioned after the designer's favorite girls and an assortment of other figurines representing prominent editors seated in the front row. As for the clothes themselves, each one is an exact replica of a full scale garment designed for humans. Every fabric, every accessory, every detail of the life size garments had to be scaled down to fit the bodies of the marionettes. 

Photo: Moschino.com

To give you an idea of scale. Photo: Moschino.com


In an interview (click on the link to view) with CNN Style, Jeremy Scott provides a glimpse behind the scenes and describes what it was like to bring his puppet show to life. 

The full setting was created right down to the editors seated in the front row. Photo: Moschino.com

Though me and the girls have not yet begun our fashion reports for the Spring/Summer 2021 season, we all agreed to share this show with our friends immediately. Inasmuch as these miniature clothes are already shown on half-scale dolls, I have decided to let you savor them as presented in lieu of replicating any of them myself. So sit back, relax, pour yourself a glass of champagne or a cup of tea and enjoy a puppet show like you've never seen before. Afterwards, you can take your time and peruse each outfit as I have posted all of the still photos below. 


Video and photos: Moschino






There's even a puppet of the designer who takes his bow after the show! Photo: Moschino

All photos and video courtesy of Moschino



We'll be back shortly with a Doll's Eye View of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021.


Wednesday, September 23, 2020

The Notorious LBD


After all of the fancy clothes I've made over the years, you're probably looking at this my opening photo wondering....what happened? Why is she going backwards? There is a rather "special" fashion month taking place right now. So far the girls are not impressed. What we can say right now is that times have changed. Seriously impacted by the pandemic, fashion professionals are noticing a seismic shift in wardrobe needs and desires. It appears that as a society, we are shifting away from the fancy gowns, the suits and other complicated gear in favor of simplicity and comfort. Consequently the challenge now is figuring out where to go from here.  So we thought it was the perfect time to pause and go back to basics with.....the eternal, the iconic, the timeless.....little black dress (LBD). 
Mattel's Barbie Basics: Little Black Dress Collection 001

Though I've made an abundance of black dresses for my ladies, at this point in time, I wanted to return to the simplest, most basic dress. Inspired by the original Barbie Model Muse Little Black Dress dolls, it remains the core value of my collection and a marker of where many of our collections began. Consider this as a way to "cleanse the palette" while we wait on the new "main dish." Personally, I like to put my girls in these dresses while they await their next modeling assignment or in between seasons while I am figuring out how to redress them. 

So what exactly is a "little black dress" and why is it so special? Simply put, the little black dress serves as a sort of canvas for everything that goes on top from coats, jackets to belts, jewelry and shawls. By itself, it is nothing all that special. But on the other hand, we can create our own personal fashion by layering on a mix and match of things we already have on hand. And while you can make any of these basic dresses in the color or print of your choice, I've stuck with black because--as I've discovered in my own social life-- it is a chic color that goes anywhere, everywhere, all the time.

Of course, for this project, I was inspired by my Barbie's original dresses. Chic, simple and very well made, these are some of my favorites. I have examined them for hours on end trying to figure out exactly why I love them so. One thing I've noticed was how simply they are constructed. Where possible, the shoulder seam has been eliminated which means less bulk and a better fit at an crucial spot. Also, it condenses everything into a single pattern piece which makes each dress, faster to put together.

For this project you will need a set of jersey knit slopers and some 2-way stretch jersey fabric. For the tutorial on how to make the knit sloper for you doll, you can look HERE or see the video HERE. The concept is pretty simple. We take the basic slopers and align them along the shoulder. You can change the neckline to anything you want. Or even add a sleeve if you choose.



1. Take the front sloper and trace a mirror image on the other side of the CF line to create full front sloper. At this point, you can also elongate the sloper to create the desired dress length. Make a second back sloper.

2. Line up the 2 back slopers at the shoulder line of the front. If you want to change the neckline, this is a good time to do so and by doing it on the flat, this will assure the front will match up with the back.


3. For my pattern, I cut deep armholes around the shoulders into a "halter neck" effect. Add seam allowance. Cut out your pattern from a single layer of jersey. 

4. Turn down the edges along the armholes and neckline and stitch or fabric glue.


This is the dress this pattern create. But if I stick to the original sloper and then add a sleeve, this is the result:


The set in sleeve has a more classic, structured look. But we can also make a dress with a dolman sleeve where the shoulder line is softer and we remain with a single pattern piece.


1. Again, we begin with the basic slopers aligned along the shoulder line. Take the sleeve sloper and align it so that the center line follows the line and direction of the shoulder line.
2. Here, I've used a ruler to show how the sleeve follows the line of the bodice shoulder line.
3. Underneath the armhole, make a curve line (shown in red here) to join the sleeve to both the front and back bodice slopers.



4. Cut the dress out in fabric. Turn under the neckline as well as the hems of both sleeves.
5. Fold over the dress and sew.
6. This pattern yields this dress.

We can also do other things with the sloper such as incorporate shirring on one side. In fact, this is one of my favorite Barbie LBD dresses!
1. This starts with the full front sloper. 
2. Mark one side of the waist with a dot. And on the other side, mark with dots where you want to incorporate fabric that will be shirred back in place. 
3. Cut this pattern piece out and slash.
4. Trace the external edges to create your pattern. But make marks as to where the gathers will be. That corresponds to the area on one side where you have slashed.


5. Add seam allowance. Be sure to transfer the gathering marks on the front sloper so you know exactly the area to be shirred. 
6. Finish the neckline and armhole edges. Fold the dress over at the shoulder and pin the sides in place. The one side will fit perfectly, the other side will need to be gathered in between the marks you made so that it fits perfectly with the back of the dress.
All by itself, this dress makes for a lovely little black dress for cocktail wear! Does the little black dress always have to be cut close to the body? I decided I'd loosen things up a bit for the girls by making a tent dress. You really don't need a jersey for this, but a soft jersey will make the dress swing over the body just right!


Same concept, different silhouette. I've added sleeves. You can leave them out! If this is all too complicated for you, there are simpler options. 



This is as easy as making a T-shirt and it has no back closure. It works only if you are working with a quality jersey and if the neckline is wide enough for the doll's body to wiggle through the neckline!
I made this using the basic full front sloper, except that I raised the shoulder line so that it is horizontal (not slanted). The front and the back slopers are equal. The neckline is cut deep enough in the front and the back. After cutting it out, all you need to do is to turn down the edges and slide it right on the doll!


And here's the easiest of easy that doesn't even need a pattern. The sarong!



This is a rectangle of jersey fabric measuring roughly 8 1/2" wide by 5 1/2" long. The rectangle is wrapped from the back, under the arms and across the body, ending up at the back of the neck. I added a snap on each of the upper corners. All you need from there is a belt!

There is one drawback to 1-piece patterns. Their odd shapes take up a lot of space on the fabric which could result in a bit of waste. So I highly recommend cutting out several at a time. Play around with the layout of the pattern pieces on the fabric. What I've done here was to play around with the layout, then chalk the patterns down directly on the fabric. Yes, the lines look fuzzy, but you should look at the straight line created by the chalk at the edge of the paper pattern and cut along that line. This is not a necessary step, but I did this because the jersey often moves around if the paper pattern is simply pinned to it.


So now that we have our little black dresses....let the show begin! Let that inner stylist take over.  Have fun by mixing and matching other pieces in your dolls' wardrobes along with  all the boots, shoes, hats and jewelry you've been collecting! To get you started, here are a few ideas!














Note: For this post, I did not include the strapless dress or 1-shouldered dress. For the tutorial on how to create those from the jersey knit sloper as well as others that make for really nice little black dresses, be sure to check out:




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