Such a Good Sport (Jacket)!

Since I began creating clothes for my all of my dolls, it has become abundantly clear, Barbie, Ken and all of their doll friends need clothes for many different occasions. Getting the latest looks for Ken, means more than making Shirts and jeans. From time to time, he also needs a sport jacket.

I will begin with a couple disclaimers. 1) I am not a tailor, nor do I pretend to be. But I do know construction and consequently, I attack patterns for Ken much in the same way I do for Barbie. And 2), even though I have racked my brains to find simple solutions to very thorny issues, in no way should you assume tailoring is easy. While I try to post every three days, the menswear is taking a bit longer. What I have learned through these exercises is that for Barbie, almost anything flies, whereas for her male friends, the devil is in the details! Collars, buttons and especially proportions!!!

That said, let's have some fun. For today's exercise, I show you two ways to make your handsome 12-inch hunk, a sport jacket. One uses the shirt pattern to get you started, the other (yellow) is draped on the doll.

I begin by tracing half the shirt pattern onto tracing paper, then taping it directly onto the doll.

 Draw your "style" lines. That is, draw the curve of the front jacket hem. Decide whether you want a 1-2 or 3 button jacket and draw your V neck from the neck-shoulder point to where the collar will end at the center front. Be sure you extend your pattern at least 1/4 inch away from the Center Front (the buttons are aligned on the CF). Mark all seams. Remove this from the doll.

 I even mark the inside of the pattern to make sure I can see all of my indications. Now transfer to graph paper. Add seam allowance and make another toile, this time in cotton.

Put this on the doll. Chances are, it will not fit the way you want. I cut along the CB, thus allowing the jacket to open up. Tape a bit of fabric in this space and now create a new CB line which will begin above the point you slashed but will be extended over the new volume. Cut out of cotton fabric again and check the fit, making any needed adjustments. Once you are happy with the fit of your jacket, make a new paper pattern.

Cut out your garment in fabric.

What differentiates a jacket from a shirt in menswear is the very pressed, structure of the jacket front, normally achieved in tailoring with the help of interfacings and facings. But for our 12 inch diva, we must avoid bulk. I use an iron-on interfacing. Use the front jacket pattern you just created, but without the seam allowance. Press in place. Now complete the jacket (beginning with stitching the shoulders together, then adding the sleeves while still flat. Hem the sleeves. Then fold the jacket over, inside out and stitch along the under sleeve and side seam in one operation. Now the more challenging part.....the collar.
For the collar, I cut 1 inch piece of my fabric on the bias. Fold in half (lengthwise) over the neckline edge and pin in place. Now cut away excess and carefully roll the collar under. Tack in place. Once this is done, stitch the collar (by hand) on the inside. If you have any problems with corners popping out, use a bit of fabric glue to hold in place.

Now turn over the outer edges of your jacket and glue in place. Inasmuch as menswear garments are usually made of dry wools, cottons, linens (and in my case raw silk), fabric glue will provide a nice clean finish without tiny stitches. However, if you use silk, sheer or any fine fabrics, glue will show and so will have to carefully hand stitch. The buttons, by the way, are tiny beads.

Since this is a hot weather look, (Salvatore Ferragamo Summer '13), I made my guy a tank top to wear underneath. I cut two swatches from a pair of my father's worn out briefs, then draped the pattern directly on the doll. I drew in the neck and shoulder lines and marked the side seams. That was transferred to the graph paper for the pattern, making sure the pattern was symmetrical.  You will notice my seams are pretty small. That is because this particular cotton knit is thin and unstable and risks being caught up in my sewing machine. For that reason I've chosen to hand sew it. On the other hand, I did not try to turn the edges or hem. You can use a special product to keep the edges from fraying. My knit stretches over his head pretty easily. For that reason, I also did not  make the usually back seam.

For my second sport jacket, I decided to try my hand at draping it using the same technique we used to create Barbie's basic slopers. I taped a bit of cotton to Ken's shoulders. (At first, I planned on creating shoulder pads but found them to be too bulky. Using the same technique I used for Barbie, I start in the front, creating the style lines. Then attach the cotton to the back to finish the drape. For the sleeve, I used my shirt sleeve and made any necessary adjustments.

Again, I slash where I want ease, and tape fabric to the existing toile.  When I am happy with the results, I remove from the doll, take apart and create my paper pattern. Make a second toile just to be sure you are happy with the fit and note any adjustments you have made onto the pattern.

We are making a real notched collar. The bottom part of the collar is taken from the top edge of the front pattern which is folded outward. For the upper collar, I need a rectangle which will be attached to the neckline and overlap a bit. My upper collar measures 3-1/2 inches wide (plus seam allowance) by 5/8 inch long. I turn down the edges of my collars and stitch the upper collar along the neckline seam (inside--fold over the seam, right side out.) You can use tiny stitches to sew the upper and lower together. I use a bit of fabric glue on the inside of the collar to keep everything nice and flat.

The point where the collar turns away from the body of the jacket, make a tiny slash, then turn the outer edge of the rest of the jacket inwards and glue (or sew) in place.

I folded tiny slivers of fabric into pocket flaps. And I used tiny white sequins to imitate buttons.

This guy is wearing the class shirt we showed you how to make in the prior posting. So that he can wear it with the jacket, we made a short-sleeved version of our original pattern.

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist. 

Text and images property of © Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.

New Boyz on the Block

In the seasons to come, Ken is quickly learning that fashion is the sum of its parts. Most of the trends Richard has been reporting to me indicates a strong penchant for graphic color blocking. It can be done with wild splashes of Crayola tones, or bold and urban using the simplicity of black and white.

Today, we show you a sampling of looks which illustrate how the simple shirt pattern can be modified to create a variety of looks.

Once you become accustomed to the proportions of the male doll (broader shoulders, flatter  anatomy and more massive than Barbie), and once you have a good shirt pattern that fits your doll well, making patterns for Ken is more of a game of jigsaw puzzles. We do not have the complication of darts and special seams due to the female doll's curves. On the contrary, it is more about adding, subtracting volume, cutting up flat shapes then piecing them back together.

While you could take a big black marker and draw in the shapes, the garments on this page will better resemble their human counterparts if you take the time to cut the shapes and piece them back together.

For the Alexander Wang garment, I started with the basic shirt pattern then drew slash marks where I wanted the black bars placed. Cut the pattern along those lines then add the necessary seam allowance to the top and bottom of each piece. Be careful to label each piece (including straight of grain) so as not to be confused later on. For the placket, I used 1/4-inch bias tape I made myself. You need bias so that it curves around the neck smoothly.

Make it yourself: Take scrap fabric. Determine the straight of the grain and cut 1-inch strips on the diagonal. Fold in half and press. Open. Press each side in towards the center. Fold and press the two sides together and fold it over the raw edges of the shirt. Hand stitch in place. I used tiny sequins to imitate pearl buttons down the CF. The shirt closes with Velcro.

For the trousers, I traced off the original pants pattern. Put your traced pattern on the doll and added extra volume to the legs at the sides. Then drew a new pattern. I added a 1/2-inch band to the end of the pants.

If you do not already have pants for the doll, you can drape a pair using the technique featured in "Panting for More" (2/18/13).

The Gaultier shirt and pants uses the same principle, though is less complicated in that there is only one change of fabric.

For the sweater, is a technique called "Cut and Sew" knits. This means you use knit fabric which is cut using a pattern then stitched in place. The pattern is borrowed from the shirt. The CF and the CB lines are placed on the fold to create a single piece for each side. My knits are super stretchy, so I did not need to make a back seam.

To emulate the look in the photo, I used an old sweat sock and cut it into strips. Then, alternating the textures, I stitched them into a single band (seams side out). Cut this band into quarters. Turn each strip to alternate the texture, then sew everything together. Now cut the front and back pattern out of this. The sleeves are cut from the cuff of the sock.

 

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

 

 

Shirt Tales

A silk shirt for her and a Yohji inspired cotton shirt for him.

Whether it's for the Ken doll or just for Barbie, nothing is more quintessentially chic than the all time fashion staple....the shirt. For the Ken doll, this item opens the possibilities to create countless casual and urbanwear gear. For Barbie, it's a wonderful summertime garment that always looks fresh and never goes out of style.

That said, keep in mind that unless you make a coat with very deep sleeves, the doll won't be able to slip anything else on over her shirt. This is primarily why I feature largely sleeveless dresses. When I have examined the clothes Mattel provides for Ken, even his wedding suit is a 3-in-1 trompe l'oeil costume like that worn by Chippendale strippers. (Richard was so kind as to point this out to me.)

Today's posting focuses on the basic shirt for both sexes of dolls. Rather than mark Ken for slopers, I took the easier route by duplicating the shirt delivered with Ken by tracing off the shirt pattern (see Trace of Style) to make a basic toile.

Add pieces of fabric with tape to introduce new proportions to your pattern.

The original shirt was smaller and shorter than the proportions I desired . After duplicating it, I put it on the doll, being sure to mark the CF and CB lines. For adding volume or length, slash your toile where you want more fullness or length, then add more fabric, taping it in place. Once you are happy with your new proportions, mark where the new seams, hemline, armhole or neckline should be. Remove from the doll to create a new pattern. Cut this pattern out in fabric. Pin together and try on the doll. If it still needs adjusting, add or subtract fabric. It is very important this pattern is correct because all other styles will depend on how well this draft fits. I made a couple toiles before I was happy. Create half a pattern so that both sides will be symmetric.

Mark the CF, CB, all seams and style details on your toile.

Create half a pattern for symmetry. Check that side seams are equal in length.

I had some problems with the collar. So I waited until I had sewn the toile together, then measured the neck hole to ensure a proper fit. My front placket is the edge folded twice over to the front, then stitched in place. If you don't want a placket, fold it to the underside and stitch. Unless you are doing something fancy with the cuff, sew it onto to edge of the sleeve before you sew the underarm of the sleeve.

A well fitting shirt with just the right amount of volume! 

I'm featuring two types of sleeves for the girl doll. The first is a simple dress shirt, like the kind you would wear with a suit.

An easy to make simple "dress shirt."

Trace off the front bodice sloper. Ignore the dart. Measure 1/4 inch on the right of the CF line. From the neckline measure 3 1/2 inch and drop the new line. Straighten the seam under the arm so that drops perpendicular to the hem. From the bottom line, make a mark roughly 1/4 inch up. Now draw your curve at the bottom. For the back sloper, measure the length of the underarm length of the front pattern to get the proper length for the back. Also note where you shortened it on the side for the curve.

In this blouse, I am not adding a collar. Instead, I've made a facing by drawing a line 3/8 inch away from the neckline at the back. For the front draw this line so that it looks like that in the illustration. Trace the front facing. Flip. Then add this piece to the front pattern along that new center line. I've used the regular sleeve. The final pattern is featured below.

This makes for a nice blouse. However, if we want to create the women's version of the men's classic shirt, we'll need the next draft.

The oversize shirt pattern features a deep, dropped shoulder sleeve, a cuff and a back yoke if you so desire.

The chic of a crisp linen shirt over a halter top and jeans.

Begin with the front sloper. Again, ignore the dart. I decided to add quite a bit of length, so I dropped the center line by 5 inches from the neckline.

At the neck shoulder tip, draw a straight horizontal line equal in length from the shoulder tip to the underarm line (see close up) minus 1/4 inch. Measure 1/4 inch down from the underarm tip and mark. Now draw a vertical line straight down to the hem. At the front, add 1/2 inch to the right of the CF line. Make a curve at the underarm. Decide how deep you want the side curve for the tails. Mine is marked to start at 3/4 inch up from the hem. Draw your curve.

Take your sleeve sloper and measure out from the cap to the wrist minus 1/4 inch. Draw a horizontal line from the new shoulder tip of the oversized shirt pattern and another from the underarm tip. Join with a vertical line. Draw a diagonal line from the underarm point to the mid-point of the vertical line (at sleeve hem). This will result in a squared off triangle. Trace this off and add to the top to get the sleeve.

For the back, flip your front shirt pattern. Line up the back sloper to this pattern. You will maintain the neckline of the back sloper but trace off the rest of the front pattern. If you want a yoke, simply place a horizontal line at the point you want it. Here, I've place my slash line 1/4 inch down from the neck. You will add seam allowance and stitch these two pieces back together. You can also decide to leave the back in a single piece.


 
For cuffs, create a rectangle: measure the length of the sleeve at the hem, add 1 inch. Fold in half horizontally and press. Sew onto the hem of the sleeves before preceding.

If you have opted for the yoke, sew this to the back bodice, press. Baste together and stitch the front and back patterns along the shoulder line. Next, stitch the sleeves to the bodice while everything is still flat. Fold over to the wrong side of the garment and stitch the sleeves along the under arm and down the side seam of the shirt. Measure the neckline and create your collar. Create a rectangle the same width of your neckline plus 1/2 inch (or more). Add seam allowance. The complete pattern should resemble the one pictured here.

You can use all different types of fabrics. Bulkier ones or leathers will yield you a shirt-jacket. By lengthening this pattern  and adding a self belt, you have a "shirtwaist dress."

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

All images and text property of © Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.

Ken's Eye View: Spring/Summer 2014 French Menswear

Richard in Rick Owens inspired shirt from the Summer '13 collection.

One day my father walked into my room and asked, "Why aren't there any male dolls here." I explained that creating menswear is difficult enough, but making miniature versions of men's clothes that are credible is nearly impossible. At least that is what I thought until I saw the most recent menswear collections. "Hmm, I could do that," I thought. Though it was not my initial mission to create clothes for Ken, after looking at the recent trends and consulting with a very good friend, I decided it was time to open the door and let the Ken in.

Ladies and gentlemen, I would introduce you to Richard, the creative director in charge of steering me in the right direction for Ken's trends here. As in the case of me and the women's clothes, everything Richard has chosen for this trend report are things he would wear himself. And I must say, After creating these very unorthodox shirts, I must say, Ken never looked so good.

Here's Lee in a Fall '14 Rick Owens inspired shirt.

Richard and I discussed the recent collections and all of the wild prints and silhouettes. We both agree...the catwalk is simply to pass the designer's message along. Most guys will buy one very special piece (a super shirt or a special jacket, for example) then wear it with an existing pair of jeans or trousers.

Next spring look for lots of prints, bright colors and radical experimentation with silhouettes that push the limits. And if some of those skirts and drawstring pants look strange to you, take a close look at the baggy street wear the kids are currently wearing. The catwalk looks are not that much different than those super loose, crotch-to-the-knees garments.

Today, we present Richard's favorite picks from the French menswear collections for Spring 2014. In a later posting, we'll show you how to get started creating clothes for Ken beginning with a shirt. Hint: start by using his original clothes as a base to create basic patterns. Consult my posting, "Trace of Style" for directions as how to do this.

Richard favors the boldness of graphics and color blocking.

Going to the extremes: wide and loose or short and narrow.

Color blocking feels just right.

 Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

Variations of the classic white shirt are always a way to make a statement.

Barbie's Eye View: Paris Couture Fall/Winter 2013-14

As someone who has covered the Haute Couture collections over the years, I must say, this was one of the more quiet seasons. Silhouettes were quite restrained. I suppose this is due to a lingering recession plaguing Europe.

The Haute Couture week I experienced in the heady days of the 1980's is quite different now. These days, the number of legendary labels on the catwalk can be counted on one hand. In an effort to keep the tradition of a couture week alive, younger, lesser-known names have been invited to show during what was once a very exclusive club of top high fashion houses. But to my veteran eyes, the line between ready-to-wear and haute couture is so blurred, I sometimes wonder if there continues to be a clientele for these made to order products.

What distinguishes the difference couture and off the rack is the liberty of design that is not confined by limitations imposed by commercial production methods. This means unusual and creative garment construction enhanced by high quality (super expensive) fabrics and, of course, the made to order service which ensures your dress conforms to your exact measurements and the knowledge that no one else in your social circle will be sold the same dress.

Though this "Art" loses money in spite of the costly price tag (a suit can run $5,000-$10,000, an evening dress can reach the stratosphere of $50,000+), it is the locomotive that sells the brand's other goods from ready-to-wear and accessories to perfume.

Names like Chanel, Armani Prive, Dior and Versace Atelier, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture and even Elie Saab are drool-worthy labels which continue to provide lots of fancy duds for Hollywood stars, glossy magazines and us here at Fashion Doll Stylist.

Here are our top picks for clothes most likely to steer me (and hopefully you) to the sewing machine.

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

Barbie's Eye View: Summer '14 European Menswear Trends

The European menswear catwalk shows for Spring/Summer 2014 have just concluded, leaving some of us to ponder....will monsieur REALLY wear those outrageous clothes we saw in London, Paris and Milan?

Back in the day when I covered menswear collections for "Carnet d'Angeline," the shows were WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get): very wearable suits, sport coats, trousers, jackets and the like. Trends were found in the details. Single back vent or double. How the pants break over the shoe. And, of course, proportions (the size of the lapels, the width of the trousers, the length of the jacket). The most outrageous trend I covered was some designer who had featured six colors in the same outfit and lived to tell about!

In less than 10 years, the market has changed. With the arrival of hip hop and rock stars, gay pride and metrosexuals, casual Fridays... the 3-piece suit is dead and anything goes. Monsieur is quickly regaining his historical position as royal peacock.

However, this being Europe, I must emphasize, the catwalk is used for effect to send a loud message about upcoming trends. Look for lots of graffiti, urban art prints and ethnic patterns splashed over tops, shorts, sweaters, pants and even coats. No, we don't expect guys to wear the catwalk looks. However, don't be surprised to see colorful T-shirts, casual wear and maybe even a "paint spattered" or "grafittied" jeanswear next summer.

Normally, my mission here on FDS, is not to create clothes for male dolls. However, given the nature of the market these days, I may just change my mind! (Two Ken dolls have made their way to my house, offering me the shirt off their plastic backs to make some fun stuff for them.)

In the meantime, we decided to send the "girls" to the men's shows to see what they might be tempted to steal out of Ken's closet. It's an exercise we call, "men's into womenswear." Women's garments inspired by menswear. This is, still another, great source of ideas for both doll sexes. Quite naturally, my (girl) dolls thoroughly enjoyed the most outrageous collections and found LOTS of things they wouldn't mind adapting to their own mode of dress.

Scribble print achieved with a textile marker on cotton in the doll-sized version.

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

Hand painted graffiti print on silk.

(Next up: The dolls hit the catwalks at the Fall/Winter 2013-14 Haute Couture, currently on Paris!)