Ken's Eyeview: Fall '14 European Menswear Trends Part I

Menswear season is in full swing and guess what...the guys are back in action! In this first of two summaries, we take a look at key looks for next Fall/Winter 2014 appearing on the runways of London and Milan.

CROSSROADS

In London, designers relied primarily on what they are know for best best: classic sport coats, suits and casual gear. We did, however, find a few standouts. The supersized silhouettes that invaded the US last year look particularly sharp and modern when cut from monochromatic plaids and stripes. These are garments requiring very few pattern pieces which is easily translated to the proportions of the doll.

SOUTH OF THE BORDER

 This is the year of the horse and as such, warm Mediterranean colors (particularly in the brown/russet and green range of palettes) are favored. But what really makes this look is the addition of blanket sized shawls tossed over the shoulders and in the case of Philipp Plein, belted at the waist.

SHORT CUTS

For early Autumn, shorter lengths in jackets look particularly sharp. From slim and sleek narrow jackets that barely graze the hips to a wide, utilitarian silhouette falling just below the hips, this style of jacket is worn with traditional trousers or supersized pants.

IT'S A WRAP

Comfort and luxury.....this is about the easy look of a double breasted coat wrapped around the body and belted in place. The straight over coat also gets a "comfortable" edge when worn over wide slouchy trousers and a super long scarf.

SKIN FLICKS

There is lots of leather everywhere, usually cut in big, wide slabs for easy to wear urban coats. 

EASY RIDER

 Another strong look takes its direction from the streets. The classic biker jacket is super cool especially when worn with slip pants. Silhouettes here range from waist length shearling jackets to fitted racing suits in metallic leathers.

POLAR VORTEX

The recent Siberian weather patterns has sent designers back into the den and out again with fur coats for men. They are big and bold and sometimes in whimsical man-made variations.

MICHELIN MAN

These are not your father's quilted parkas. Super lightweight, the quilted coat comes in a variety of sizes and shapes. We also love the parka with cargo pockets and we also love the hoodie car coat cut from a plush fleece fabric.

FRACTURED IMAGES

Who says menswear has to be boring. The simple silhouette of the coats, jackets and trousers is given a contemporary edge when drenched with images or patterns. Okay...so this might not be something the average guy can wear everyday....but your Ken doll is no ordinary guy no?

Up next.....FDS heads to Paris where EVERYONE else is showing. Stay tuned!!!!!

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