Panting For More (VIDEO)



A tribute to the late Yves Saint Laurent whose Haute Couture pants suits were legendary.

We cannot even begin to imagine fashion without including trousers, a principle wardrobe staple. Jeans were created more an a century ago as a utility garment for women working on the farms. During World War II, women traded in their skirts and dresses for trousers as they replace men in the workplace and headed to the factories. However, thanks to legendary designers like Claire McCardell, the inventor of American sportswear and  French Couturier, Yves Saint Laurent, known for introducing trousers to the world Haute Couture, that this garment has become an essential wardrobe staple.

Actresses Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn were also ambassadors to the cool, groovy look of this men's into womenswear trend. Your fashion doll can have the same allure.

The pants sloper and pattern featured here is designed to produce a classic straight legged trouser that can be cut from all types of fabric. The doll's pants in these pictures are cut from a crepe fabric, which explains why it fits and hangs quite so well.

You begin much in the same manner as you did with the skirt sloper. A rectangle of fabric is taped to the doll with the grain falling perpendicular. The fabric should extend from the center front line to the center back line, inasmuch as this is a 1-piece pants pattern. Next, fit the fabric to the bottom mid-point of the doll. Cut a curve so that you can fit this snugly. Mark the CF and CB of the doll. Create a front dart on the quarter mark. Create a back dart on the quarter mark in the back. Pin the leg, keeping your line from the knees down straight (perpendicular) to the floor.

Mark the side line. Next, I pin the inner seam and check the fit. Adjust if necessary. Your draped pattern should resemble the image.

Next, trace the pattern onto Bristol paper.

For the pattern you will need to add your seam allowance AND...a flap to the center front or center back (depending on your style). This is to allow for the closure. Here, I have added it to the back. Remember to mark "Front" and "Back" on your sloper.

This pattern will not allow you to make flared pants. For that you will have to create your pants in two pieces. The procedure is the same for creating the normal skirt sloper.

As far as the waistband for this pattern as well as for that of the skirt, I prefer using ribbon instead of creating the usual waistband. Most of the time the waistband will be hidden under some other garment or a belt. What is important is that it should fit as close to the body as possible. Cut the length of ribbon while the doll has the skirt or pants on to ensure the length is correct. Stitch in place by hand. You can top stitch with the machine afterwards. Turn up the hem and glue in place.

The 1-pc trousers is worn with the 1-pc camisole and a simple faux fur stole.

Looking for a traditional 2pc trouser sloper. Here is a video tutorial to show you how:

Content & Photos: © Fashion Doll Stylist 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.