Flaky Pastry

My dolls are looking forward to summer parties. So I thought, this would be the perfect time to explore another one of my favorite fun fabrics...Crystal Polyester. Also known as Polyester Organza, it's the kind of fabric that when wrapped around the shoulders of dolly, it instantly transforms any dress into high fashion drama. It is a sheer, sometimes iridescent, material with a natural "bounce," and the best thing.....it's pretty inexpensive!!!

A few seasons ago, there were a few dresses on Alexandre Vaultier's Haute Couture catwalk that I felt lent themselves to this fabric. And so with this post...which admittedly is a tad bit long (but filled with pictures)...I show you just a few of the many things you can do with this marvelous material. Think pastry.....with light and flaky layers that curl, that puff up and float effortlessly!!!

But first let's start with something really easy. How about an evening wrap that looks as though it floated down from the heavens.

 Creating this is easy.

1. Create a tube by cutting a length of fabric and fold it in half. Stitch along the top.
2. Turn right side out and press so this seam is now runs down the middle.  Using the center seam as a guide, make a running stitch down the middle.
3. Gather by pulling the lower thread on one side, then on the other.
4. Adjust so that the gathers are fairly even.
5. You can take a small strip of fabric or a narrow ribbon and sew it along the gathers. This will help to stabilize the gathers and it provides a way to close the shawl.
6. Dolly can wear it as is, but I wanted the poufs to overlap, so with tiny, random stitches, I tack the poufs together in a few spots.

 

From front to back, Olympia shows you the final result. Super simple! Super dramatic!

 

 

But you came looking for French pastry so let's indulge in a buttery yellow delight. Shakira's "millefeuille" marigold dress is easier that it looks. It's a great project for a rainy day that with its many layers requires a bit of patience. This dress is completely made by hand. Take your time. It's worth the work!

 



In my last post, I showed an alternative method to finishing the edges of polyester fabric with a flame. For this exercise, the flame sometimes curled the edges which adds to the look. Don't worry about trying to be perfect. Don't beat yourself over any "mistakes." The more "organic" it looks, the better!

We begin by making a foundation garment or a sheath dress (though you can make any basic garment you want). Chose a color close to the color of your organza and choose thread that matches perfectly as well. Cut 1 to 1 1/4" (22-30cm) strips of organza on the diagonal. Don't measure. Estimate. The strips will be somewhat irregular which is what you want. One by one, bit by bit, holding each strip with two hands, quickly zip the edge past the bottom of the flame to seal the edges.

1. To start, I begin at the bottom of the dress.
2. The first strip begins and ends at the center back.
3. Another, somewhat longer strip is wrapped around the dress a few times, keeping each layer close together.
4. Here is how this looks at the back. At this point, you should hand stitch everything (using a back stitch).

5. I take another strip and pin from one side to the other.
6. Now this is when things get interesting. This time, instead of wrapping to the back, I loop it and pin back over to the other side.
7. Then loop back over and pinned in place back to the other side.

 8. With the extra, I make into a "curl" and pin in place. This is a good place to stop and stitch down your layers, thus far.
9. This is what my skirt looks like on one side.
10. Turn the dress to the back. Take another small strip and pin down, side seam to side seam.

 11. From here, you can use longer strips and simply loop back and forth from side seam to side seam. Again, stop and stich down.
12. End with a single layer. When clipping the strips, cut at an angle, and run a lit match quickly past the edge. If your strips aren't long enough. Don't worry. You can simply cut another piece and keep going. The whole point is to create the look of flaky, uneven layers! Note how I have stopped just shy of the waist.

 13. Now, let's go back to the top of the dress. Another strip is pinned near the neckline. Note how it extends a bit towards the back and has been cut at an angle.
14. I pin a second layer.
15. And a third.
16. Now because the inspiration for this dress has a curve in the layers, I curve each strip to one side and over the waist to the opposite side.

17. Adjust the layers, then stitch in place. You can keep doing this until everything is covered. Each layer will become progressively smaller.
18. If you see any space, you can always cut a tiny bit of the strip, fold in half and slide into the spot and stitch down.
19. Go to the side of the dress still exposed. Fold the other layers over so you can work better.
20. Begin to add more layers. Her I added a wide strip which covers this part of the dress and pushes the other layers to the front.

21. You can add another layer. The important thing is to cover the foundation completely.
22. Turn the dress to the back. I don't know what the back of the original dress looks like so I made the decision to keep things simple. I added strips which cover a complete side.
23. Same thing for the opposite side. When I stitch this down, I stop at the waist because I want to layers to curl upwards.
24. The back is closed with hooks and eyes. One tip: before you get too far with the back, stop to make sure the doll can get out of the dress. Make any adjustments before you finish adding the strips.

Like a gorgeous yellow rose, Shakira's dress is interesting from front to back.

I wanted to incorporate that same idea into a design for a jacket.

As a base, I used a simple basic (dartless) jacket. I decided to make my jacket from the same sheer fabric! Like this you don't have to worry about seeing the fabric beneath. You do see the stitches to some degree, but again, the organic nature of this look forgives all.
1. I sewed a strip that begins and ends at the center back after wrapping around the front and neck.
2. I sewed a second layer and then a third in the same direction.
3. Afterwards, there is a small space under the bust near the arm. I looped a tiny strip and stitched everything down.

I didn't do anything at the back because I like the idea of the seeing the doll's back through the jacket. On the other hand, I took a bit of the fabric and wrapped it a couple times around the hem of the sleeve as a cuff.

If this is going too far over your head, we can do something much more simple!

 1. I cut the strapless sheath from two layers of crystal polyester. But for the opera coat, the pattern couldn't be any more simple.

1. Lay the doll down with her arms outstretched. Draw a T shape around her
2. This is your pattern. Top part of the T cut on the fold of the fabric. Cut a slit on the top and a vertical opening down the front.
3. Sear the edges and you're ready to go.

4. Okay, so here is my kimono.
5.  Cut up a few scraps. This can be random. Or you can plan shapes if you like. For this exercise, I've simply cut a few squares and seared the edges.
6. Pick each scrap up and form into a ball.

7. Pin onto the robe.

8. Continue until you are happy. I decided to keep the interest on the shoulders, so I stopped here.

7. Put the robe on the doll and adjust the poufs until you are happy with the look. Then tack each pouf down with a few stitches wherever you have placed a pin.

And here we are. Nadia shows off this spectacular look from front to back.

If you fell in love with the simple kimono, you can simply use the pattern for an understated look. We can also decide to stich down the arms and sides without cutting away the rest of the fabric. Here, Liu wears a short version of our kimono, this time cut from a glitter organza.
The pattern is the same as the red kimono, but shorter.

The dotted line shows where we sewed after allowing for the neck and center front cut. I added a small strip around the neckline which ties into a bow around the neck.

You can even get more simple!

 Stephani shows off a simple evening coat that can be worn over a simple black dress or something more "couture." It's a big rectangle of organza folded in half. I wrapped it around the doll's arms in the front then made hand stitches to form "sleeves" of sort. In the back I pinched it into giant asymmetrical folds at the back. There are no rules. There is no right or wrong way to do this. Simple drape into something vaguely interesting and stitch to hold your creativity in place.

No matter how you turn her, she looks fabulous. The best thing....it's one of those looks that is super easy, not expensive and can be done in minutes!

A rose by any name.

All images and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2016. Please do not reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.


Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/FashDollStylist
We're also on Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/FashDollStylist
Come show us your stuff on Instagram: www.instagram.com/fashiondollstylist

Puff Dolly & the Quilted Northerns

Anyone living in the temperate zone knows that winter is not far away. In fact, if you're in the U.S. it arrived a bit early. Here in Paris, we are having one if the mildest November's on record. But still, the temperatures have started to dip and the Parisians are out en masse, with their "doudounes:" parkas, bomber jackets and quilted coats.

I have wanted to do this post since last year. However, I could not find quilted material scaled to the doll's proportions. I finally found a quilted material in just the right (doll) scale at "Reine" one of the Marché St. Pierre's big fabric stores. Chances are you won't be so lucky, so let me share my idea.

Typically, the stitching marks off square inches (25mm). Cut off the amount of fabric you need for your complete outfit. Then stitch midway in between the squares! I will warn you that this material--consisting of two layers--was not the easiest to manipulate. Also, you might want to add a bit more ease in your patterns for a looser fit.

For the parka, I used the basic jacket/coat pattern. Click here for the draft. I added a hood. You'll find it here. I added elastic at the waist on the inside of the jacket. First the elastic to fit the doll's waist. Pin each end to the opening of the jacket. Find the midpoint of the jacket and that of the elastic and pin. Now stretch the elastic in between the pins and pin again. I made two rows of stitches. Stretch the elastic as you sew so it lays flat against the jacket and stitch in place. I used hook & eyes to close and a bit of fur to trim the hood.

Here's what this looks like front to back.

The quilted coat uses the same pattern but in a longer length. I also applied a stand up collar.

Use a single strip of fabric the width of the neckline + 1/4" (3mm) by 1-1/4" (30mm) long. Stitch to neckline then topstitch. (A)

Turn down and stitch the opening of the coat from the edges of the collar to the hem. Clip out a square where the collar will fold over itself (B). This is to eliminate bulk. Topstitch. If you have done this correctly, the collar will cover slightly the seam where it meets the neckline on the inside of the coat (C). Topstitch. I used a snap (size 1) to close the collar and hooks & eyes (size 1) to close the coat.

The bomber jacket was made using the bodice sloper. Ignore the darts. (Before proceeding, stop and make the hood.) Drop the armhole by 1/4" (3mm). Square off the sides and bottom as shown.

This jacket has raglan sleeves. Draw a curved line from the middle of the armhole to the middle of the neckline. Label the points as shown. Cut off and place to the side. Now, extend the CF by 1/2" (12mm). Repeat on the back sloper, being careful to label the points as shown. Cut away. Finally, take your sleeve pattern and place those shoulder bits against the top, placing each one's armhole against the top of the sleeve on each side of the center seam. (Be sure to note the front and back of your sleeve so that you'll attach it correctly to the jacket.) Note there is a dart at the top of the sleeve.



Add seam allowance.

Exceptionally, stitch the sides of the jacket first. Then stitch the dart, then the underarm seam of the sleeve. Match the fronts to backs, right side to right side and stitch together.

For the knit trim, I cut off a cuff from a sock the width of the doll's lower waist. You can also take a bit of thin knit and fold in half. Close up the ends with stitches.

Just as you did with the elastic, stretch the knit and pin to the bottom of the jacket. Stretch flat to the jacket as you stitch in place. Use a hook & eye to hold closed.

This is what this looks like front to back.

Leave as is or add fur trim around the hood and cuffs. By the way, Joan's got matching spats.

The men's jacket uses a basic jacket pattern. To give this a bit more bulk; I straighted the lines at the side so that the jacket doesn't hug the silhouette. I've added a stand up collar in the same fashion as I did for the woman's coat. You're probably noticing how the sleeves have extensions at the hem. This is because Xavier is my first FR Homme doll and I miscalculated the length of his arms!! He's also more muscular than Ken which is why the sleeves are fitting him somewhat tight. Xavier has matching mocassins which, when I get this pattern a bit more pefected, I'll share with you later.



Keep warm!

Don't feel like using elastic? The belt the jacket for the same look!

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

We're also on Pinterest: pinterest.com/FashDollStylist



All images and text by Fashion Doll Stylist.





- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

April Showers

At long last, winter is finally over!!!! But with Spring, comes the rain.....And we all know our dolls do not like to get wet. So.... Let's celebrate the month of April with rain gear, all the while....singin' in the rain!

Many of the projects on this blog can be transformed into suitable rainy weather clothing. After all, we've already explored basic coats, jackets and capes. The only thing really different here is the material....shiny vinyl. You could also use nylon, oilcloth....or, if you're really on a budget....heavy duty garbage bags! To make things a tad more interesting this time around, I'd like to start by introducing you to the raglan sleeved coat.

While a regular sleeve is just fine, the raglan sleeve simply gives you another design option. In World War I, these sleeves were used in infantry men's trench coats because they afforded ease of movement. In full size clothing, they are also much easier to sew than regular set-in sleeves.

I begin with the basic coat, to which I've added a bit of flair at the sides. Before we begin to manipulate this pattern, it is best to create your coat facing now. I don't like bulkiness, particularly on the shoulders, so I have combined the back facing with that of the front by adjoining them along the shoulder line as shown in my draft. That way the facing seam will be at the back which, for me, is less problematic.

Let's go back to the neckline of the coat. Note the width of the neckline of the Front Coat and mark 1/4 of the width over from the shoulder. That will be point "A." Next, note the length of the armhole and mark 1/16th of an inch (about 2mm) down from its mid point. That will be point "B." The shoulder armhole tip is point "C" and the shoulder neckline tip is "D." Connect point A to point B with a straight line across the body (indicated in green). Now draw an arc that rises 1/16" from the center of the line between A and B. That line will be the new "style" line. (You can now disregard the straight line.)

Repeat for the back. The point 1/4 down on the neckline (away from the shoulder) will be point "E." The point 1/16" (2mm) just down from the center armhole point will be point F. "G" will be the shoulder armhole point and "H" will mark the shoulder neckline tip. Again, draw a straight line between E and F. Draw an arc which bends 1/16" up from the middle of this line. Now cut or trace those two shoulder wings, taking care that all of the points are labeled.

Attach back to back and front to front, joining point G on the back to point C of the front at the midpoint of the sleeve. Each will be placed at a about a 15-degree angle from the top of the sleeve. The curved bottoms of the wings are then aligned to touch the curve of the sleeve cap. Each piece will then form a "V" shape at the top of the sleeve cap as shown in the above illustration.

After you have cut away the shoulder wings, you will be left with the rest of the coat pattern. Add seam allowance to the front and back coat pattern. The shoulder wings are now part of the sleeve shape. Add seam allowance all around including the "V" shape which is now a large dart. When you begin to assemble your coat, sew the dart on the sleeve first. Then attach to the body of the coat as usual.

Note: When sewing with vinyl, tape the pattern to the fabric or pin within the seam allowance. Same thing when you put the pieces together. Pin within the seam allowance or tape together. Remember, once you puncture the vinyl or plastic, the hole is there forever. Most vinyl has a cloth backing which facilitates machine sewing. However, if you use a plastic or vinyl without the backing and experience problems, tape a bit of tissue paper to the underside, then sew.

If you are tempted to press the seams, always use the coolest setting on the iron, and then protect the vinyl with paper towel. And, be sure to use a somewhat larger stitch. If the stitch length is too small, it will rip.

A rain slicker is one of the quick and easy ways to protect dolly from a sudden cloud burst. This is another version of the cape which is really quick and easy to make. And, I've added a hood....after all, it is raining!!!

Draw a line that forms a 90-degree angle. Take the front and back sloper and place them shoulder tip to shoulder tip, angling the back sloper so that it is 90 degrees perpendicular from that of the front sloper. Between the two shoulder tips, make a diagonal line which half way between the two shoulder tips.

Now trace the neckline and shoulder line of the back sloper, then along the diagonal line. Draw in the hemline. Repeat for the front sloper, tracing the neckline and shoulder line before tracing along the same diagonal line. Voila! The only other thing I've added was seam allowance and a hood.

 

I had no problems stitching the garbage bag plastic with my sewing machine. I did try to use glue for the hem, but it did not stick for long. So I used it to "baste" and then topstitched everything down. (Like many of the mass market rain slickers on the market, this is not really a garment built to last!)

One more thing.....for those moments when dolly is out and about and she didn't think to take along that wonderful new rain slicker you just made for her..... Make sure, inside of her purse  is a.....rain bonnet!

For this I used plastic from a ziplock food storage bag. I measured the front of the doll's head from side to side for the proper width of my bonnet. The length will be as deep as you want it to be. My cut square was 7x7" (18x18 cm). I fold the plastic back and forth into accordion pleats(about 5/8" (8mm), using my fingernail to crease as I go. When you have completely folded the square into one strip, you can wrap it with paper towel and then with the lowest setting on your iron, press the strip. This will help set the pleats. However, be VERY careful not to melt the plastic while your doing this.

Now, fold each edge under and pierce with a large safety pin or needle. Attach a brad AND a small length of ribbon. (I've used a bit of ribbon from Chanel No.5 Packaging!) Not exactly your grandmother's rain bonnet!!!!

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

All images and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2014. Please do not reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.