Tuesday, December 17, 2013
I grew up in the American Midwest where winters were sometimes brutal. Yes, there were those romantic snowy, white Christmases, but after the holidays the bitter sub-zero (F) temperatures settled in. Once the temperatures near the zero mark (-17C) or dipped below, no cloth coat could keep us warm. Even mother's fur coats were not warm enough. For those temps we pulled out the heavy artillery.....our shearling coats!!!!
This jacket was made using the man's shirt pattern as a base. I held the pattern against the doll to check for the length of jacket I want.
You could overlap the edges the way we did with the leather garments. However, I chose to make a typical "bomber" jacket, so the decision was made to assemble my garments the same way as a regular cloth jacket. Be sure to use moderately long stitches. Stitch twice to ensure the stitches won't pull away.
Now add the collar. The collar will be the measurement that extends from the mid-point of the front lower collars, as well as the back neckline. You decide how big or narrow you want your collar. The one featured on the jacket is 1 1/4-inch high. You cannot baste, neither can you pin. You will need to tape down the collar. It is attached to the inside of the jacket and folded over the neckline.
Since I did not have access to doll sized zippers and cannot use snaps, hooks or Velcro, I decided to design my jacket to close with buttons that actually work. I used "brads" (attaches Parisiennes). Tape the jacket closed, then plan where you will place your buttons. I used a heavy safety pin to pierce a hole, then poked the brads through the left side. The brad should be somewhat loose.
I cut tiny rectangles of the leather for the pocket flaps. Cut away the fleece and glue each one in place. Now measure around the hips of the doll wearing the jacket and cut a narrow strip of the leather to make a belt. Turn the bottom of the sleeves up into small cuffs. I've always turn back the center front edge to expose the wool on the front of the jacket.
Sissilie's coat is made in exactly the same manner. For her coat, I used the basic jacket pattern created from the basic bodice (minus the darts). I lengthened the original jacket then extended the front by 3/4-inch from the Center Front line. I also wanted a very full collar. Using the technique for the "designed collar" we employed for the Redingote, I create my front coat pattern piece. The coat back and sleeve are unchanged. The buttons and buttonholes are created as described above.
For the pocket, I turn down the edge, then shaved away some of the wool of the inside pocket. Glue in place. Again, the sleeves are turned up into self-cuffs.
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